September 20, 2009 - Makalu base camp

While I am writing these lines, I am sitting here, at 5250 meters over sea at Makalu base camp. Over me, the summit of Makalu, 8463 meters high. Exactly 3213 meters lie between me and my wishful dream.

Exactly one week ago I was at the foot of the west pillar. At 6700 meter I installed a camp. I was fully motivated. I wanted to complete this project. I am very well prepare for it. In the morning at 3 o’clock I started to climb. I was so sure: „Steck will now climb the west pillar. Solo and without fix ropes to the summit.“ But then everything was different.
The considerable amounts of fresh snow showed me clearly where my limits were. But I fought. I did not give up. It’ not me to say so fast, that it doesn’t work. I know exactly: if I would not get out everything out of myself, if I would break off the whole thing and then sit in my warm living-room: I would feel ashamed for this!

I properly waded through the snow. In the first part it was not really a problem. But then I came into these rock upward swings. The snow of the monsoon was actually stuck up to 30 centimeters in the vertical passages of the wall. I couldn’t do anything else than dug the snow away, to find the rock structures underneath, which gave me the necessary halt to go ahead climbing. At yet 7000 meters an exhausting matter of fact.

This is like climbing the Eiger Northface by really bad conditions. I just thought that, would I be at home, climbing the Eiger under these conditions, I would instantly descend and go home, drink a cup of coffe and go climbing in the climbing hall in the afternoon.

The first rock step is done. Out of breath I stood up there. Now I moved to the right, from the ridge into an edge. A 45 to 50 degrees steep snow field. The snow was deep. I tried. The avalanche situation was for sure at the limit. The snow crystals were not bound to each other due to the cold. Just loose. I crawl, my strength nearly finished. But I moved on. 7100 meters.

The edge ends in a steeper channel. I had to go over there. As soon as it got steeper I glide back into this loose mass of snow. Every time my hearts stood still. Sometimes I slided one meter. Sometimes two. Every single muscle in my body was stressed. Why it suddenly stopped? I had no idea. As soon as I stood still, the tension loosened and the pulse in my head started to beat. A breather. Then I started to ascend in this channel, which was like a playground slide in front of me. I try to move on. Again and again. My nerves were on the edge. The whole thing recurred again and again. Then the next rock passage. Again I had to remove the snow. After the rock passage again a snow slope.

This slack mass wiped my psyche completely out. I never knew if I was standing firmly at the mountain or if I would glide out of the wall in the very next moment. I was in a permanent tension. The snow masses increased every meter. At 7200 meters I traversed back to the pillar edge hoping that there would lie less fresh snow. Over a rock upward swing I stood on a small precipitous platform. This allowed me to put down my backpack and to belay it at an ice axe.

I allowed myself half a litre to drink and a muesli bar, hoping to get back my strength and to get some rest. The glance upwards was destructive. The pillar was lying in a deep winter coat. A quick glance on my watch told me that I needed four and a half hours for 500 meters of altitude difference. The weather: deep blue sky. My self confidence reached its lowest point. What shall I do? Continue? Go back?

This uncertainty, never to know, what I was standing on, and if the snow would not draw back the very next moment, wore me down.

To climb without rope is mentally very demanding. But I can evaluate my points of halt. I see grips and steps. Maybe I find myself a thousand meters above the abyss. My whole weight hangs on a 7 mm wide rock edge. I can see the rock edge. I can judge, if it is solid or not. I know if can get hold of it or not. It doesn’t matter how big it is. But I can judge the situation.

Now I found myself for hours in this precarious environment. I definitively could not evaluate the situation anymore. I decided to descend! 7200 meters and I descend.
The descent became a war of nerves, too. I lost the sense of time. I just realised how tense I climbed downwards. Once I arrived at my camp at 6700 meters I sat down in the snow. My euphoria of yesterday had gone. I drank something. Since a long time I found myself at a secure place. But there was no sign of relief at all.

Now my thoughts started to rotate at full speed. What am I doing here? I thought about the past hours. I got angry about myself!

It’s clear as daylight: under such conditions to climb such a difficult route is impossible. And again I think: „You are too weak!“, „Have you just got too little will?“
At least one hour I sat there. My biggest wish was to fly back home immediately the very next day.

After one hour I started to pack my belongings. I just wanted to get down. And I would immediately stop doing alpinism. I didn’t see a reason why not! Half of the backpack was nearly filled and I started to strike my tent.

But then I picked up courage again. “It is only Septeber 13”, I thought. I would have at least one more month time to go for Makalu summit. I started to unpack my backpack again. At that very moment I had no plan, how I could possibly climb the west pillar. But in a month a lot can change.

I anchored my tent and deposited my material in it. Maybe the conditions would get better soon. Currently I did not believe this at all. I started my descent back to BC with mixed feelings. And I descended while the weather was beautiful!
Is it really necessary to expose oneself to such risk? I felt depressed. Fully motivated and with plenty of confidence I got into this project. And now everything seems to be over. My thoughts continue to circulate.

At 12 o’clock I had radio contact with Andy Waelchli. He and Robert Boesch were on the way to summit on the normal route. They sunk into the snow, too. A small consolation for me. They reached 6500 meters that day. Less high than I did. Robert went up the following day at 6800 meters before giving up too. So my decision was not completely wrong.

Back at BC I am relieved. I took a shower. I ate hot potatoes with chees and dry meat. I didn’t really know what to do. The next day Andy came down. And the other day Robert. We consult each other. We all agreed, that under these circumstances a summit ascent was hopeless.

At least the weather was fine. The sun was shining and we had no precipitation anymore.
This matter of fact seems even more unbearable: to sit here at BC and wait while the weather is gorgeous.

In the night my thoughts bothered me. History of alpinism shows clearly that everything has to fit if you want to summit a mountain over 8000 meters. And fact is that nothing fits at the moment. Also my mental situation is not at its best. I consider many different options. Maybe a route over the southface? The sun radiation is much higher and the snow-transformation goes on much faster. I could just traverse from the west pillar.
At the end I reject all these thoughts. If it doesn’t work on the west pillar, I won’t work also on the southface.

I decided to go back to my small camp at 6700 meters. The actual traverse of two peaks over 6000 meters: Jumeaux one and Jumeaux two. Andy came with me. This was on Wednesday, September 16. The track of Sunday was still there. This meant: the snow situation had not changed at all.

Withouth equipment we reached 6700 meter at 6 o’clock in the morning. It was bitter cold. The sun was still hidden behind Makalu.

I pack fast, so that we did not have to stay too long in the cold. I was happy that Andy accompanied me. After a long time of thinking I came to the conclusion that a summit attempt on the west pillar is not possible under these conditions. On the normal route it is more likely to be possible. If…

I left food, tent and cooker at 6700 meter. I took my down equipment back to BC. In this way I leave a tiny chance open for the west pillar. We descended.

Now I am sitting at BC and I am happy to have taken down my material. Now, I have open all possibilities. At the moment, the west pillar is an illusion. Just a dream. The normal route: if we are lucky, we have a chance. We have still three weeks to go until the jet stream let the winds increase at 8000 meters and make a summit attempt impossible. Three weeks...

The most important thing is, that we come back home safe. And for sure we will be all richer of one more experience. I for myself got in touch with my limits up there.

Iran Arrests Hikers – July 31, 2009

You are in: Under Secretary for Public Diplomacy and Public Affairs > Bureau of Public Affairs > Bureau of Public Affairs: Press Relations Office > Daily Press Briefings > 2009 > September

Ian Kelly

Department Spokesman

Daily Press Briefing

Washington, DC

September 25, 2009

Canada and the United States are deeply concerned about the continued detention of Canadian and American citizens inside Iran

U.S. calls on the Government of Iran to provide American and Canadian detainees with immediate consular access

IRAN

U.S. has been carefully watching and analyzing the secret facility in Qon -Qon facility for several years

The information the U.S announced today does not contradict the assessment that we made in the NIE in 2007

TRANSCRIPT:

12:50 p.m. EDT

MR. KELLY: Well, good afternoon. First of all, our apologies for having to reschedule our guest star today, Mr. Campbell. We hope to reschedule his briefing on our Burma policy for very early next week, I hope as early as Monday.

Let me read something very quickly at the top. It’s a short statement, but it’s an important statement. It was just released by the State Department and by the Canadian Government:

Canada and the United States are deeply concerned about the continued detention of Canadian and American citizens, including dual nationals, inside Iran, and once again urge Iran’s leadership to positively resolve these cases as a humanitarian gesture in accordance with their obligations under international conventions. Individuals in detention include Iranian-Canadian journalist Maziar Bahari; Iranian-American scholar Kian Tajbakhsh; retired Iranian-American businessman Reza Taghavi; and American hikers Joshua Fattal, Shane Bauer, and Sarah Shourd. American Robert Levinson has also been missing in Iran since March 2007.

We call on the Government of Iran to provide American and Canadian detainees with immediate consular access, full legal rights and protection, and a complete and transparent account of the charges against them.

As we have stated in the past, we fully respect the sovereignty of Iran. At the same time, we seek the safe and rapid return of all detained and missing citizens in Iran to their respective countries so they may be reunited with their families.

And with that, I’ll take your questions. Yes.

Articles

Alpine Ice

Couloirs- huh! What are they good for? Climbing and Skiing is the answer to that age old question. In this newsletter we seek to answer some basic questions about couloirs and climbing couloirs. What are they filled with? How does it form? When can I climb and ski?

These questions are not so simple to answer in a basic newsletter format since all of those questions all depend on and are related to each other. So, by all means, please let us know if you need anything clarified or would like to enjoy conversation with one of our learned guides.

ice
Early winter brings cold snowstorms, wind and basically no sunlight to our north-facing chutes. This leaves our couloirs covered lightly with loose, sugary snow on top of alpine ice. Approaches to the couloirs after the first snows of November can be downright treacherous. Most ice climbers and alpinists wait patiently for waterfall ice to form in Lee Vining Canyon and Horsetail Falls, where we enjoy the best winter ice climbing in California. For good couloir ice formation in fall, we need lots of snow to fill couloirs and stick to the ice in winter. This happens best with early season "pineapple express" storms that come from the Southwest and dump huge loads of relatively warm snow with plenty of wind to pack it in tightly.

If we get a good coating of new snow on the couloirs in winter, then the rest of the season the snow will more easily stick and begin to fill them up. By early spring, ski mountaineers will find excellent snow for steep skiing in our famous couloirs.

By late spring, May and June, the sun is at it's most intense and the couloir snow cover is its deepest. Night-time temperatures often remain below freezing. This sun melts the snow that covers approach trails and the rock ridges and summits that cap couloirs like the U-notch Couloir and Mt. Gilbert's North Couloir. The sun and warmth begin to hit North facing terrain for part of the day and the magic begins. Soon Alpine climbers can enjoy beautiful cramponing on frozen neve (firm, styrofoam-like snow) in the morning alpenglow.

Early summer brings warmer temperatures but hopefully hasn't yet melted off winter's snow. The melt-freeze process continues, causing the snow to become denser. By late summer the snow in the couloir ages and hardens to the point that it becomes a solid layer of ice.

The best alpine ice climbing seasons leave couloirs choked with ice from wall to wall for their entire length. Besides the aesthetics of having tons of ice to climb, it also makes these couloirs safer to climb, as the ice holds loose rock in place. Rockfall is a big hazard as you can imagine because a couloir is basically a giant bowling alley, and you are a strike waiting to happen. For this reason we move quickly and we go early, when rockfall is more infrequent. Once couloirs are melted out enough, they become dangerously out of condition.

Sierra couloirs go out of condition earlier and more often now than in seasons past due to consecutive lean winters followed by many warm summers. You can see this evolution in the popular couloirs where there are rappel anchors 20 feet above the ice on the rock walls, some of which we placed just a few years ago! Unfortunately, once alpine ice climbs disappear, they can take several big winters of snowfall and cool summers to get their mojo back. Call it one of the inevitable casualties of climate change, but we feel something must be done to save our Sierra ice climbs! If that isn't a motivator to save the planet then what is?

On the flip side, thanks to a cold June 2009, we are hoping that some Sierra couloirs will be in good climbing condition well into the fall this year. Sharpen your tools and crampons and stay tuned to our couloir report to see how the alpine ice season shapes up!

berg

One more detail about couloir climbing and skiing must be mentioned - bergschrunds. The snow and ice in our couloirs moves! It creeps and glides very slowly downhill under the force of gravity. Larger snowfields and glaciers below the couloirs have much more mass, and move downhill at a faster rate. The result of these different rates of movement is a crack where the two pull apart, called a bergschrund. Climbers know these features quite well and sometimes call them by their nickname - 'schrunds.

In the winter and early spring, snow falls and bridges over these cracks faster than the glacier can pull away. In the middle of winter it is often hard to detect the presence of a bergschrund under the seasonal snowpack. In late spring and summer, these snow bridges become thinner and weaken from warmth and melt. They sag under their own weight and eventually open up entirely. We often climb across suspect snow bridges and we take precautions to ensure we do not take a catastrophic fall into the depths of a bergschrund when couloir climbing. 'Schrunds at the base of the Palisade Couloirs can present 15 foot wide gaps over up to 40-60 feet of dark abyss. It is not uncommon that High Sierra couloirs require 20-30 feet of vertical, or even overhanging, snow and ice climbing to surmount their bergschrunds.

info@sierramtnguides.com

Equipment

Gri Gri - Safety advice follows student's climbing fall

The Petzl Grigri

The body responsible for overseeing safety for youth outdoor activities has issued a safety alert over the use of a piece of climbing equipment.

The Adventure Activities Licensing Authority has produced guidance following an incident in which a student suffered spinal injuries at an outdoor centre. The girl was wearing a harness and the belaying setup should have protected her fall.

However, the student fell a significant distance, leading to an investigation in conjunction with the Health and Safety Executive.

The AALA said that there is no evidence to suggest the belaying device, a Petzl Grigri, suffered any kind of mechanical failure. The authority has, therefore, issued the alert to ensure the device, commonly used to belay climbers on indoor walls or sport routes, is used properly.

The advice was issued after consulting Petzl, its British distributors and the HSE. The Grigri is a braking device used both in controlling falls and in abseiling. The AALA says the equipment should not be considered an ‘automatic locking device’.

The alert says operators and centres using Grigris should read the manufacturer’s literature, which sets out how the belay device should be used.

Specifically, effective arrangements must be in place:

a belaying system which uses appropriate equipment and techniques, selected with regard to the manufacturers’ instructions for use, the intended application and activity

clear operating procedures

competent belayers

adequate supervision, for the activity, maturity and experience of the belayers and the group, to ensure that the belayers have, and maintain, control of the rope tail (brake rope), at all times when belaying.

The initial investigation into the incident found that the device was being used in a different configuration to that described in the Petzl user instructions, namely with a ground anchor. In addition, the rope may pass through the device, without operation of the braking cam, if the rope tail (brake rope) is not adequately controlled, when the climber’s weight is applied to the live rope.

A full investigation is continuing, but the AALA decided to issue the interim advice to bring the potential problems to light if the Grigri is not used as instructed. The alert says: “Deviations, such as the use of a Grigri attached to a ground anchor, should be justified in the user’s risk assessment, following discussion with a suitably competent technical advisor, and the manufacturer or their authorised supplier.”

Two years ago, the British Mountaineering Council offered advice that the Grigri should not be considered a ‘hands-free’ device, and that a controlling hand should always be on the rope tail.

Its technical committee said: “The Grigri works by arresting a fall when its pivoting cam locks after a sudden load. If this sudden loading is absent, rope may run through the device without locking the cam to such an extent that an incident such as [a slow fall with no rope slack] becomes possible – especially if the belayer is holding or pinching the device in any way.

“The two points are the important ones – there is no slack in the rope and the fall is very gradual, resulting in almost no shock loading to the system. Now, the Grigri works by arresting a fall when its pivoting cam locks after a sudden load. If this sudden loading is absent, rope may run through the device without locking the cam to such an extent that an incident such as the above becomes possible – especially if the belayer is holding or pinching the device in any way. The fact that a rope in use is nearly new and probably quite ‘slick’ may also contribute.”

Full instructions for use of the Grigri are on the Petzl website.

By Bob Smith, http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2009/08/16/safety-advice-follows-students-climbing-fall

Full instructions for use of the Grigri are on the Petzl website.

Incidents

Yosemite, CA, USA – Jeff Mauer – August 30, 2009

Jeff Maurer, a Wildlife Biologist at Yosemite National Park, died Sunday, August 30, after falling from the Third Pillar, a technical rock climbing route on Mount Dana. Maurer, 47, has worked in the park for the past 3 years. Prior to that, he worked at the Yosemite Institute, taught at the University of California at Davis, and did research for many conservation organizations.

“We are deeply saddened by this tragic accident. This is a huge loss to the Yosemite National Park and National Park Service family. Our deepest condolences go out to Jeff’s loved ones,” said Acting Yosemite Superintendent Dave Uberuaga.

Jeff and partner arrived somewhat late morning at the base of the Third Pillar on Aug. 30, 2009, to find a party on the first pitch. In an attempt to pass the party and get above, Jeff began leading a variation to the right. It is unclear exactly what route he was on. About 50 feet up, Jeff fell and pulled two pieces of pro before hitting the ground. He was not wearing a helmet, and was killed instantly.

We were climbing the last pitch of the Third Pillar at the time of the accident. Sorry for your loss. I think this photo is of the two climbers on the hike in. It was a very windy day on the ridge top. Down below on the climb it was calm and beautiful. We couldn't get a cell signal and went to the ranger station to report the accident. Other climbers went to the bottom to help out.

I do want to correct one piece of information that bothered me. We did not start up the other crack system to pass the other party; we started because we thought we were on lenticular limbo (which we both realized we were not on really quickly) partly because there was a party climbing and two more parties coming down to be behind us and partly because the cracks looked really pretty.

Jeff's death was instant.

Death Canyon, WY, USA – August 27, 2009

2 climbers saved after fall

By Angus M. Thuermer Jr., Jackson Hole, Wyo.

August 27, 2009

A pair of Exum climbing guides helped an injured climber off a steep face in Death Canyon on Tuesday after a scary fall and a cascade of rocks injured him.

Rescuers got 23-year-old Brandon Huff, of Jackson, off the face of Cathedral Rock in Grand Teton National Park and used a helicopter to transport him to St. John’s Medical Center, where he was treated and released.

The Exum guides, on a busman’s holiday, played a critical role in getting the man and his partner down the face. Grand Teton National Park rangers finished off the operation with the airship.

Exum guide Eric Larson said he witnessed “a climber’s nightmare,” complete with a failed anchor system, falling microwave-sized rocks and two climbers dangling on their rope miraculously held to the rock by the barest of anchors.

The accident happened on Caveat Emptor, a climb rated 5.10 at the southern end of the park. Both climbers who fell were wearing helmets, park officials said.

Larson said he and fellow Exum guide Mark Falender had started up the route, following Huff and his partner, Jonathan Lawrence, when there was an explosion of rockfall. Falender was leading the first pitch and was 20 feet off the ground but protected by an overhang, Larson said.

“We dove for cover under the wall,” as rocks rained down, he said. “It was toaster-oven to microwave-size rocks whipping around.”

“It sounded pretty scary,” Larson said. “I was expecting to get hit.”

When the dust settled, the two guides heard voices from above.

“They screamed down to see if we were OK,” Larson said of Huff and Lawrence.

Falender climbed on up to the first belay ledge — about a rope length from the base — and was able to see the scene above.

“He saw those guys dangling from the rope,” Larson said. “It was obvious they needed some assistance.”

Larson said it appeared that Huff’s anchors pulled free and released rocks while he was belaying his partner from the top of the second pitch.

“It sounds like his belay anchors collapsed on him and he went down with it,” Larson said.

Both climbers fell 30 to 40 feet before the rope came tight on rock protection — temporary anchors — Huff had placed on the route between them.

“It was very minimal gear above,” Larson said of what saved the two men.

Park climbing rangers were still piecing together information about the incident Wednesday and were unable to give further details.

The two Exum guides were able climb some 12 feet up to Lawrence, set an anchor in the rock and lower him to the first belay ledge. Huff then got to that ledge by himself, Larson said.

The guides made a phone call for help and then got the two men down to a larger ledge at the base of the route. Rangers arrived with the helicopter.

In the airship, rangers made an unusual maneuver — hovering next to yet another party, high on the wall — to pass on a message.

Using a hand-lettered sign, they asked the party not to move when the helicopter was below in order to reduce the threat of rockfall hitting the airship.

Rangers loaded Huff into a litter and picked that up using a line dangling below the helicopter. They made a short haul to a landing site near Whitegrass Ranch, where they transferred Huff to an ambulance that took him to the hospital.

http://www.jhnewsandguide.com/article.php?art_id=4991

Events

CMG Ice & Rock Climbing Festival

October 9 – 11, Yosemite CA, North Peak.

The CMG is holding an Ice & Rock Climbing Festival on the North Couloirs of North Peak in association with SIERRA ALPINE ICE 2009.

Meet at Saddlebag Lake at 2:00 pm on Friday October 9 and hike in to a campsite below North Peak. Saturday either climb North Peak via 5th class rock ridge, 2nd class route, fish, AI4 route, or fool around on ice at the bottom. Saturday night will feature food and prizes. Sunday same choices, hike out and drive home. Contact: tombcronin@yahoo.com

Gallery

Journal of Mountaineering - Visitor Map (September 3, 2009)

Summit of Mt. Whitney September 19, 2009

For Sale

Books are priced by their condition and do not include shipping. I'll throw in a free telegraph peak Quad 7.5 for the first purchase over $10 and a free American Alpine news for the next 3 purchases over $10.

Let me know if you have any questions,

harrisonhood@sbcglobal.net

Addicted to Danger; Wickwire paperback PB $10.

Adventures Athletes Climbers (a collection of writings); Steven Boga PB $3.

Rock Junction John Long (signed) PB $15.

Into Thin Air; Krakauer HB $5.

Eiger Dreams Krakauer PB $5.

Mountains and Man; Larry W. Price PB $10

Fire and Ice The Cascade Volcanoes; Stephen L. Harris PB $3.

High and Wild; Galen Rowell PB $3

This Game of Ghosts; Joe Simpsom PB $5.

The Beckoning Silence; Joe Simpson PB $5.

First on Everest The Mystery of Mallory & Irvinne; Holzel & Salkeld HB $5.

The Last Step; Ridgeway HB $10

Ascent (about Willi Unsoeld); Leamer $5.

I Climb to live (signed) Stan Zundel PB $15.

Pathway In The Sky (story of John Muir) HB dust jacket worn $10.

Great Adventures National Geo 1964 HB dust jacket worn $15.

High Conquest; James Ullman HB no jacket $10.

From The Ocean to the Sky; Hillary HB no jacket $5.

On Snow and Rock; Rebaffat (great pics) HB no jacket $15.

Annapurna; Hurzog original printing, HB jacket worn $10.

Cache Lake Country Life in the north woods 1959 HB jacket warn $10.

Mountains and Man; Larry Price $5

Ascents Steck and Roper - 1980 $25 - 1984 HB $20

Mexican Volcanoes A climbing Guide $10

The Urban AdventureHandbook; Alan North $5.

Climbing School John Barry & Rodger Mear $5

Advanced rock craft; signed Robbins $15

2003 wine country rocks;signed Summit $5

Southern Cal. Bouldering guide Fry $10

Hiking the Big Sur Country; guide to Ventana Wilderness $5

103 hikes in SW British Columbia $5

Hikers guide to Cal. Adkison $5

Mt biking SO.Cal. Best 100 trails $5

Sierra Club Outing Leader Handbook $1

Wrangell-St. Elias Alaska Geographic book $5

Joshua Tree Trails illustrated topo H2o proof map $5

Lasson Earthwalk press Hiking Map and Guide H2o resistant $3

Journal Information

Published by the “California Mountaineering Group”

Library of Congress: “Journal of Mountaineering”

ISSN: 1948-9110 (print), 1948-9129 (online)

Subscribe (join this group): http://groups.yahoo.com/group/JMTN/

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Disclaimer:

The material presented contains dangerous inaccuracies. The Journal disclaims any responsibility or liability and does not guarantee, warrant, lend credibility, or endorse any product, service, or information mentioned; reader beware.