Two recent incidents in Sichuan province that left six foreign mountain climbers missing and presumed dead have underscored to the public the dangers in adventure climbing.

Survival chances for the missing foreign mountaineers are very slim, an official said yesterday.

Last year's earthquake changed the landscape of some mountains, making mountaineering perilous in Sichuan province, said Lin Li, secretary-general of the Sichuan Mountaineering Association.

In the first incident, two Russian climbers were buried in an avalanche last Wednesday on Siguniang Mountain, whose peak is 6,250 m above sea level, in the Aba Tibetan autonomous prefecture.

Then on Oct 17, four Hungarian climbers started scaling Renzhong Mountain, whose summit is 6,079 m above sea level, in the Ganzi Tibetan autonomous prefecture.

Their plans were to return to the camp 3,100 m above sea level on Oct 31 so they could go to Chengdu, capital of Sichuan, on Nov 4. They were to leave China to return to their home country on Nov 5, but they did not show up on Oct 31.

Sichuan has more than 200 mountains between 4,000 and 7,000 m above sea level. Many of the mountains have complicated geological structures and the weather can change quickly, which makes mountaineering difficult and sometimes dangerous.

Soil on many of the mountains is loose in the aftermath of the magnitude-8.0 earthquake on May 12 last year.

All these factors bring danger, but also have a strong appeal to overseas climbers wanting a challenge, Lin said.

Since 2007, more than 1,000 overseas climbers scaled mountains in Sichuan after seeking permits from Lin's association.

With the permits, the association provides liaison officers and interpreters. Because the climbers have reported their routes to the association in their application for the permits, the association has provided aid in times of trouble, Lin said.

But many overseas climbers have climbed the mountains without applying for permits. Between July and August this year, 150 overseas climbers did so in the province.

Ferris Wheel Charge Dropped

A charge of false imprisonment against Patrick Joyce who climbed to the top of Belfast's big wheel was dropped on October 15, 2009.

Patrick Joyce, a Traveller, is still charged with trespassing and disorderly conduct. The 38-year-old had been accused of falsely imprisoning people trapped on the Ferris wheel when he climbing to the top in June.

An attorney alleged that Mr. Joyce may suffer from mental illness.

Traveler Community Film: “Traveller Girl”

Pavee Lackeen tells the story of Winnie, a ten year old Irish Traveler girl, who lives with her mother and siblings in a ramshackle trailer on the side of the road in a desolate industrialized area of Dublin. The film follows Winnie through several weeks of her life as she struggles for her identity as a young Traveler girl in contemporary Ireland. Winnie fills her time wandering through the run-down shops and stalls of Dublin's inner city, while her mother Rosie struggles to get her family housed by the local council.

Pavee Lackeen presents an unflinching portrait of a marginalized community often living in Third World poverty in a modern, prosperous Ireland. Filmed with a cast of mostly non-professionals, the film uses Travelling people playing characters near to their own and finding the core of the story in their own life experiences.

The Travelling people of Ireland maintain a culture and language which sets them apart from the rest of the population, and have been the victims of much misunderstanding and prejudice that continues to this day. Shattering existing stereotypes, Pavee Lackeen presents an intimate portrait of a resilient and spirited young girl and her proud, dignified family struggling day by day against faceless bureaucracy, poverty and prejudice.

Watch the trailer here: Traveller Girl

Iran Arrests Hikers – Armed with Trail Mix

Ian Kelly, State Department Spokesman, Daily Press Briefing

Washington, DC, November 9, 2009, TRANSCRIPT: 1:15 p.m. EST

QUESTION: Ian, the three Americans in Iran, the hikers, can you confirm that they have been charged with espionage by Iranian authorities?

MR. KELLY: Well, actually we haven’t received official confirmation that they’ve been charged, and we are continuing to seek information about these press reports. If it is true, that they have been formally charged, we would find this outrageous, and of course, the families would find it devastating. And I think you also heard what the Secretary said a little earlier today: “We believe that there is no evidence for these kinds of charges. We renew our request on behalf of these three young people and their families that the Iranian Government exercise compassion and let them return to their families.” We will continue to make that case, both publicly and privately, through our Swiss protecting power in Tehran.

QUESTION: Are you seeking consular access to the three Americans?

MR. KELLY: Our – the Swiss protecting power, the Swiss Embassy in Tehran, is constantly asking for consular access. And we hope that the Iranian authorities will grant that. END

PETITION from http://freethehikers.org/

Please sign our petition for their release, which we intend to deliver to the Islamic Republic of Iran’s Mission to the United Nations:

We, the undersigned, respectfully ask the Government of the Islamic Republic of Iran to release Shane Bauer, Sarah Shourd and Josh Fattal from detention as soon as possible and allow them to return home to their families. As an immediate step, we appeal to you to allow Shane, Sarah and Josh to speak with their families, in order to ease the worry of their loved ones.

On July 31, 2009, Shane, Sarah and Josh were hiking near the Ahmed Awa waterfall in Iraqi Kurdistan when news reports say they mistakenly crossed the unmarked border into Iran. Since then, they have been detained in Iran and have had no contact with their families.

Shane, Sarah and Josh were in Iraqi Kurdistan on a hiking vacation and had no intention of entering Iran. They all have great respect for different cultures and societies and for the law. If they did enter Iran, it can only have been by accident.

The families, friends and supporters of Shane, Sarah and Josh share the deep hope that the Islamic Republic of Iran will show compassion in this unfortunate case and release them as soon as possible.

Ladakh Opens Nubra Valley to Tourists

In a major move to boost tourism in Ladakh region, the Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India, has relaxed the Protected Area Permit Regime (PAPR) enabling foreign tourists to visit Turtuk village in Nubra valley, situated on the famous Silk Route.

Expressing happiness over the decision, Minister for Tourism and Culture, Mr. Nawang Rigzin Jora and Minister of State for Tourism, Mr. Nasir Aslam Wani said that opening of Turtuk area for foreign tourists would place Nubra valley prominently on the world tourism map. They added that the decision would go a long way in bringing the virgin locales of the region into limelight. The Ministers also appreciated the role of Union Home Minister, Mr. P. Chidambaram for taking personal interest in this matter.

Referring to the potential tourist spots in the region, Mr. Jora said that from now on tourists would be able to travel along the banks of the Pangong Lake, right up to the villages of Man and Merak. Earlier, he said they were allowed to go only up to village Spangmik. He said the route along the Pangong Lake from Merak to Chushul and then across Tsaga La, Tsaga to Loma Bend would also be considered for opening, once sufficient tourist infrastructure is developed there. A large number of foreign tourists are already visiting Nubra valley for Bactrain camel safaris and hot sulphur springs of Panamik, he added

The Minister said that the long pending demand of the locals of Kargil to open the Chiktan-Batalik area for foreign tourists has also been approved by the Home Ministry. The approved tour circuits in the district are, Kargil-Khangral-Shaker-Chiktan-Sanjak-Leh and Dah-Garkone-Darchik-Batalik-Silmo-Kargil town, he informed and added the area is also the home of famous Drokpas, supposed to be pure Aryan tribe. Earlier, the tourists were allowed to travel only up to Dah, he said.

Giving details of the other important relaxations, Mr. Jora said that earlier tourists were allowed to travel in the PAPR area in groups of four, but after the present relaxation tourists can also go in twos. He said permits for visiting these areas are issued by the concerned Deputy Commissioner.

Giving details of tourists traffic to Ladakh, the Minister said the number of tourists visiting the region has touched 75, 000 from the modest figure of 500 in 1974, when Ladakh was opened for tourism and the tourist season which used to be confined to July-August, now extends from May till end of October.

Rock and Ice Rebuts Criticism – Jeff Jackson

Hi everyone,

I edit Rock and Ice along with Alison, Andrew and Duane, and just heard about this thread. Some great stuff here. It's often difficult to get people to give you constructive criticism. Most of the letters we receive are positive, but what we really need to hear are legit critiques of the mag so that we can continue to evolve and improve. So thanks for the spirited critique, you can bet I'll mull over everything that's been written here.

I think that some of the posts are on the money. I've been reading climbing mags since 1977, when I took up the sport, and it always bums me out when I see duplicated coverage, such as what happened with Washington in No. 182. We try not to let that happen, and Matt (Climbing's editor) and I will talk to each other if we see a potential conflict. We've managed to avoid this on several occasions. I climb with Michael (Alpinist editor) every Wednesday, so we can discuss potential overlap, but Alpinist and RI are different breeds of cat. Sometimes it happens, though, and I apologize.

While on the subject, and in the spirit of dialog, I should point out that several of posts seem a bit bogus.

Amfibius, I've talked to all of the editors here and no one deleted your post. Weird. We really never delete posts unless they're ads or obscene. Did you include a photo of your ass or johnson [sic]?

Forest, you might want to take a look at RI if you're interested in reading stories by John Long. Features by Largo appeared in our September and October issues this year and he's working on a story for an upcoming issue.

Dingus, I believe I gave you your nickname in a response to a letter you wrote to a climbing mag, so don't suggest you never got nuthin' from the rags.

Sully, we've never run the same article as a competing mag and we never will.

Ihateplastic, I simply don't believe that an RI editor didn't know who Bob Bates was. Everyone here not only knows Bob Bates, but knows his history of ascents as well as the history of his cohorts in the famous Harvard Five, etc. Bates and Houston are heroes of mine. Alison was actually friends with Bob.

Prezwoodz you know that I got back to you immediately regarding your Arrigetch story. I told you that it was a story that RI would be interested in printing, but that by posting it along with all your photos on Supertopo we would be doing our readership a disservice by DUPLICATING coverage. That's the point, right?

Finally, amfibius, it seems a little schizoid to suggest in no uncertain terms that "the biggest issue" for you is running the "same sh#t," [sic] yet at the same time suggest that we should duplicate coverage from two months previous. I agree that Bachar deserves utmost ink and respect. In the "Bachar Remembered" issue we included articles by DR, Henry Barber, Dave Yerian and Doug Robinson. I wrote about him in my Editor's Note and we would have loved to have put John on the cover, as we did in No. 166. In fact, we madly solicited images, but were unable for a variety of reasons beyond our control to secure cover photos that would work. We always work within a tight shipping schedule, and that limits the time we have. Plus, its paramount that all our content is fresh and professional [Ed. like this post].

Obviously, the folks who post here represent a certain slice of our readership. AB, in response to this thread, wrote in an e-mail, "I've said it before ... they're Willfully Blind. You can't change their opinions because their opinions/online comments are the very structures these Avatar personas have created for themselves as hardcore/old-school/trad climbers ... "

Is that really the case? Judging from the fact that so many of y'all admit with pride to not reading RI, yet confidently malign the mag despite not reading it, so often getting your facts wrong, I have to wonder whether Andrew might be right. The posts here are clubbish and uniformed, coming from a clique of climbers who, like Ron, have a clear agenda. I personally know several of the posters and they are old, crotchety, crusty dudes who don't actually climb much anymore except to lap classics, usually trad and well-wired 5.11s or under. Kinda like me.

Yet despite the obvious limitations in the feedback, I value it and will continue to sift the hyperbole, insults, profanity and bunk in hopes of improving Rock and Ice. In fact, if you don't like what you're reading, please write a letter to the editor, or better yet, take the bull by the horns and submit a story. We are always looking for great content and photos, and will closely read and comment on all serious submissions.

I sincerely hope you will read the mag, and continue to bluntly confront us with our ineptitude when we get it wrong, and acknowledge our occasional flashes of utility when we get it right.

Happy and safe climbing. I hope to see you out there ... Jeff Jackson

November 19, 2009

[from: www.supertopo.com]

Harvard Travel Club Features Conrad Anker

Articles

Mammoth Cave – KY, USA by Peter Zabrok

I've been climbing for thirty years, climbed El Cap by 39 different routes, and the other day, I caught possibly the raddest and scariest lead climbing fall I've ever seen! And it happened several miles underground.

I'm part of the group exploring the Mammoth Cave System in Kentucky, working in the Roppel Cave section which lies outside the national park boundaries, and hence outside their regulations. We have excellent landowner relations, and have access to the cave on a regular basis. All entrances are gated and locked, so it's not the sort of place anyone can go, but if you are interested in joining the survey, please give me a shout. We gate the entrances to protect the resource. For instance, we discovered this passage a few years ago, and named it the Great White North for all the gypsum flowers.

Gypsum Flowers in the Great White North – like take off, eh?

For about the past year, we've been working in a "new" part of the cave – the Astrodome-Cosmodrome area – that hadn't been visited much since its initial discovery about 25 years ago. With my caving partner Dick Market, and also with the help of others, we first went out there last December with the intention of establishing an underground base camp a few miles underground.

Caves are formed by water dissolving limestone, and water – COLD water – is something you need to get used to, if not even enjoy. The temperature in this Kentucky cave system is 54F year round. Most of us wear waterproof coveralls with layers of polypro, but not Dick, who is usually perfectly warm in nothing more than a cotton-poly “work shirt”.

Dick in Black River – the Route to Cave Camp

Swiftly Flowing Water in Black River after a Thunderstorm

Black River has some really beautiful sections, including this bit you see above, which you tramp through just before you reach a huge cross-passage at Grand Junction. From Grand Junction, you turn right and follow Upper Elysian Way, which starts out perhaps thirty feet wide by ten feet high, and gradually narrows to stooping and crawling.

Cow Piss Falls and a Long Section of Stoop-Walking in Upper Elysian Way

Nearby the area we’ve been working is Petrified Wood Passage, where there is this amazing hunk of “wood” sticking out of the wall. What happened, I think, is that the log was trapped in the limestone, it decayed and the void was filled with mud that hardened into chert, and then the limestone was dissolved to leave this cantilevered beam. Maybe you geologists know better.

Petrified Wood

The first thing we did was to resurvey an existing section of passage to our current standard, which is arguably the best in the world, to establish a "baseline" through this section of the cave. We do this the old fashioned way - with a tape measure, a compass, and an inclinometer. It's tedious and difficult, but precise and accurate when done correctly. We take both foresights and back sights, to check for blunders, and we calibrate our instruments each trip against a known standard. Instruments are different, one compass might read 100 degrees while another compass reads 102 degrees on the same shot, and the calibration increases the accuracy of the survey. Sunspot activity and other imponderables affect the earth's magnetic field, so the same compass might read a half-degree different on two given days, so we try to calibrate our instruments before every trip.

Each “survey shot” includes a distance, which is about as far as you can stretch your survey tape down the passage without it touching a wall. In a big honkin’ passage, you can fly through with fifty-footers. And in miserable little grot hole crawlways, you’re lucky if you get a six-footer. Overall, the shots average about fourteen feet these days. For each tape measurement, you need to also take a forward compass and forward inclination using two different instruments, and then you also have to repeat the shots in reverse to increase accuracy and check for blunders. It’s easy to make mistakes, but this built-in system helps reduce errors.

The old surveys were done in a hurry – people were more concerned with quantity rather than quality. The instruments weren’t calibrated; there were no back sights done on the inclination readings, and the sketches really sucked. In many places, the map that was drawn bore little resemblance to reality. We are in the process of fixing this.

Here's a sketch of existing passage that we resurveyed. I made this sketch, which is drawn, to scale with protractor and ruler, and from this a proper map can later be drawn:

Resurvey and Resketch of Upper-Level Cosmodrome

We attached our baseline resurvey to the room you see above – Cosmodrome – whose location had been pinpointed on the surface by using a cave radio, whereby a transmitter is brought into the cave, and a long-wave radio signal is beamed to the surface so the room can be located. So basically, we know where we are underground relative to the surface. An accurate resurvey from here allows you to know where you are, and helps you find new passage, or connect to existing passage.

Topo Overlay – Cosmodrome is the “blob” west of the “50”

Camp is where all the passages converge farther west

From our baseline, we began exploring new leads, one of which involved a significant bolt climb up the side of a dome. It took a couple trips for Dick to reach the top, but we discovered and surveyed perhaps 1500' of new passage up there, including a room about 60' long x 40' wide x 40' tall, big enough to fit several houses inside. Cool, eh? We found cave rats' nests up there - it's close to the surface - and these little guys had brought in all sorts of goodies, including a couple spent shotgun shells. So y’all don’t go messin’ with no cave rats!

Here's a shot of Dick doing his thing. In all my years of climbing, I have never placed a single lead bolt or rivet, because I consider it to be cheating. I did place one rivet on Native Son on El Cap after the flake I was hooking busted off, and I took a twenty-foot fall onto a duct-taped skyhook that miraculously held, and there was no other way to bypass the now-missing hook placement. But my ethics go all to hell underground. You can hide a lot in the dark.

Dick climbing out of Universal Dome

Dick's a pro. I would go anywhere anytime with Dick Market. He is the best cave climber I have ever met. He can shoot instruments like no other; he is tough as nails, bad to the bone, never gets cold, and never gives up, the best of the best. Don’t let his Kentucky drawl fool you, he is also one of the smartest engineers I have ever met. He makes the most incredible inventions and has the best ideas! He has put LED’s into his survey instruments to light them, he has a handmade hammer that folds up inside his pack, and he produced running water in my cave camp kitchen. This rating comes from the World’s Worst Engineer, yours truly. My ex-wife used to say that when it came to doing work around the house, I didn’t know which end of the hammer to hold. Funnily enough, I am rather deft with a piton hammer. I wonder how that is?

Caving is one of the few places – besides outer space – where you can actually "go where no man has gone before". Over the last year, we've discovered and surveyed about 9000' of new real estate, some of it huge as described above, and some of it just barely big enough to fit through. Crawling is a way of life when you're caving. So our objective when caving is to discover new passage, and survey it. It's somewhat analogous to making a first ascent and then drawing a topo.

Can you believe this bitchin’ passage was not surveyed? Woo-hoo!

Either you get it, or you don't. Like climbers, we are Conquistadors of the Useless. More people seem to get climbing than caving. Caving sure isn't for everyone. If you are in any way claustrophobic, you might prefer to view your mountains from the outside in, as a dear friend of mine recently said. And you have to love the mud.

"Life is like caving – you have to take the groveling with the pretties."

Now the thing about cave exploration is, eventually you achieve "diminishing returns to scale". This is because she's only a virgin passage once. As soon as you survey 'er, she ain't a virgin no more. So you have to find new stuff. And as you find more and more new, there is less and less to find.

A Virgin No More – Surveying one of our New Finds

The large-sized scallops on the wall indicate the passage was formed by slow-moving water

We are starting to run out of new passage to discover and survey, but not quite. There may be another mile of new discovery to get before it's time to pack up our camp and dismantle it. One thing about a multi-level cave like Roppel is that “anything can go anywhere anytime”. Have a look at this survey line plot, and you’ll see what I mean. It looks like a big bowl of spaghetti. We’ve added almost two miles to this area in the past year alone.

Line Plot Survey – a big bowl of spaghetti

Cross-Section of the Spaghetti In Roppel Cave, “anything can go anywhere anytime!”

There is yet another level above Dick’s Dome not shown

And by the way, we are STYLIN' when it comes to underground camping! Not quite as good as when I'm on the wall, but you know me well enough to realize we have all the comforts of home, within reason. Like running water and hot food and plush bivis, and even camp furniture! You gotta love our rock tables and chairs, just like the Flintstones. Everything we pack in, we pack out. There is no garbage pile.

Enjoying a hot cup of Roppel Coffee in Cave Camp

We’ve since added more furniture to accommodate a team of four

The black bag with spigot supplies running water in my “kitchen”

So on this most recent trip, we "drug" in the aid climbing gear, to climb a few of our last climbing leads. We try to climb clean whenever possible, slinging projections on the wall. But when it comes to smooth rock, sometimes the drill is the only way.

So here's what happened in this amazing aid climbing fall.

Dick was drilling his way up the wall, towards what appeared to be continuing new passage above. It's a cave, its dark, so you never really know if you're going to reach something until you actually get there. It's a bit of a crap shoot. Usually the climbs don't go, but every now and then you find something good, as mentioned above. We’ve made some fine discoveries by climbing in Roppel Cave.

Dick had drilled about half a dozen bolts, and then drilled the seventh hole. He placed the bolt (we use quarter-inch expansion bolts on lead, rivets are not so good on softer limestone) and then he clipped in his aiders with his adjustable daisy. His adjustable daisy is a piece of 7.8mm mountaineering half-rope, the same rope he leads with. We use this skinny lead rope when cave climbing, because it is lightweight and easier to carry into the cave. Thicker rope is too bulky. We are careful - if the rope gets damaged, we toss it.

Dick uses a Petzl Mini-Traxion with a hunk of 7.8mm rope to make his adjustable daisy. It works well, although he is not the best top-stepper I have seen. But he is tall, and his reach makes up for it.

So Dick was leading about thirty feet up, I was belaying with a Munter hitch, and I looked up to suddenly see Dick falling, along with a HUGE hunk of limestone! The wall had peeled, and down flew Dick! I can see in my mind's eye that the block is on the right, Dick is on the left, and the block is not going to hit me. My next recollection is that I'm airborne - yikes! I came to a rest five feet off the ground, with Dick upside-down next to me about six feet off the ground.

"Dick! Are you OK?? Dick!"

"Yeah, Ah'm OK. Lower me down, but slow! Ah wanna make sure ah’m not hurt."

I let out slack on the Munter, and we both landed in a heap on the floor of the cave.

“Why am ah so close to ground?”

“Well, I didn’t have any slack in the system, but you pulled me five feet in the air, plus the rope stretch.”

“Ah ain’t never pulled anyone off the ground before when I fell. And I ain’t never fallen upside-down before.”

We puzzled this a moment, and then it started to dawn on us. Lying next to us on the floor of the passage was the block that had peeled. I tried to lift it, and my best guess is that it was about a five-hundred-pounder. The amazing thing is that the bolt and hanger were facing upwards on the block, with Dick’s aiders still attached! What the……??

Then we looked at Dick’s harness, and saw that the adjustable daisy rope was shredded, and I do mean shredded. What must have happened was Dick came to a stop on the end of his lead rope but the block kept going until it weighted the adjustable daisy. The combined weight of Dick plus block then pulled me up off the floor of the cave. Once the force on the adjustable daisy rope reached about 5kN – a thousand pounds or so and the rated strength of most all toothed cam devices – the teeth cut the daisy-rope to leave Dick hanging in space and the block lying on the ground.

“That’s the worst fall ah’ve ever taken,” said Dick.

“Bloody good thing you hadn’t yet clipped in with your full-strength daisy or a carabiner, cuz if you did, you’d be lying on top of that block along with your aiders.” {shudder}

The things you see when you don’t have your camera, eh?

Dick had sustained a bit of a whack to the side of his helmet that rang his bell a bit, but fortunately not much else. By the next day, his whole left side was pretty sore, as more and more bumps and bruises made themselves known.

“All I remember is the block pushin’ down on my head, and me tryin’ to get out from under it. Usually when I’m drillin’ into bad rock, you can tell by the sound that it’s not solid, but there was no warnin’ this tahm.”

The remnants of rope that had formed Dick’s adjustable daisy were fried. The heat from the fall had dissipated into the cord, and cooked it into a twisted coil like a steel rebar in a fire. Dang.

A couple-three hours later, Dick was back in the saddle once again. He finished the climb by reaching the top of the dome, to find nothing but another blind pit behind. There was no hoped-for passage. Oh well, that’s cavin’.

We did, however, find a really cool shortcut in the cave, that would allow us to reach camp in about half the time but using a different entrance. The problem with the shortcut is that the passage is just big enough to fit through, and you are forced to lie in gloopy wet mud. If we were to come into the cave this way with big camp packs, it would be a miserable trip, and you’d end up coated in mud from head to toe. But it might be a viable way out of the cave. The two-mile survey loop closed with about forty feet of error.

When we got out of the cave yesterday, we simul-cracked our beers and Dick spoke his usual catchphrase: “We cheated death once again.”

Dick is the Fred Beckey of caving. He’s 69 years old this month, but looks about 50. And when I grow up, I want to be just like him.

There is at least one section of our route to camp that floods to the roof from time to time, as evidenced by the flood debris stuck to the ceiling. From what we can tell, this doesn't happen very often. The backlit photo of Black River [below] was taken after several inches of rain had fallen the day before, and that section of the cave doesn't really flood.

Plus, there is more than one route to where we're going. There are upper-level routes that are high and dry all the time, like Petrified Wood Passage for instance. While Petrified Wood is a pleasant stroll down a clean and dry walking passage, you have to go through a miserable little mud crawl that gets you slimed head to foot. So we usually take the lower-level route which follows the water, because it is easiest and cleanest. We get wet to the waist at one point, but by the time we reach camp we have steamed off pretty much. Plus the lower-level passage offers the easiest travel, with not too much crawling.

Now there are other parts of the cave that you really don't want to be in when it rains!

Photo of the south end of Roppel in Logsdon River.

It doesn't take a lot of rain to flood this place, that's for sure. What you see is what you get - for two frickin' miles! The passage is uniformly four feet high, that really annoying height that is too high to have to crawl, but too low to walk comfortably. So you stoop-walk for two miles! The water is anywhere from swimming depth to ankle deep.

One time we were down this river when it rained on the surface. We didn't check the weather forecast - our bad. When we finished what we were doing, we returned to the river, to find it flooded to the roof. We tried twice to get out, pushing the passage for a hundred feet or so starting with about six inches of airspace, down to that magic number of about 2 1/2 inches of airspace (nose to the roof, and don't make waves!) where you realize you're not gonna make it. We were soaked to the neck, of course, and had to retreat to higher ground, try to dry out, and wait it out without going hypothermic. We tried again eight hours later, got soaked once more, and then gave up. We were now well overdue, and our rescuers were aware that we were flooded in. "We might as well wait til they come get us, which they'll do as soon as the water drops." So we spent a cold night shivering, until we heard the shouts the next day of our first response team.

"Are you OK?"

"YES!"

"What do you need?"

"We need warm clothes, food, water and carbide!"

"We have all four!"

"Woo-hooooooo!"

Once we got out of the river, we could smell the hot coco wafting down the passage before we reached our "rescue crew".

We only go down the river if we know the forecast is good. If there is a chance of thunderstorms, we find another objective. You wouldn't want to camp down river, because you can't reliably predict the weather four days in advance. The response time of the river is fairly fast. The bad news is that if you're in that two-mile-long section and it thunderstorms, you're probably toast. The good news is that if you do get flooded in, like we did, the water level drops fairly quickly. I think we were only stuck 33 hours.

Sheesh.

by: Peter Zabrok

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/

Mountaineering Council of Scotland – Liability

The MCofS has been approached over the past year by a range of bodies who own land such as Local Authorities and Public bodies, enquiring about climbing that occurs on their land and their worries regarding their liability.

In response the MCofS has drafted up a “Statement of Participation” which it is hoped will allay their concerns by explaining what our sport actually involves and how we operate to a code of self reliance.

The statement outlines the full range of climbing activities (Traditional and Sport); the importance of the MCofS risk statement for putting up and documenting new climbs and liability for our own actions. It states that climbers must risk-assess everything from the quality of any fixed equipment (pegs, slings or bolts) to lose rock, to route descriptions and grades. Finally there are guidelines for the development of sport venues based upon previous consultations amongst climbers by the MCofS.

The statement also shows how our activities relate to the Land Reform Act and the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.

We invite climbers (members and non-members) to comment before the statement goes to the MCofS Board.

Read the statement at: Statement of Participation and reproduced below:

Scottish Climbing Code

MCofS Statement of Participation

Send comments direct to the Development officer, Kevin Howett at kev@mcofs.org.uk

CLIMBING DISCIPLINES

The MCofS supports and represents all climbing disciplines in Scotland:

Bouldering

Adventure Climbing

Sport Climbing

Winter Snow and Ice Climbing

Winter Mixed Climbing

Winter Sport Mixed Climbing

The MCofS recognizes that the adventurous ethic of traditional climbing is important to Scotland, historically and in the future, and is highly regarded across the world. The MCofS therefore adopts a code of good practice to maintain this adventure ethic, whilst allowing the development of other climbing disciplines.

The following two styles are identified. These are regarded as distinct and not combined in a mixed manner on a single climb. There is further good practice guidance to climbers for the selection of suitable venues for trad and sport styles.

Traditional Style:

The use of leader placed / second removed protection, also called ‘natural protection’. It includes the use of hammer-placed pegs as well as slings left in-situ. The style is often referred to as ‘adventure’ climbing. The use of hammer-placed protection (pre-placed or placed on-sight) is agreed to be a last resort and should be avoided if at all possible as they degrade quickly.

Sport Style:

The use of in-situ protection from bolts: bolts are used for the production of fully equipped climbs and would not be used on climbs or cliffs regarded as adventurous terrain.

PERSONAL RESPONSINBILITY

In regard to all styles and disciplines of climbing, it is the ethic of the sport (supported by the MCofS) that all climbers take responsibility for their own actions. The MCofS Participation Statement makes this clear:

“The MCofS recognises that climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement”

The participation statement relates to both those ‘developing’ new climbs and those ‘repeating’ climbs.

Participation and Sport Development:

The development (production) of all styles of climb is conducted by climbers themselves. It is not organised or regulated. The MCofS is not a governing body in this respect, but represents the views of climbers regarding their activity. The individual climber assesses the risks of producing a new climb, including the quality of any fixed protection.

Participation and Documentation of Climbs:

New, and old, climbing venues and climbs are documented by individual climbers (on the internet and in guidebooks). This is unregulated and the quality of the information is taken on trust by those who use it to repeat these documented climbs. This is undertaken on the full understanding that natural environments change, in-situ protection degrades and any description of a climb cannot be wholly accurate – descriptions (of route direction, protection opportunities, the quality of in-situ protection and even its presence as well as grade of difficulty) are for guidance only and will change over time.

Participation and Personal Risk Assessment:

In accordance with the participation statement climbers should make their own assessment of the quality of any protection they use, both personal (climbing ‘gear’) and in-situ (any form of fixed protection left in the crag including pegs, slings and bolts). It is up to the individual to assess whether such protection is suitable to take a fall or be used in any way. This is all part of the risk assessment required by individuals to participate as safely as they wish to.

Liability:

The participation statement makes it clear where responsibility lies: climbers cannot undertake the activity understanding the risk and responsibility then hold any other person liable for damages (including other climbers, first ascensionists / climb developers, guidebook authors and publishers, landowners and land managers etc.). The MCofS fully supports this view.

FIXED EQUIPMENT QUALITY

The MCofS supports a self-assessing and self-regulating system regarding the placement and use of all forms of protection, including those left in-situ on a crag or cliff. The quality of hammered pegs, hammered ‘natural protection’ and slings on an adventurous climb is variable (due to factors such as environmental conditions, quality of rock and age) and so cannot be ‘governed’ by regulation, and cannot be maintained to any standard. The placement of bolts to produce sport climbs is also unregulated but the MCofS recommends they are placed in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. The quality of in situ bolts on a sport climb can therefore be as variable as other forms of in situ protection.

Protection Replacement:

Local climbers (or sometimes the first ascensionists) will endeavour to replace in-situ ‘natural’ protection when it degrades on an ad-hoc basis. Often it cannot be replaced. Information on such issues is updated in guidebooks and the internet by individuals.

Local climbers are usually those who develop sport climbs. They regularly climb on the routes. This personal connection allows for informal checking of bolt quality and is backed up by feedback from visiting climbers. Local ‘bolt funds’ have been set up to help pay for the replacement of old bolts and the MCofS supports this informal system and encourages climbers to support any local bolt fund.

Guidance for assessing suitable venues for sport climbing development in Scotland:

The MCofS, as the representative body, has conducted extensive consultation with climbers over many years and endorses the widely accepted ethic that adventurous bolt-free climbing remains the primary ethic in summer and winter for all Scottish climbs, but that there is a place for sports style climbing in the future of Scottish climbing.

The MCofS has produced the following statement regarding the use of fixed protection (utilising bolts) on both natural and quarried rock in Scotland to act as a guideline for climbers wishing to establish sport routes:

REGARDING ESTABLISHED VENUES:

Sport climbing development in Scotland is considered as an integral part of the diverse range of climbing styles available that now coexists with traditional adventurous climbs

Bolts are unacceptable to the majority of Scottish climbers on established (documented) mountain cliffs and sea cliffs, in both summer and winter

Established (documented) traditional and sport venues would be expected to remain in their documented style. If a change in style is to be considered in the future (bearing in mind the above guideline on mountain and sea cliff venues) then the following advice is given:

Retro-bolting (the addition of bolts to established climbs without them) should only be considered with the permission of the first ascensionist and after wide consultation with interested climbers at local and national level

Retro-trad (the removal of existing bolts) should only be considered with the permission of the first ascensionist and after wide consultation with interested climbers at local and national level

REGARDING NEW DEVELOPMENTS:

The development of sport climbs is welcomed within the context of a clear overall ethical framework

Mountain and sea cliffs with a wild, remote character (also reflected in their surrounding environment) and adventurous nature are not suitable locations for bolts, either for the development of routes or their limited use in order to facilitate easy retreat. Self rescue and descent without fixed equipment are all part of the adventurous nature of traditional climbs

Crags with good or adequate quality protection within strong natural lines would be regarded as traditional venues. Crags where an overall lack of natural cracks for protection together with a lack of strong natural lines would be suitable venues for sport climb development as long as they could not be classed as wild mountain or sea cliff venues

Sport mixed climbing (and dry-tooling) has an important role to play in the future of Scottish winter climbing, but should not be at odds with these guidelines

Those seeking to develop new sport mixed venues should enter into consultation with interested climbers at local or national level before taking action

bolts should be placed using current best practices

FACILITATION:

It is the intention of these guidelines that they allow climbers to make informed decisions about sport development and allow the climbing world to self regulate

If there are any doubts, or ‘grey areas’, an informal approach to gaining opinion is best at local level

The MCofS will offer assistance (through awareness / distribution of information / debate / mediation) to aid consultation if required

Responsible Access & Climbing:

The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 gives everyone statutory access rights to most land and inland water for the purposes of recreation and passage. These rights only apply if access is conducted responsibly, and guidance on what this means is contained in the Scottish Outdoor Access Code (SOAC) www.outdooraccess-scotland.com. Further explanation specifically for climbers can be found at www.mcofs.org.uk/advice-and-policies.asp. The 3 basic principles are to:

1. Respect the interests of other people

This includes other access users and land managers. As a general rule, the larger a group or event, or the more regularly use is made of a particular place, the greater is the risk of causing unreasonable interference. SOAC guides access users to accept reasonable requests, so for short periods (days rather than weeks) some areas may be not safe to access while these land management operations are underway. Any such precautions need to be for the minimum area and time to let the work be conducted safely and effectively. Information will normally need to be provided on the nature, location and duration of the risk. You should respect reasonable requests.

2. Care for the environment

It is irresponsible as well as illegal to disturb birds while they are nesting or their young, or to uproot plants. Try to avoid abseiling from trees (if necessary pad slings or rigging ropes on edges and round trees), or down popular rock climbs. Trampling on roots, visually intrusive tat and noise should be kept to a minimum. Large numbers of climbers at certain cliffs can increase the impact on wildlife as well as detracting from the experience, so carefully consider the suitability of the venue if your are leading group.

3. Take responsibility for your own actions

Take note of the MCofS Participation Statement and assess the solidity of the rock and fixed protection for yourself. Be aware of the legal principle “volenti non fit injuria” which means that a person taking access will generally be held to have accepted any obvious risks which are inherent in the activities they are undertaking. It is also your responsibility to assess all your actions for the impact on others interests and the environment.

Helicopter Rescue Videos

Videos demonstrating helicopter rescues and lifts:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtXKQnvPP2M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7PaGJgeMYiw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYp6jff0lys&feat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lfmky4yjJsY&feat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQcFzRgOOrQ&feat...

Wilderness Medical Associates

Climbers need to be self sufficient. Self sufficiency includes self rescue and being able to handle a host of medical problems that may arise on extended expeditions or day long climbing trips. Climber self-sufficiency is the name of the game.

“You shouldn’t rely on being able to call “911” and having an immediate response. Being trained in wilderness medicine is a way to develop a new skill set and allows you to maintain your independence in the field”, comments Paul Marcolini, NPS Denali volunteer, paramedic, and WMA lead instructor.

Wilderness Medical Associates (WMA) is the leader in wilderness medicine training— preparing over 7000 students annually to respond confidently and competently to medical situations in the backcountry.

Course offerings include a two day Wilderness First Aid, a four day Wilderness Advanced First Aid, and the 70 hour Wilderness First Responder (in five, seven or eight day formats). Training is held throughout the US year-round.

WMA instructors are active medical professionals who are out in the field doing what they teach. They are medical practitioner’s first and outdoor enthusiasts second. The hands-on training devotes significant time to practical sessions and realistic rescue simulations. This approach prepares students for the stress of actual emergency situations.

Wilderness Medical Associates invites you to submit any wilderness related medical question to its owner and medical director, Dr. David Johnson. http://www.wildmed.com/ask-dr-johnson.php.

For more information on courses, please go to: www.wildmed.com

USA: Telephone: 1-888-WILDMED (toll free) or 207-730-7331 (local)

Canada: Telephone: 1-877-WILDMED (toll free) or 705-455-9797 (local)

Equipment

Black Diamond Tripod Bivy – by Brandon Earhart

Pros:
Bombproof Construction/Materials
Roomy (for a bivy)
Simple Setup
Warm
Can be used with or without the poles

Cons:
Difficult to enter/exit
A bit heavy for a bivy

I have had this bivy for a few months. I used it on a 4-day trip on the JMT in early November. My first impression was that with the TODDTEX fabric and solid construction it is easily the most bombproof shelter I own. The bathtub floor was rugged enough that it didn't seem necessary to purchase the footprint. Initially setup took a few minutes, but after you've done it one time it's a breeze. Three poles, two to create the tripod over the head and shoulders and one at the foot. Two stakes at the head and one at the foot anchor it to the ground helping to maintain shape and to keep the material off you like a small hoop style tent.

In the field setup was easy. I found that for a bivy it was very roomy and had room for almost all my gear, everything except for my pack. I placed all my clothes toward the head and put my boots lengthwise at the waist next to the door. Entry/exit was a bit cumbersome. One thing to take into consideration is that entry in a downpoor will be completely exposed without any additonal shelter such as a tarp and any clothing changes will have to done outside in the elements. You just need to do your costume changes and get into it before the weather really turns ugly.

I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised with how much room I actually had inside and how warm it was. While it was roomy around the head and shoulders, once inside I wasn't able to reach my foot zip halfway through the night when I woke up hot. The TODDTEX fabric while not being quite as breathable as some lighter materials seemed to hold heat within the bivy and added about 15 degrees to the comfort rating of my sleeping bag. I was pleased to find very little condensation inside the bivy in the morning. The only condensation I found was actually on the underside of the awning where I had the door unzipped for ventilation.

I would suggest that you pair it with a tarp shelter of some kind as obviously under the worst conditions it's not going to offer enough cover to cook and change clothes out of the elements. If you're not expecting constant rain I would say that this would be a solid standalone shelter bridging the gap between tent and bivy. I haven't had the opportunity to use it in bad weather but with the materials and construction this thing seems utterly bombproof.

Incidents

Shisha Pangma, CHN – Roby Piantoni – October 15, 2009

(Mounteverest.net/Madrid) Italian Roby Piantoni fell to his death on Shisha Pangma's south face earlier today, climbers in BC just confirmed.

"It's a tragedy," a member in Edurne Pasaban's BC team has just told ExplorersWeb. "Roby was climbing together with Marco Astori and Yuri Parimbelli. The face was in very tough, cristal-ice conditions and, apparently, he lost his footing and fell. We are all devastated."

Roberto "Roby" Piantoni, a professional alpine guide from Bergamo (Italy) had previously summited GII and Everest without O2, plus had attempts on Manaslu and Broad Peak. He was 32 years old.

Roby, Marco and Yuri's goal on Shisha Pangma this season was to forge a new route up on Shisha Pangma's south face. Last weekend the climbers aborted a first summit push due to high wind conditions. According to their latest report on Monday, they were waiting in BC, hoping for better conditions in order to give the face another try.

While details on the accident are still sketchy, Montagna.org reports Roby's team was apparently on a summit push via the face's Bonington route. Roby's lethal fall probably took place early in the morning, local time.

Also in Roby's team are Adriano Greco and Veronique Lathuraz, aiming for a sky-ski descent down Shisha's south face.

10:56 am CDT Oct 19, 2009

(MountEverest.net) Earlier today Yuri Parimbelli, Adriano Greco and Marco Astori arrived in Nyalam with the remains of their perished mate Roby Piantoni.

The climbers retrieved the body from a crevasse at the base of Shisha’s south face on Saturday, and brought it back to ABC. The Italian team was assisted by Spanish Edurne Pasaban, Ferrán Latorre, Asier Izaguirre (together with two Sherpas) and Swiss Jean Troillet. The body was carried to the Nepalese border by porters, a member in the Italian team told Montagna.org.

A professional alpine guide from Bergamo (Italy), the young Piantoni summited GII and Everest without O2, in addition to his attempts on Manaslu and Broad Peak. He was 32 years old.

Langtan Lirung, NPL – Tomaz Humar – November 11, 2009

(MountEverest.net/Madrid) Slovenian Tomaz Humar is reportedly injured on Langtan Lirung's north face, friends in Slovenia just confirmed. Details are still sketchy though.

"Tomaz is stuck on Langtang Lirung's north face, somewhere near 6,300m," Slovenian climber Branko Ivanek told Barrabes.com from the Slovenian Climbing Federation HQs'. "He's apparently sustaining leg injuries," Branko added. "We've contacted Nepal and asked for details on the situation and rescue operations being performed."

The 41-year-old, who was climbing alone without Sherpa guides or porters, fell Monday evening from about a height of 6,200m, said Asian Trekking, the Kathmandu agency handling his logistics.

"Our base camp staffer received a call from Tomaz," said an Asia Trekking official.

"I have broken my back and leg, he said. I am afraid it will be difficult for a helicopter to locate me.

"My pulse is weak and I think I am going to die.

"This is my last..."

And then the satellite phone Tomaz was using was switched off, the agency said. A rescue team began looking for him Tuesday but as Tomaz had warned, he could not be detected.

Then Sherpa climbers began to search for him. However, the search had to be called off as the weather deteriorated and a snow storm started.

Simone Moro, who met Humar in Kathmandu some weeks ago,confirmed the Slovenian climber was aiming for Langtang Lirung's north face. "He showed me a photo; the face looked really impressive and dangerous," Simone told ExplorersWeb. "He was going to attempt a solo climb, with just one cook to wait for him in BC."

Tomaz Humar was born on February 18, 1969 in Ljubljana, Slovenia. He has been a member of the Kamnik branch of the Alpine Club since 1987, and completed nearly 70 first ascents at home and abroad. Humar has two children Tomi and Ursa. In 2005, he became trapped on Nanga Parbat during a solo climb. A Pakistani army helicopter saved him.

Tomaz's most remarkable climbs have been tough climbs at 6000/7000m: New routes on Ama Dablam, Lobuche, Nuptse West, Dhaulagiri (no summit), Aconcagua South face, etc. In October, 2007, he forged a new route in pure alpine style along the right side of the South Face of Annapurna. He climbed on virgin terrain until 7500 meters where he met up with the East Ridge route which he took to the East Summit at 8047 meters. Humar climbed the route in only 2 days (roundtrip) in very tough conditions.

Langtang Lirung (7,200/7,300m depending source), SW of Shisha Pangma, is the highest point in Langtang Himal. Rarely visited, teams usually attempt the summit from the peak's East ridge. Terrain is mostly steep, difficult ice.

November 12: Update from Menno Boermans - Alpine Rescue Center

Air Zermatt Team on it's way to Nepal to help Tomaz Humar

A rescue team of Swiss Mountain Rescue Station Air Zermatt is on it's way to Nepal to try to help Slovenian mountaineer Tomaz Humar. Humar is injured and stranded at about 6,300 meters on Langtang Lirung’s north face since earlier this week.

On Monday november 9, Tomaz phoned with his partner in Slovenia. He said that he is injured, but without details. This was his first and last call from the mountain. He is thought to be on an altitude of around 6,300 meter, in the south face of Langtang Lirung 7227meter, a peak in the Langtang mountain chain, of the Nepalese Himalaya. His colleague in Slovenia called Air Zermatt, and asked for an intervention of the highly skilled helicopter mountain rescuers.

The Swiss team consists of Robert Andenmatten (rescue pilot Air Zermatt), Bruno Jelk (chief of the Zermatt mountain rescue station) and Simon Anthamatten (world famous alpinist and mountain rescue specialist). Air Zermatts chief pilot Gerold Biner is coordinating the rescue in Zermatt: "Our team left Switzerland this morning and is hoping to arrive in Kathmandu tomorrow."

"Our biggest challenge will be to arrange the permit for our pilot to fly an Nepalese helicopter. Sadly it seems difficult to convince the local authorities that our pilots are very experienced ‘longline-pilots’ (we fly up to 8000 sling load operations a year -cargo and human up to a length of 600 ft. lines). We have the skills and the currency to perform such extreme rescue missions in high altitude.

05:30 am CST Nov 13, 2009

(MountEverest.net/Madrid) Concerns grow for Slovenian Tomaz Humar, reported missing on Langtang Lirung. Chopper pilots and Sherpa rescuers have been unable to find the injured climber in the area he was expected to be.

A second rescue team, just arrived in BC from Switzerland, is currently halted by bad weather and high avalanche risk.

Asian Trekking’s Dawa Sherpa just updated news in an email to ExplorersWeb.

Monday: First SOS call

“Mr. Tomaz Humar, Slovenian nationality, left towards Langtang Lirung on October 5th, aiming for a solo climb," Dawa wrote.

“On the evening of November 9th, Asian Trekking received an emergency call from BC crew member Jagat: Tomaz had had an accident at approximately 6,300m and requested immediate rescue.”

“The following morning (Nov10th), a helicopter with four Nepalese Climbing Sherpas (geared up with rescue equipment)were sent to BC. The chopper scouted the face loking for a certain location Humar had previously described. The crew was unable to spot the climber though. Then the helicopter dropped the rescue team in Base Camp and returned to Kathmandu.”

Tuesday: Tomaz’s latest call

“That day (Nov 10th) at 10:00am was also the last time Tomaz called Jagat,” Dawa continued. “The conversation was very short. Tomaz seemed to be in a very critical condition and his voice was very weak. He said: ’Jagat, this is my last!’. There was no further contact with Tomaz after that.”

“Meanwhile, the Sherpa rescue team set up Camp 1 at 5,800m before nightfall.”

Wednesday: no trace

“On the following morning (Nov11th) the Sherpas proceeded up to the spot Humar had pointed out as latest location, but were unable to find him.”

“A snow storm unfolding on Nov 12th (yesterday) forced the Sherpa team back to BC.”

Today’s news: Rescuers and choppers grounded

“Three Rescue pilot/climbers from Switzerland are arriving today, together with some Tomaz’s relatives. We’ll discuss further rescue efforts with them.”

Further news arrived two hours later, from Slovenia’s Climbing federation. “Bad weather (thick fog) has kept the chopper grounded today, making any further search flight impossible” Branko Ivanek told Barrabes.com. “The Swiss rescue team has just reached BC, but avalanche risk (after the recent snowfall) is too high to venture up the face.”

“The situation is serious,” Branko added. “We’re being told that Tomaz’s injuries may be worse than expected; besides a broken leg and snapped ribs, he might have back injuries as well. Should that be confirmed, an airlift would be the only possible option.”

04:00 am CST Nov 13, 2009

(MountEverest.net/night team/story update 11.55 pm) It is with sadness we received this update by the rescue team: "The rescue was made just a few minutes ago. Pilot Robert Andenmatten and rescuer Simon Anthamatten could get Tomaz down from Langthang Lirung. Unfortunately Tomaz did not survive! All our thoughts are with his family and friends".

In a statement made this morning, Gerold Biner of Air Zermatt said:

"We just got a call from our rescue team in Kathmandu. The rescue was made just a few minutes ago. Pilot Robert Andenmatten and rescuer Simon Anthamatten could get Tomaz down from Langthang Lirung. Unfortunately Tomaz did not survive. All our thoughts are with his family and friends.

The lifeless body of Tomaz was found at 5600 meters on the south wall. 'He had clearly fallen during the climb and broken his spine and leg,' said Asian Trekking's Dawa Sherpa, who coordinated the rescue effort.

Robert decided to use 25 meters of static rope to bring Simon on the accident site. Robert who was with a Nepali captain, first flew Tomaz to base camp and went up again to get Simon. Tomaz was further down than expected and had a broken leg. Our team is not sure if he had fallen further in the wall."

Video: YouTube

Fishtail Air’s AS 350 B3 helicopter brought back Humar’s body. This is first time in the history of Nepalese mountaineering that an evacuation was done using ropes.

On May 14, 2005 a standard-configured Ecureuil AS350 B3 piloted by Eurocopter test pilot Didier Delsalle touched down on the top of Mt. Everest, at 8,850 meters (29,035 feet) as confirmed by the Fédération Aéronautique Internationale.

Pinnacles National Monument, CA, USA – November 15, 2009

On the evening of Sunday, November 15, park staff assisted two male climbers, from the San Jose area, off of a climbing route after they had become stranded due to nightfall. Both climbers were uninjured.

The climbers were able to place a cell phone call to a friend, who contacted the park, around 6:00PM after they could no longer climb in darkness. They were near the top of "Condo Condiment", a 500 foot route on the Condor Crag formation in the High Peaks area of Pinnacles National Monument. The climbers were in different locations on the route and could not complete the final 100 feet without additional light. Rangers contacted the party via their cell phone and determined their approximate location and condition before the climber's phone battery was exhausted.

With an overnight forecast of 25 degrees Fahrenheit and gusting winds, rangers and search & rescue team members were dispatched to their location.

A California Highway Patrol helicopter located the pair using infrared radar and a powerful "Night Sun" floodlight. Assisted by monument staff, the climbers then completed the route and shorter descent off the back side of the formation. Upon completing the descent at 1:00 AM, the pair had been on the route for 14 hours.

Rangers escorted the climbers back to the trail and provided them flashlights for their walk back to the Chaparral parking area on the park's west side.

Obelisk, CA, USA – Ishun Chan - November 8, 2009

A 36-year-old woman died while rock climbing in the eastern Sierra.

Ishun Chan was climbing Obelisk Mountain in the John Muir Wilderness with two friends when she fell Sunday. One friend stayed with her, while the other went for help.

Fresno County sheriff's officials received the call at 8 p.m. and launched the search at daybreak.

A California Highway Patrol helicopter spotted the pair early Monday morning, but couldn't get to them because of the rugged terrain. Sheriff's officials had to send a ground team to hike nearly seven hours.

My name is Sean and I am Ishun's husband. Her family and I want to thank you all for your kind words and prayers, as well as the extraordinary effort her climbing partners and S&R workers extended to try to save her and to recovery her body. Ishun (IC) was always happy when she was climbing, and she is beloved by all of her friends. This was a shocking and sorry moment for all of us, and no language can express our hurt and anguish of losing her.

Ishun was a strong-willed but cautious climber as well as mountaineer. I spoke with the investigator at the Sheriff's office and one of Ishun's climbing partners on this trip about the accident. Ishun's death appears to be a freak accident. Ishun was traversing on a steep slab on the third pitch (?) of the south face route on Obelisk, protected by some pros, and took a swing fall. For some reason, the trigger of one of the cams attached to her gear sling (the cam not in use at this moment) caught a nob on the way down, and stopped her fall. Sadly, the force pulled the shoulder sling and strangled her. There was little her partners can do and the accident site was remote. The investigator indicated she probably lost her consciousness instantaneously.

To clarify, this was not the first backcountry alpine rock route for Ishun, and it is within her ability. As rock climbers, I think we all understand that lead fall happens to all climbing abilities. Ishun was well protected with pros at the time of fall, and this is indeed of a freak accident. The only factor I can really think of contributing to this accident is that Ishun's party might have been off route, as one of her climbing partners on this trip has commented.

Be safe and climb on. Although there is unspeakable sorrow for me and probably everyone knows her, I believe there are mountains and rocks for Ishun to climb in the heaven, her smile resounding in every starry night and in our memory.

Sean

From Bill Leventhal:

I am aware of a similar accident happening in Eldorado Canyon about 4 years ago to a man named Angus. He too, fell on a traverse & a piece of gear (medium Hex centric) on his gear sling, caught on a nubbin of rock at the end of his pendulum arc & his neck was either broken or he strangled to death before his partner could get to him. I never thought something like this could happen again but it has sadly. I may have to reconsider the use of gear slings around the neck when leading.

Account of Obelisk Accident

by haishan Friday November 20, 2009 11:15pm

My name is Patrick Callery. Our friend David Shirley and I were climbing with Ishun Chan on the South Face route of the Obelisk when she was tragically killed on November 8, 2009. This report of the accident is provided with the hopeful intent to provide some answers for her many friends and loved ones, and with the hope that her tragic passing may in some way better inform the climbing community of potential dangers in our sport. While this is intended to generally be a technical account, I would first like to use this space to say a couple things about our friend, Ishun.

First, Ishun is an excellent climber, and quite experienced leading on backcountry trad routes. She has a solid understanding of protection and anchor dynamics and is a careful route finder. She is an exceptionally strong climber and shares my unhealthy enjoyment of suffering heavy packs over long approaches to reach remote backcountry gems. She had many long backcountry routes under her belt, most recently a 2-day outing to climb the South Face of Charlotte Dome, which we successfully completed in good style two weeks prior to the accident. She has demonstrated very solid capability leading sustained 5.8 trad routes, with raw technical ability well into the 5.10 range. I would like to emphasize my opinion that this accident was not a result of inexperience or exceeding abilities.

Second, and more important, Ishun is a great partner and wonderful friend. While I had only come to know her recently, we had become fast friends and I was fortunate to already consider her one of my closest friends. Sentiments expressed by her many other friends and loved ones clearly illustrate the tremendous impact she had on others’ lives and how dear she was to those close to her. She is quite honestly one of the finest human beings I’ve had the good fortune to know, and she will be missed more than words can describe.

Sometime in early October I pitched Ishun on a trip to the Obelisk. A classic backcountry rock with an arduous approach, the Obelisk had been on my to-do list for years, and Ishun was enthusiastic about joining me for it. We half expected we’d eventually cancel the trip plan given the lateness of the season, but continued fair and mild mountain weather throughout late October kept the window of opportunity open. As the weekend approached, David also joined in. We grew a little apprehensive about the forecast for cold temperatures, but it would be only marginally colder than we had comfortably dealt with on Charlotte Dome two weeks prior, and the weather was forecast to remain stable throughout the weekend and several days past. Out of the many fine routes on the peak, we chose the South Face as our objective given its comparatively low rating (5.6 per Secor and Vernon guides), fewer anticipated pitches, and sunny exposure. We knew it would be a long day and anticipated hiking out Sunday night in the dark, as we had done on the Charlotte Dome trip.

The three of us arrived at the Crown Valley trailhead near Wishon Reservoir Friday night and slept next to the car. We were up at first light and hiking by 7am. It was quite cold but comfortable on the long hike in to lower Geraldine Lake. The trail has a reputation for being difficult to follow, and as we proceeded above Statham Meadow found this to be quite true; the presence of numerous cattle trails easily lead one astray in non-descript forest sections with few visible landmarks. A little extra wandering in the woods set us off our schedule, and we arrived in camp around 12:30pm, too late to make a run at a short route on the Obelisk that afternoon. We hiked to the ridgeline above the lake that afternoon to scope out the approach and get our first view of the Obelisk in person. A simply stunning view of this majestic dome comes into view as one crests the top of the gully above Geraldine Lakes, dramatically placed above Kings Canyon with an impressive high country backdrop. I remember joking that the view alone was worth the hike in, and Ishun replied something witty about needing to climb the peak to properly appreciate it.

The next morning, we rose at 5:30am and started hiking at 6am. We made good time on the approach and arrived at the saddle NE of the Obelisk around 7:15am. We took our time changing shoes and gearing up, and found the approach down the east side of the Obelisk more tedious with bushes than expected. After poking around the base of the South Face and studying the topos and other route beta, we settled on the most obvious “vegetated gully” that appears at the base of the South Face route. Entering the gully appeared tricky and awkward, so I offered to lead a pitch on the face to the left and traversed in to the gully about 100 feet up. This first pitch was everything the Obelisk had promised: steep rock with an overabundance of knobs and chickenheads, offering fun, interesting climbing and easy protection. Ishun followed, and we belayed David up from the proper gully entrance to save time. Above here, the gully appeared easy and we unroped to climb the next 150-200 feet solo. We continually discussed whether we were really in the proper South Face “long, broken chimney” or rather the “recess” mentioned in the Vernon guide. Much of this part of the gully was 4th class, with a few steep and awkward stemming/chimney moves to get around chock stones and bulges. Upon reaching a particularly difficult bulge, we opted to rope up and continue climbing. It was now a little after 9am; our intent was to top out by noon so as to get a good start on the pack out before nightfall.

Ishun took the next lead, starting up and over a steep bulge that she adamantly noted was somewhat stiffer than 5.6. Yet another bulge higher up was similarly difficult, but also cleared in good style. About 70 feet up, the gully ended in a steep wall, and she found an awkward exit to the right, climbing out of our sight. Despite being out of sight, we had excellent voice communication here, and she relayed some of what she saw. The steep face directly above the top of the gully looked intimidating, and she thought she might traverse right to see what lay above. She was starting to move a little more slowly now, and I remember continually looking down at my watch, concerned about our pace. It was now about 9:45am. I shouted from below that if things didn’t look right, she should put in an anchor and bring us up to discuss our options. She proceeded a little further, and I hollered out that she had reached the halfway mark on the rope. She responded that she would climb another 10-20 feet and anchor. After a couple minutes, I heard the terrible scraping noise of a steep slab fall, and the rope fluttered as Ishun cried out.

Surprisingly, the rope did not come taut. In this brief moment I rationalized that she had either caught her fall or stopped on a ledge. David and I called up to see if she was OK. There was no reply. We shouted a few more times and heard nothing. Moving quickly, I pulled the rope tight, locked off the belay and backed it up. We fixed a klemheist to the rope and reinforced the anchor for upward pull, then tied off the rope to the anchor and stepped out of the belay. About half the rope was out, so we reasoned I could reach her on the other half. We also had a single twin rope (for the 3rd to climb on) and I tied this to my harness to trail up. David put me on belay and I proceeded upward on the free half of the lead rope, clipping the pieces Ishun had placed on lead. The climbing was difficult as she had said, and my heart was racing. I tried to climb quickly but deliberately. Eventually I reached the top of the gully and could see Ishun to my right.

At the top of the gully, she had exited right and climbed up and right over steep slabs about 10 feet to a tied-off knob. Much of this face was very modestly featured, and conspicuously lacking the copious chickenheads we had found on the first pitch far below. She was now resting about 20 feet to the right and slightly down from this last piece. She was oriented vertically with her back to me, and I could see a piece fixed to the rock directly above her. One arm was thrust upward and she was leaning against the wall. I continued to call out to her in as calm a voice as I could muster, trying to reassure her (and myself) that everything was going to be OK. I climbed up to clip the top piece, then down-climbed and proceeded to traverse out to her on steep and surprisingly blank friction, with a few small footholds for balance. As I got to within 10 feet of her, David called out from below that I was now out of rope; I’d misjudged the rope length and now couldn’t reach her. I inched back to the left to more secure footholds, tied into the haul line, climbed back up to the high knob and clipped it. After David put me on belay with the haul line, I untied from the lead rope and traversed back out. It’s hard to remember exactly, but by this point at least 30 minutes had passed since the fall.

When I reached Ishun I could see her gear sling was pulled tight under one shoulder and around the other side of her neck. The gear sling itself was hanging from a single cam, the trigger bar having caught and held on a small knob directly above her head. This is what had stopped her fall without loading the rope. There was a loose runner clipped to the rope, indicating she may have been trying to sling a knob when she fell. She did not appear to be breathing and I wasn’t sure if I was detecting a faint carotid pulse. There were red trauma marks on her neck and a thin white foam at her lips. I was horrified to find that I could not release the gear sling as it was holding her entire body weight; we were 20 feet out on a pendulum exposure and I could not find sufficient foot holds to apply enough leverage to pull off the sling or to lift the cam from the protrusion above. The surface features available (a few small, rounded knobs in inconvenient locations) presented only very marginal protection between our position and the last good piece. What followed was almost mechanical; somehow I was able to rig a lowering system near the previous good piece and release Ishun from her position without causing a further pendulum swing. I am wracked with doubts as to whether I made all the right decisions in administering emergency care while managing the anchoring in our precarious position; all I wanted was to get her off the rock safely and see her wake up. I tried to hold out high hopes throughout the ordeal, but deep in my heart I think I knew she was already gone.

Soon David was lowering us on belay, and by the time we reached his secure stance in the gully I completely broke down, my suppressed emotions rushing to the surface. Throughout our effort, David was a source of amazing strength and capability, both with solid and responsive belay on dual ropes while I moved back and forth on the sketchy slabs above and then throughout the lowering process. Over the next couple hours we lowered Ishun down another 4 half-rope lengths to the ground below. We would fix an anchor and lower David down to the next open stance. He would then lower Ishun and me on separate ropes, coaching me down while I carried Ishun in my arms. The lowering was extremely difficult, over the uneven and blocky terrain of the gully. Throughout this process we continued to try placing cell phone calls, but could not get a signal. Upon reaching the base of the route we carried Ishun to a flat, open space beneath a few trees and tried to make her warm and comfortable; she had remained unresponsive throughout. After a short discussion and accounting of our resources, we agreed that David would stay with her while I ran for help. Here and at the NE saddle (where we had changed shoes in the morning), they had a sufficient amount of food, a liter and a half of water, headlamps, a couple backpacks and down jackets, and a lighter with which to start a fire. We agreed that if things got out of control for any reason, David would hike the hour and a half back to our campsite at the lake where a tent, sleeping bags, and a camp stove awaited. I left them at 2:30pm. While we were still holding out hope when I left them for the trailhead, David feels that Ishun had passed away around 4pm, before nightfall.

Sparing details of the hike out, I moved as fast as my legs would carry and arrived at the trailhead at 6:20pm, about an hour after dark. Still no cell signal, I got in the car and drove the 30+ miles to Shaver Lake, arriving shortly after 7pm. The first sign of humanity I encountered was the CDF fire station in Shaver Lake, where the firefighters on duty heard me out and immediately set to work in initiating the rescue operation. The operation ultimately fell under the leadership of the Fresno County Sheriff’s Search & Rescue team, with medical support from the Star Rescue Team. I remain in awe and deep gratitude of the professionalism, capability, and kindness of everyone that responded and put themselves at risk in this operation.

A ground team of 6 rescuers was dispatched from the base at Wishon Reservoir around 1:15am to the Spanish Lakes jeep trail, transported out the 4WD trail by a pair of volunteer jeep drivers. They would strike out on foot from Spanish Lakes to our campsite at lower Geraldine Lake, where 2 of the team would continue on the approach trail to the peak. Throughout the night, David had managed to stay relatively warm thanks to the gear we had on hand and by maintaining a small fire. The two ground rescuers arrived at the Obelisk shortly after dawn, about the same time the CHP helicopter also arrived. Due to the rugged terrain, the helicopter apparently had to try a couple different landing sites before they found a safe landing to which the rescuers could carry Ishun. The rescue medic reported her deceased on site, and later offered the assessment that she was likely killed instantly given the nature and severity of her injuries. Over the next several hours, Ishun was flown back to Fresno, and David and the rescuers returned to the base of operations at Wishon Reservoir.

People involved in accidents have often warned, in retrospect, about bad feelings in their gut before something terrible happened. I’ve been looking back on the whole trip and can’t think of a moment when my gut gave me any foreboding or cause for concern. Ishun seemed her usual upbeat self as well, up until the morning of the climb. She woke up complaining of a sore neck, and was pretty reserved on the hike in. I remember commenting to her as she reached the first belay that she didn’t seem to be smiling much. Maybe I should have picked up that something was amiss, but I never pressed her on it. We should always take care to not only be honest with ourselves, but also focus on the vibes given off by our climbing partners.

Throughout our brief climb I was not certain whether we were on the true South Face route. We studied the topo and guidebook photos carefully, and were confident but not at all certain that what we ascended sufficiently matched what we saw on paper. The gully we ascended was too wide to truly be considered a chimney, but it did have a handful of stem/chimney moves required within, and seemed the most obvious line for a first ascent party in 1948. The climbers’ trail around the south side of the peak seemed to converge on this spot, and we thought we recognized an adjacent route on the face immediately to the left as noted in guidebook photos. The gully/chimney ended in a steep face as suggested in the route guides, and this is where the accident occurred. Given the magnitude of the situation, when I reached Ishun it did not occur to me to look above for what may have been the best continued route upward, or to get a good look at the area above where she fell from. It was clear that she had continued an upward right traverse from the last high piece. The rock was steep and holds were not plentiful on this face. I’ve since returned to the base of the rock to pay respects and to more carefully reconcile the route guides to what we climbed. I’m now fairly confident that we were indeed climbing the proper South Face route, and that the chimney appears to continue directly up a short, vertical section rather than traversing out onto the face as we did. As her partner it was equally my responsibility to help keep her on route, and I feel I’ve failed her in this regard. While the climbing was not easy on this face, I don’t believe she had wandered into anything beyond her ability to climb. It appears she may have simply slipped and come off her stance, perhaps while trying to place protection. She should have taken a swinging pendulum fall on the steep slab, with the likely consequence some scraped limbs, a possible bonk on her (helmeted) head, and at worst maybe a sprained ankle. The cam catching on a small knob and stopping her fall was an extremely unlikely occurrence with a devastating outcome.

A small rock memorial exists under some trees at the base of the route, where Ishun rested while waiting for the rescue. For climbers approaching routes on the South side of the Obelisk in the future, please feel welcome to stop by this spot to say hello and pay respects, I’m sure Ishun would appreciate the visit. [END]

Pate, Trad climber

The Lost Highway Nov 21, 2009 - 09:38am PT

Thank you for this important post. I offer my sincere condolences to Ishan's family, and friends as well as to her climbing partners, who did absolutely everything right and should never second guess their actions in this tragic accident. You guys performed beyond admirably in the face of multiple dangers and executed a safe descent and extrication in which no other injuries were sustained.

It can definitely be learned from by everyone. It is a strange method of trauma, but not an unheard of one.

I have heard twice about friends who have fallen on low angle routes (both were alpine routes) and had their gear slings catch and pin their arm vertically and choke them. On each occasion they thankfully managed to extricate themselves by getting their feet under them and unweighting the sling. One did result in a dislocated shoulder.

On low angle or slab, we are leaning over the rock, and the rack hangs down in front of us, causing us to toss it back over our backs occasionally. As you fall on slab the rack, if it has slipped to the front, scrapes across the rock or snow and the chances of it catching are greatly multiplied. The falling party may even be on top of the rack, therefore actually pushing it into the rock with body weight.

When teaching low angle or alpine climbing techniques I always recommend to my students clipping the rack back to your harness so that it does not fall in front of you. This not only keeps it from becoming a pain in the ass, but if you should fall, it does not have the ability to tighten around your shoulder/neck. A strong, well made double gear sling also reduces the chances of tying the faller up. It does not matter wether you are the leader or the second- you only need to slide the length of the sling to get tied up.

If you can deal with the weight of the whole rack on your hips, then I always recommend racking on the harness alone.

Nutty Putty, UT, USA- John Jones – November 26, 2009

Search and Rescue team working to free an injured caver. John Jones, 26, of Stansbury Park died about 12:30 a.m., after he became stuck 700 feet into a cave known as Nutty Putty, Utah. Jones, a medical student at the University of Virginia, was part of a group of 11 people exploring the cave.

Search and Rescue workers were next to Jones for much of the day but he was wedged in a small hole upside-down too tightly to pull him out or even reach through to assist him.

The crevice where Jones was trapped was about 150 feet below ground in an L-shaped area of the cave known as "Bob's Push," which is only about 18 inches wide and 10 inches high.

At one point Jones was freed from the crevice but fell back several feet into the tight space when a cord failed. Jones' physical condition deteriorated rapidly.

This is the first tragedy to occur in Nutty Putty since 1960. In 2006 another rescue was successful for a boy trapped near where Jones was found.

Jones was attending medical school at the University of Virginia pursuing a career as a pediatric cardiologist. Jones is survived by his wife, Emily, and his 13-month-old daughter. Jones was also expecting a second baby in June.

The cave is now Jones grave and will be permanently sealed. The family will be allowed to place a memorial marker at the cave entrance.

Josh Jones said the family is considering a fund to help educate young people on cave safety

Events

Jack Tackle – Alaska Presentation – AAC Dec. 6, 2009

Lee Vining Ice Climbing – February 6 – 7, 2010

The California Mountaineering Group is hosting an ice climbing trip to Lee Vining Canyon February 6^th and 7^th. The contact is: tombcronin@yahoo.com. Space may be available in room 50 at the Lake View Lodge, or make your own arrangements in Lee Vining. Full shank boots are recommended with twelve point crampons. Ice tools can be shared. Don’t miss the Mammoth Double Nut beer Saturday night at the Tiger Bar in June Lake.

Classifieds

Books priced by condition (shipping via media mail at cost).

harrisonhood@sbcglobal.net

Addicted to Danger; Wickwire paperback PB $10.

Adventures Athletes Climbers (a collection of writings); Steven Boga PB $3.

Rock Junction John Long (signed) PB $15.

Into Thin Air; Krakauer HB $5.

Eiger Dreams Krakauer PB $5.

Mountains and Man; Larry W. Price PB $10

Fire and Ice The Cascade Volcanoes; Stephen L. Harris PB $3.

High and Wild; Galen Rowell PB $3

This Game of Ghosts; Joe Simpsom PB $5.

The Beckoning Silence; Joe Simpson PB $5.

First on Everest The Mystery of Mallory & Irvinne; Holzel & Salkeld HB $5.

The Last Step; Ridgeway HB $10

Ascent (about Willi Unsoeld); Leamer $5.

I Climb to live (signed) Stan Zundel PB $15.

Pathway In The Sky (story of John Muir) HB dust jacket worn $10.

Great Adventures National Geo 1964 HB dust jacket worn $15.

High Conquest; James Ullman HB no jacket $10.

From The Ocean to the Sky; Hillary HB no jacket $5.

On Snow and Rock; Rebaffat (great pics) HB no jacket $15.

Annapurna; Hurzog original printing, HB jacket worn $10.

Cache Lake Country Life in the north woods 1959 HB jacket warn $10.

Mountains and Man; Larry Price $5

Ascents Steck and Roper - 1980 $25 - 1984 HB $20

Mexican Volcanoes A climbing Guide $10

The Urban AdventureHandbook; Alan North $5.

Climbing School John Barry & Rodger Mear $5

Advanced rock craft; signed Robbins $15

2003 wine country rocks;signed Summit $5

Southern Cal. Bouldering guide Fry $10

Hiking the Big Sur Country; guide to Ventana Wilderness $5

103 hikes in SW British Columbia $5

Hikers guide to Cal. Adkison $5

Mt biking SO.Cal. Best 100 trails $5

Sierra Club Outing Leader Handbook $1

Wrangell-St. Elias Alaska Geographic book $5

Joshua Tree Trails illustrated topo H2o proof map $5

Lasson Earthwalk press Hiking Map and Guide H2o resistant $3

I just finished reading "Beyond the Mountain" by Steve House. His story of alpine climbing and the personal struggles and sacrifices associated with it are real, undiluted and eloquent. Not a handful of people can do what he does physically, much less use the profoundest of prose to lay bare the essence of what it is to be human. I have received many levels of inspiration by reading "Beyond the Mountain". Heartfelt thanks to Steve for sharing his story with the rest of us.

Beyond the Mountain is a must read for anyone interested in alpinism and the motivations and sacrifices of those who practice it at its highest levels. Steve House obviously went through a lot of soul searching to write this account of his career to date leading up to his successful ascent of Nanga Parbat. The result comes off as an honest and heartfelt tale which is a pleasure to read and left this reader with as many questions about personal motivation and accomplishment as it did provide answers.

In a time when most of the accomplishments in mountaineering are so summit oriented, alloyed with sponsorship and even reality TV, how can you not be pleased to read the account of someone whose accomplishments are purity of the opposite? The value of the climb, the route, and the unique experience of successful climbing partnership are lost to all except the climber. Steve House brings this all back to its proper value and vividly in his own words. This book is an act of Alpine art in itself. No Sherpa support, no supplemental oxygen, only minimal equipment, and nothing left on the mountain!

Sierra Mountaineering International was founded by Kurt Wedberg in the fall of 1995 after he had been guiding professionally for ten years. SMI is currently positioned to guide climbs throughout the Sierra, Joshua Tree, and expeditions to all seven continents in the world.

His mission is to cultivate an atmosphere that allows for the best trips offered anywhere, to provide a climate for passing on and expanding mountaineering knowledge, and to create a healthy and positive working environment for professional mountain guides.

The goal with our clientele is to make a friend. In the process we do our best to give them the experience they came to us for and when possible exceed their expectations. We are extremely proud that we have so many repeat clients year after year. Many of our clients are available as references for people shopping for a guide service and their names are available upon request.

The top priority on all of our trips is safety. While mountaineering carries with it inherent dangers, we do everything within our ability to minimize the risk. Another important objective includes reaching the summit(s), or achieving the clients' intended goals on our trips. We always have a lot of fun and great food along the way!

We invite you to look through this web site and find a trip for you. If you have any questions, to sign up for a trip, or to discuss climbs not currently in our web site, please contact us at any time. We look forward to seeing you in the mountains!

Sierra Mountaineering International is an authorized mountaineering guide service operating in partnership under special use permit with the Inyo National Forest, Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park, Joshua Tree National Park, and other agencies where applicable.

Sierra Mountaineering International, 236 N Main St., Bishop, CA 93514

http://www.sierramountaineering.com/

Telephone: (760) 872-4929, Fax: (760) 872-2489

Email: info@sierramountaineering.com

Our climbing expeditions maximize many years of accumulated wisdom leading trips to the highest mountains on the planet, a strong record of reaching the top of 8000ers: Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu, Shishapangma and many other high altitude summits in all safety, along with an intimate knowledge of the officials who regulate the permit system.

We have conducted countless 8000, 7000 and 6000 metre peak expeditions, and consider ourselves specialists in identifying, organizing expeditions to, and getting teams safely to the summit and back down.

We have been running expeditions for over 17 years and we know all of the bureaucratic officials, liaison officers, yak drivers, and hoteliers/restaurateurs personally in the countries we visit. We must also give credit to our polite and highly experienced, hard-working climbing Sherpa’s, high altitude guides, cooking, and office staff.

The goal of SummitClimb is to lead expeditions stressing 3 goals in the following order:

1. Safety at all times

2. Having fun, being part of a good team, making new friends

3. Success in reaching the summit and descending safely

We encourage men and women from around the world, of all ages, to join us as an individual team member or with your own group, whether that is your spouse, partner, friends, sibling, clients, colleagues, etc. Most of our members join as individuals, our team dynamics work well, and we are able to build successful and safe groups of people that enjoy trekking, climbing, and traveling together.

Email: info@summitclimb.com

www.summitclimb.com

Journal Information

Published by the “California Mountaineering Group”

Library of Congress: “Journal of Mountaineering”

ISSN: 1948-9110 (print), 1948-9129 (online)

Subscribe (join this group): http://groups.yahoo.com/group/JMTN/

Submissions: JMTN-owner@yahoogroups.com

Back Issues: www.journalofmountaineering.com

Disclaimer:

The Journal disclaims all responsibility or liability and does not guarantee, warrant, lend credibility, or endorse any product, service, or information mentioned; reader beware.

Journal of Mountaineering - Visitor Map - November 22, 2009