Journal
of Mountaineering
To Accumulate and Spread Mountaineering Knowledge
AUGUST 2009
ISSN 1948-9110
Greenpeace Takes Mount Rushmore: Why 11 Climbers Were Willing to Risk Arrest
Belfast, GBR - Climber Protest Succeeds – June 22, 2009
Mount Terror, WA – Climber Forgets Toothbrush
Shoulder Reduction at 10,000 feet
OSHA Fall Arrest Systems Specification
Rope, Cord, Webbing, and Harnesses
Snow Trenches (1/2 to 2 Hours)
Snowmounds/Quinzhees (2 to 4 Hours)
Verlot, WA – Lindsey White – July 5, 2009
Mammoth, CA – John Bachar – July 5, 2009
Nanga Parbat, PAK – Wolfgang Köblinger – July 10, 2009
Nanga Parbat, PAK – Go Mi-Sun – July 11, 2009
K2, PAK – Michel Fait – June 23, 2009
News
Greenpeace Takes Mount Rushmore: Why 11 Climbers Were Willing to Risk Arrest
By Stacy Morford - July 12th, 2009 - SolveClimate.com
It‘s 8:45 a.m., and 11 Greenpeace activists, loaded with climbing gear and a long, heavy banner have made their way up to the top of Mount Rushmore. So far, security hasn‘t detected them. Still, they‘re whispering and keeping to the shadows.
Down at the tourist center, the wind is just starting to pick up, but 500 feet up the mountain, the gusts are already fierce.
None of the climbers has ever been here before. They know the national park has its own climbing team with established rope anchors on the monument. They intend to find those anchors and use them.
“I‘ve never been so nervous in my life”, one whispers into the camera.
10 a.m. Go time.
If you've ever wondered what it takes to hang one of those massive Greenpeace banners, the video shows it up close and in detail as the climbers unfurl a 65-by-35-foot banner next to Lincoln's face, with the wind whipping the banner like a giant sail and two climbers being slammed into the rock mountainside as they try to keep it in place.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A9_xj77rcQ
“America Honors Leaders - Not Politicians - Stop Global Warming” the banner reads.
Greenpeace planned the July 8 Rushmore action and the take-over of four coal plants in Italy to coincide with the G8 summit, where the world's most-polluting countries were considering a declaration to keep the global temperature increase below 2 degrees Celsius. In Congress, the U.S. Senate had just started discussing climate legislation, following a serious weakening in the House of the Waxman-Markey climate bill by politicians demanding concessions for their home-state industries.
The Rushmore banner was a message to President Obama that the time to get tough about true climate action and to show leadership on the issue is now.
After about an hour of holding the banner in place, the climbers rappelled to the ground, where sheriff‘s deputies were waiting. The 11 were arrested and pleaded not guilty to federal misdemeanor charges of trespassing and climbing on Mount Rushmore. Trial is set for October. Each could face up to six months in jail.
Matt Leonard (below right, with banner), a veteran of about a dozen banner hangings and other direct actions with Greenpeace, was holding down the lower right corner of the banner. The 30-year-old activist talked to SolveClimate about the Mount Rushmore action and the message that Greenpeace is trying to send. He's been rock climbing for 10 years and worked in industrial rigging for concerts, but this was by far one of his windiest, toughest climbs.
What was going through your mind up there on the mountain?
We‘re very well trained, very experienced. Safety is a big deal. This was a new one though. We didn‘t know what we would face – none of us had ever been to the top of Mount Rushmore before. And you‘re dealing with carrying a lot of weight and security. We were very vigilant about not damaging anything or creating a situation that would put anyone else in danger.
After you were arrested, what kind of response did you get from people on the ground?
There was a lot of mixed reaction. There was some heckling. We also got a lot of thumbs up from people as we were being escorted out.
Do you think direction actions like the Mount Rushmore banner and the coal-plant takeovers in Italy are making a difference and getting your message across?
When you‘re in a crisis situation, you‘re not always going to respond in a calm way. You‘re going to scream and yell. This is one way to make those concerns known – this is a crisis and people need to treat it like a crisis.
It‘s important that the public see that people are willing to speak up and put their bodies on the line, and people respect the degree of courageousness.
Like most groups involved in social justice, we don‘t have the money to buy a full-page ad in The New York Times or a spot on CNN. So with direct actions and social networking, we‘re certainly getting the message across, and we‘re putting some pressure on the targets. We‘d love to get the phone call from Obama, but …
If you had President Obama on the phone right now, what would you tell him?
On the campaign trail Obama promised to be a leader on climate and environmental issues, and to restore science to its proper place in our government. So far, he has done neither – he has played it safe with middle grounds, half measures, and political convenience. I would tell Obama that he has both the power, and the responsibility to act boldly on climate change - to be a great leader and not just a politician.
There‘s also a reality that when he has attempted to be a progressive voice for change, he‘s hit opposition from industry and conservatives. Actions like this can give him political space – show that there are people behind him demanding that he do what science says must be done to solve climate change.
I think it‘s a message he‘s certainly paying attention to, and hopefully one he follows.
Greenpeace’s executive director, Phil Radford, was at the G8 meeting in Italy. What kind of reaction did he get to the coal-plant takeovers and Rushmore banner?
I think the tone was shifted at the G8, and I think all these actions played a central role in that. There was a greater tone of accountability from world leaders, the media and civil society. There were stronger demands from participating groups, more of a sense of urgency. That change in discourse is vital as the clock ticks down towards Copenhagen.
Greenpeace puts itself out there like no one else, while other big environmental groups are focused on the political insider’s game. Which is more effective?
Every social movement that has had major victories has used strategic civil disobedience and peaceful direct action – and it‘s a lesson of history that many in the climate movement simply are forgetting.
Franklin Delano Roosevelt once said, ―I agree with you, I want to do it, now make me do it.‖ We don‘t even have our leaders all agreeing with us – or the worlds best scientists – which is all the more reason we must make them do it by applying stronger pressure, and flexing our movement‘s muscles.
This is a crisis. We need to stop timidly asking or we risk yet another decade of inaction. We simply can‘t accept the current political reality – we have to drastically shift that reality in order to ensure we solve the climate crisis.
By Stacy Morford - Jul 12th, 2009 - SolveClimate.com
http://solveclimate.com/blog/20090712/greenpeace-takes-mount-rushmore-why-11-climbers-were-willing-risk-arrest
Belfast, GBR - Climber Protest Succeeds – June 22, 2009
Patrick Joyce, 38, was charged with imprisoning five people for three hours. The five were stuck on the 200’ Ferris wheel during the incident. Joyce was also charged with disorderly conduct. Mr. Joyce was apparently protesting his living conditions. He was dressed only in a pair of short pants. He climbed on top of one of the pods before raising himself on to the wheel.
He is now comfortable housed in the Belfast jail. Roads around the structure were closed during the incident until fire fighters brought Mr. Joyce down. Specially equipped members of the Fire and Rescue Service were deployed. They climbed the middle of the wheel and reached a position in which they were able to converse. Shortly afterwards Mr. Joyce climbed down by himself.
My Joyce is a member of the Irish Traveller community. Under the government's "Gypsy and Traveller Sites Grant", designated sites for Travellers' use are provided by the council, and funds are made available to local authorities for the construction of new sites and maintenance and extension of existing sites. The struggle for equal rights for these transient people led to the passing of the Caravan Sites Act 1968 that for some time safeguarded their rights, lifestyle and culture in the UK. The Criminal Justice and Public Order Act 1994, however, repealed part II of the 1968 act, removing the duty on local authorities in the UK to provide sites for Travellers and giving them the power to close down existing sites.
Mount Terror, WA – Climber Forgets Toothbrush
A helicopter retrieved a man on July 9th who had been stranded on Mount Terror since July 5th.
Climber Jason Schilling arrived at the Marblemount ranger station around noon, looking tired but happy. The helicopter first stopped at a camp close to the mountain where some of Schilling‘s friends were waiting for him. Then they went by car to a diner in Marblemount for a big breakfast before coming by the ranger station.
Weather prevented other attempts until today. Schilling, 33, had radioed park rangers this morning that he was still doing well while he waited for help on the highest peak in the Southern Pickets Range about five miles north of Newhale.
When he arrived in Marblemount this afternoon, he said he was feeling OK but that toward the end or his ordeal, he was feeling the mental strain of spending more than four days on rocky cliff with only a small cave to keep him out of the elements.
He said he stayed pretty warm, except for his feet. He was rationing his food because he didn‘t know how long he would be there. He said he knew he would be OK and that rescuers would eventually reach him. But the wait was uncomfortable.
“I thought about food, beer, coffee, level ground and sunshine,” he said, adding that he also thought about his girlfriend, who was with him this afternoon at the ranger station. His next hope was to go brush his teeth and go ―lay by the river.
The trouble for the Mount Terror climber began Sunday morning when one of a group of four climbers fell 60 feet and sustained some serious injuries. A rescue helicopter
managed to lift the injured climber Steve Trent to safety Sunday night, but the weather changed quickly, and the helicopter couldn‘t go back.
Schilling, who stayed behind to help his wounded climbing partner, was still waiting for help this morning when the break in the weather finally came.
Trent spent the last several days in a hospital. Two others from their group hiked out on their own Monday.
Rescue workers were considering a ground rescue with expert climbers if the helicopter was unable to fly today.
A North Cascades park ranger said Schilling found a small cave for protection from rain and even snow, which fell on the mountain Tuesday. Schilling also had a radio and some provisions that were dropped to him during the first climber‘s rescue.
In an unrelated rescue effort, an injured 67-year-old Bellevue man was also rescued from the El Dorado Creek Basin this morning. His hiking partner walked out Wednesday night and reported that hiking partner Bill Clark had broken his leg on a slippery boulder.
A ranger went to Clark and spent the night, and a helicopter lifted Clark out today, not long after Schilling was rescued. Tahlia Ganser | Skagit Valley Herald
http://www.goskagit.com/home/article/stranded_climber_facing_5th_day_alone_on_mount_terror/
Articles
Physical Effects of Climbing
I am bouldering ten feet off the ground with only a six-inch piece of foam protecting me. Seven feet of volcanic rock separates me from completing the hardest climb I have ever done. Mentally, I am in another world; it takes all my concentration to attempt this climb. To finish, I must muscle my way up these last few moves. I crimp down with my left hand and move my right foot up. I take a glance at my next hold, and calculate from years of experience how much energy I am going to need to get to that hold. My left arm is pulling up; I let go of my right handhold and the next moment my two fingers nail the two-finger pocket. I yell out a guttural scream from the difficulty of the move. Five feet from the end, I have two moves left. I am exhausted from the past thirteen feet of climbing and realize that I may not have enough energy to do the last two moves. Moving my feet up as high as they can go, I tighten up my grip and lunge for the lip. I am soaring through the air, no part of me is touching the rock; I reach for the hold with my left hand. Grabbing onto the edge of the rock, my feet swing out becoming parallel to the ground. All of a sudden I feel the rock abrading my skin, I am yelling “Nooooooo” and free falling. Suddenly I hit the ground and come back to reality.
As I get off my crash pad, a passerby says, “I wish I could do that.” At this moment I started to flashback to a time when I could not even do one pull-up. After this flashback I realized how much climbing has affected my life. Even in my dreams when I started climbing I never thought I would be the climber I am today. Because I climb so often, I am in the best shape that I have ever been in my life. The sad part, though, is that with the benefits of climbing comes the disadvantages of climbing. Since I began climbing I have suffered some physical complications, but overall I have experienced many benefits. This has made me want to understand better: What are the benefits and dangers of climbing?
In Joshua Tree, five feet from the top of a climb, my friend’s foot slipped. Falling eleven feet onto a ledge, he broke the talus bone in his left foot and smashed his helmet. If he had not been wearing his helmet, he would have broken his head and possibly died. In climbing there is always a possibility of breaking a bone or even of dying. In my interview with Brian Cork, a professional climber and structural therapist, he told me that “a couple of friends have died from loose rock or severed ropes.” Even with the safety measures at the gym, people are still at risk for breaking bones. In a two year study of climbing gyms in Britain, the most common injuries that occurred were shoulder dislocations, and ankle and wrist fractures. Upper body injuries are common from the extending of an arm when breaking a fall. Ankle fractures are common when someone lands with one foot on a crash pad and one foot not (Cinnamon). A crash pad is a thick foam pad; when one foot lands on this and the other does not the landing is very uneven, which can result in many injuries to the ankle.
A common climbing injury that results from the impact of falling is bursitis. Bursitis is the inflammation of the bursae (these are sacs that are located between the joints that help with movement). During inflammation these sacs will fill up with water, causing the person to feel stiffness and pain in the joint. Treating bursitis usually involves draining the bursa and then resting the area (Cluett). If this injury is not treated this condition can last for months and maybe years.
Climbing mainly involves the use of the pulling muscles and not the use of the pushing muscles (the pushing muscles work as the antagonists to the pulling muscles). “As the agonist muscle shortens and gets stronger it pulls and weakens the antagonist” (Cork). This can cause many injuries that could easily be prevented with a little training of the antagonist muscles; two common problems are discussed below.
A very common injury that results from the imbalance of the shoulder muscles is the partial dislocation (subluxation) of the shoulder. The dislocation often occurs as the ball in the shoulder joint is pushed forward when the climber is doing a move where their arm is extended and the shoulder is behind the body. The climber will experience a severe pain in the back of the shoulder. This is a fairly serious injury because unlike many climbing injuries, a large portion of people who have subluxation of the shoulder need to have it surgically repaired (Hoerst 162).
Almost all climbers suffer from having “monkey posture,” where their shoulders are rounded forward constantly. In my interview with Brian Cork, he explained that “Muscles on the back of the shoulder get overstrained and [the muscles] on the front get all bound up.” This pulls the shoulders forward and causes the “monkey posture.” In my interview with Jim Lindenauer, a physical therapist, he explained that if the forward rounding “is long term, it will create problems with the neck.” This is not a very serious problem and is very easy to avoid and heal with a little cross-training workout.
In climbing there are moves that involve awkward movements of one’s body. One of these movements is called a drop knee. A drop knee is when a climber has their foot on a hold and rotates the knee downward. Climbers use this move to reach a hold that is out of reach or to make a move easier. Unfortunately, there is a danger associated with this great move. Rotating the knee while the foot remains in a fixed position can cause a tear in the meniscus (cartilage between the femur and tibia). This can cause pain, swelling and reduced mobility to the knee. However the meniscus usually heals itself if the damage is mild. If there is greater damage arthroscopic surgery has a high success rate for healing the problem (Hoerst 165).
“Improvements in protection techniques and the quality of climbing equipment mean that the old problems of broken bones have been replaced by new … problems” (Bollen). These new problems are overuse injuries. Since my family, friends, and I started climbing we have all experienced overuse injuries. These overuse injuries range from injuries that can last a few days to ones that will last a lifetime. The most common of the overuse injuries are tears in the pulley, Osgood Schlatter disease, and climber’s elbow.
One summer, my brother and I were climbing every day outside or inside at the climbing gym and sometimes both. In two weeks, my brother was suffering from a pain in the bottom of his finger. This pain caused him to only climb routes with big holds and then eventually take a break from climbing altogether. I did not know this at the time but my brother had, and still has, a partial tear in a flexor tendon annular pulley (his A2 pulley to be exact). There are five annular pulleys located in each finger. They are aided by the cruciform pulleys to keep the tendon attached to the bone. The most common pulley injured is the A2 pulley. This is from the crimp grip, where “ninety-degree flexion of the PIP joint produces tremendous force load on the A2 pulley, in addition to forceful hyperextension of the DIP joint” (Hoerst 155). The severity of the injury depends on whether it is just a partial tear or a complete tear. Also, if one is unlucky enough to completely tear two or more pulleys, a possible bowstringing effect can occur, where the tendon can be visibly seen coming off the bone. Cork explained, “That’s a tough one. It can take a while to heal from and [the finger] is always a little bit weak after that.” Presently my brother is still climbing, but he always fears pushing himself, as he worries he will inflict further damage onto his pulley.
I fall once again, and my knee starts to hurt. It is a pain that is oh-too-familiar. Six years ago I was diagnosed with Osgood Schlatter disease/disorder (OSD). Since then I have understood that too much jumping causes this inflammation, but have never understood the source of this pain. OSD is a disorder that affects athletic children who participate in sports where jumping is frequent. OSD is caused from the patella tendon pulling on the tibial tuberosity. The pulling causes small avulsion fractures and inflammation to the patella tendon, resulting in new bone growth, during healing (sportsinjuryclinic.net). The bone growth eventually leads to a bump of bone right under the kneecap. Realizing that this pain is the OSD, results in my taking a few days off from climbing.
Twelve percent of climbers will experience injuries to the elbow. The most common are climber’s elbow, technically known as medial epicondylitis (Hoerst 152,160-1). Climber’s elbow is tendonitis in the tendon connecting the forearm flexors with the medial epicondyle (located in the inside of the elbow). As tendons take a longer time to strengthen than muscles; the muscles in the forearm will get too big for the tendon to support, resulting in tears in the tendons thus tendonitis. In my interview with Jim Lindenauer, he explained the most important thing to do, “The people with the forearm problems have to rest.”
Luckily, most climbers will only experience one or two problems and rarely experience them at the same time. So the dangers of climbing are far outweighed by an infinite number of benefits of climbing.
Exercise has been known to relieve stress and anxiety in many ways. “Both a single bout and regular physical activity reduce your anxiety level” (Goldberg 211). One of the ways anxiety levels and stress are lowered is through the release of endorphins, during strenuous exercise. These endorphins travel to the limbic system of the brain, where they produce a euphoria that decreases anxiety and stress (Stoppler). Last semester my government grade was 90.2% the day before the final. I was overly stressed about this marginal grade and decided to go climbing to take my mind off school. Another way that climbing lowers stress is that it simply takes one’s mind off whatever is stressing one out (Goldberg 211). Brian Cork described this in my interview when he stated:
I kind of think of [climbing] as a meditation, because it is very single-minded focus. When you are trying to get to the top of a route, you are not thinking about the job you have to go to later, school, or any other daily existence whether good or bad.
It was only when I was driving home from the climbing gym, that I remembered about the finals the next day and the predicament that I was in. During the entire time I was climbing, I never thought about the final once.
In some similar ways climbing can eliminate or reduce depression by taking one’s mind off of the things. Incredibly many studies have shown that exercise can work just as well as medications and psychotherapy. Exercise can do this because, like the medications, it increases the levels of dopamine and serotonin in the brain (Goldberg 207). Even though a person may not be depressed, climbing will still improve their mood.
If a person becomes interested in climbing and wants to improve, climbing will do amazing things to this person’s body. The more advanced climbers tend to be on the lean side, because in climbing everything that a climber puts in their body they have to carry up the wall. People who strive to get better will get in good shape for climbing and live a healthy life style. Even though these effects do not result completely from climbing they are indirectly related to climbing.
From exercising, a person receives a plethora of benefits and thus lives a healthy life style. A study found that employees who exercised regularly at Mesa Petroleum Company spent $217 less on medical claims and also had 21 hours less sick time recorded than the employees who did not exercise (Gettman). Exercise in general has abundant rewards. Exercise has been proven to prevent and treat diabetes, by muscles absorbing sugar molecules normalizing ones blood glucose level (Goldberg 85-6). Over 20 studies have shown that on average exercise will decrease one’s systolic blood pressure by eleven and one’s diastolic blood pressure by eight (Goldberg 151). This is huge considering that people who have high blood pressure are more likely to have strokes, heart attacks, heart failure, or kidney failure. Almost every study done on exercise and heart disease has shown that regular exercise prevents heart disease. Finnish scientists found that there is a high correlation between the amount of exercise one does and their chance of having heart disease (Goldberg 171). Exercise is simply a “death-defying act” (Goldberg 3).
Pulling back the door, I walk into the Diablo Rock Gym. A towering wall looms over my head while a smell of chalk and sweat hits me. As I near the front desk, I hear a man yelling “Nooo.” Then a millisecond later at the corner of my eye, I see a person sucked three feet into the air. He is pulled up from the floor by the rope, as his climbing partner falls. As I approach the padded blue floor, I look at some of the climbers. They all look like Greek statues, every muscle clearly defined and bursting out of their body. As a man starts to do a climb, the muscles in his back begin contracting and expanding. This is when I realized that the greatest benefit of climbing is the strength that it gives.
The development of muscle strength in climbing depends on the level at which a person is climbing. Easy climbs tend to have big holds and are nearly perpendicular to the ground. If the wall is not too steep, a climber can use their legs more and their arms less. Generally beginners will already have the strength needed for these climbs in their legs but not in their arms, back, and shoulders. So the biceps and upper back will experience a fairly large workout. The abdominal muscles will be very slightly used to maintain balance on the rock. As the walls get steeper, climbers will rely on their upper body strength more and use their legs less. This leads to an intense upper body workout. The reason for this is climbers will not be able to put as much force on their legs as they did when the wall was perpendicular to the ground. At this point the abdominal muscles will experience a large workout, from keeping the feet up on the wall. Once the holds start to get smaller, climbers will need to use their forearms more. The forearms are the muscles that give the fingers strength. The pectoral muscles will get a workout from moves that involve outstretched arms. Strengthening all the muscles required for climbing, yields a super human.
Learning about all these dangers of climbing, causes me to wonder how I am still mobile after climbing for so many years, and why I continue to climb given all the potential dangers. I then realized that I am still strong and functioning well because the longer I climb, I am “more aware of when to push it and when not to” (Cork). In my interview with Jim Lindenauer, he presents an example of a man who has flexor tendonitis which confirms that new climbers may not know when to stop. “This guy started a year ago. He took things on too quickly and did a lot of climbing really quickly.” This led to his injury. Even if I were prone to most of these injuries, I still would climb because of the countless benefits that climbing brings.
The research for this topic helped me create a climbing workout that was tough and aided me in preventing injuries. Every single task that I put into my workout, I reviewed to make sure that it would not result in an injury. From my extensive research, I was able to understand the additional exercises I need to do to prevent injuries. For example, in my research I found that not working the antagonist muscles can lead to many injuries. Therefore, in my workout I included many exercises that strengthen these antagonist muscles, like dips. I also found that overusing muscles in climbing is a big problem. To be able to gain muscle efficiently but not strain muscles, I learned to alternate the training of different set of muscles each day. My workout has been extremely effective: I have not experienced any injuries and my climbing skills have increased dramatically.
[Submitted by Evan Cronin]
Shoulder Reduction at 10,000 feet
By Richard Graziano
This past March, my wife Deanna and I, took a Wilderness First Responder (WFR) course. We had talked about doing so for years and knew that the training would be a wise investment given all the time we spend climbing in the wilderness contexts (locations that are two or more hours from definitive medical care). We know that not only might one of us suffer an injury, but the probability that we might find another person in need of help is seemingly high given the hazards that exist in the alpine environment. But, alas, like many things in life, procrastination got the best of us and we didn‘t sign up. Finally, we committed to taking it and it‘s a good thing we did.
Over this past Fourth of July weekend, I found myself in a situation in which that very training made all the difference in the world. Deanna and I were climbing a 5.7 variation on the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows. A climber above us on pitch 4 of the route, whom we‘ll call ‗JS‘, screamed out in pain. He felt said pain while trying to make a mantle move onto a belay ledge.
Amidst the cursing and anguish, he called down to me and asked for help. After determining that the scene was safe for both me and JS (the first step in the response process), I climbed up to him, got him to a safe place on the ledge and helped him sit down. I told him that I‘m a WFR and asked if he wanted me to take a look at what might be going on with his shoulder. With his consent, I conducted a bilateral evaluation of his shoulders and determined that the shoulder was likely dislocated. Since the injury to the joint was caused by an indirect force, I told him that I am certified to reduce the dislocation. I explained to him the process and pain relief benefits. He asked me to do it; so I helped him to a lying down position (thankfully it was a big ledge) and started the reduction process.
Although the process can take up to ten minutes, in this case, it only took two minutes or so to reduce the injury. As expected, JS felt immediate relief from the pain. Given the nature of the injury and likely anticipated problems, I recommended that I sling and swathe the arm, and then haul him the remainder of the climb. (Thankfully I was only looking at forty feet or so, which with a 5:1 mechanical advantage pulley system isn‘t all that terrible.) JS expressed that he didn‘t want to be rescued any more than necessary, so he said he was going to try to climb the remainder by himself. I told him that my offer stood if he changed his mind. He was able to work through the remainder of the climb (a moderate 5.6 crack) and “top out” with his climbing partner.
I‘ve thought a lot about this situation since then only to realize how things would have been very different had Deanna and I not taken the WFR course. JS has since told me that he doesn‘t know what he would have done had Deanna and I not been there. Had I not had the training, I would have likely descended and contacted YOSAR. As you can see, however, seeking the assistance of YOSAR was not really necessary. Not only did the WFR course give us the specific tools to deal with such emergencies, but I have never felt more competent to provide medical care in wilderness context or otherwise. (What is more, the course helped me in such a way that I didn‘t suffer any Acute Stress Reaction (ASR), sympathetic or otherwise!) That said, I want to encourage those of us who spend time in wilderness contexts to get their WFR certification. It isn‘t an inexpensive course, but if you find yourself in a situation in which you or another is need of medical attention, you‘ll be absolutely glad that you took it.
OSHA Fall Arrest Systems Specification
Ensure that personal fall arrest systems will, when stopping a fall:
· Limit maximum arresting force to 1,800 pounds.
· Be rigged such that an employee can neither free fall more than 6 feet nor contact any lower level.
· Bring an employee to a complete stop and limit maximum deceleration distance to 3½ feet.
· Have sufficient strength to withstand twice the potential impact energy of a worker free falling a distance of 6 feet, or the free fall distance permitted by the system, whichever is less
Remove systems and components from service immediately if they have been subjected to fall impact, until inspected by a competent person and deemed undamaged and suitable for use.
Promptly rescue employees in the event of a fall, or assure that they are able to rescue themselves. AUGUST 2009 Journal of Mountaineering ® 20 of 86
Inspect systems before each use for wear, damage, and other deterioration, and remove defective components from service.
Do not attach fall arrest systems to guardrail systems or hoists.
Rig fall arrest systems to allow movement of the worker only as far as the edge of the walking/working surface, when used at hoist areas.
Snow Blindness
Snow blindness is a painful eye condition, caused by exposure of unprotected eyes to the ultraviolet (UV) rays in bright sunlight reflected from snow. Fresh snow reflects about 80% of UV.
Snow blindness is similar to sunburn and may not be noticed for several hours after exposure. Snow blindness can develop in as little as 20 minutes, but symptoms may not begin until 6 to 10 hours after UV exposure.
Symptoms can run from eyes being bloodshot and teary to increased pain, feeling gritty and swelling shut. In very severe cases, snow blindness can cause permanent vision loss.
To prevent snow blindness, people who are at risk are recommended to use sunglasses that transmit 5-10% of visible light and absorb almost all UV rays. Additionally, these glasses should have side shields to avoid incidental light exposure. Sunglasses should always be worn, even when the sky is overcast as UV rays can pass through clouds.
If snow blindness does occur, treatment consists of topical anesthetics applied in eye drops and the use of cold wet compresses. Further injury should be avoided by isolation in dark room, removing contact lenses, not rubbing the eyes, and wearing sunglasses until the symptoms disappear completely.
Treatments:
Chloramphenicol (brand names: Chloroptic, Chloroptic S.O.P., AK-Chlor, Chloromycetin Ophthalmic, Ocu-Chlor) Chloramphenicol is an antibiotic. The ophthalmic form of chloramphenicol is used to treat bacterial infections of the eyes.
Tetracaine Ophthalmic (prescription), Proparacaine and Tetracaine are local anesthetics that are used in the eye to cause numbness or loss of feeling.
Cyclopentolate (Cyclogyl®) (prescription) causes the pupils in your eyes to widen, so they won't respond to light. Remove contacts first; read instructions.
Recoveries are usually within 24 hours, with rest and light avoidance, but beware of secondary infection as snow blindness renders the eye vulnerable.
In the event of lost or damaged sunglasses, emergency goggles can be made by cutting slits in dark fabric, folded back duct tape, or cardboard with small slits in it tied around the head.
Equipment
The equipment described is produced by many different manufacturers; each item is produced and tested to high standards to ensure safety when used correctly. The weak link in the safety chain is the user. Care in performing preventative maintenance checks and proper training in the use of the equipment is paramount to ensuring safe operations. Equipment manufacturers provide recommendations on use and care. It is imperative to follow these instructions explicitly.
Footwear
Climbing shoes
These shoes are made with soft leather uppers, a lace-up configuration, and a smooth "sticky rubber" sole. The smooth "sticky rubber" sole is the key to the climbing shoe, providing greater friction on the surface of the rock, allowing the climber access to more difficult terrain.
Approach Shoes
A technical approach shoe strikes a balance between hiking and climbing, enabling you to hike with a moderate load and get up a 5.6 ridgeline. You may be able to leave your rock shoes at home for moderate alpine rock climbs by using approach shoes.
Uppers are typically made of combinations of leather and synthetic materials. Some manufacturers place a premium on durability, while others look toward breathability and comfort. The laces should extend as far as possible down the toe box toenables you to tighten the shoe around your forefoot. Sticky-rubber toe rands are also a necessity for crack climbing and increased durability.
These shoes have sticky rubber on the sole. While the stickiness of the rubber certainly plays a role in climbing and scrambling, the lug pattern and thickness are also important. A lug pattern for trail hiking and scrambling can interfere with actual climbing as large lugs can skate and catch rather than smearing smoothly.
Light Hiking Boots
These boots are designed principally for day hiking. They focus on light weight, flexibility, comfort and breathability. As a result, they are less supportive and durable than other options. These boots generally can be used in hot weather where ankle support is required. In general they are not used with crampons.
Three Season Boots
Three season boots will typically accept a crampon and be water resistant. They may be too hot in mid summer and too cold in winter although they may be suitable for snow shoeing in fair weather.
Mountaineering Boots
Mountaineering boots will typically be insulated against cold and waterproof. They will also contain a full shank to provide a solid crampon base for front pointing. They will generally be step in crampon compatible (accept toe bail) and have a rubber rand for protection and have an integrated gaiter. These boots are typically recommended for lower altitude non-arctic mountaineering such as found in the “lower 48” states in the United States.
Double Boots
These boots include an inner boot that provides substantial insulation against the cold. The inner boot may or may not come with a breathable membrane. The outer boot is sometimes made of molded plastic (usually with a lace-up configuration) with a lug sole. The welt of the boot is molded in such a way that crampons, ski bindings, and snowshoes are easily attached. These boots may be suitable for high altitude and arctic climbing.
8000 Meter Boots
These boots are designed for maximum protection from the cold and low oxygen environments such as found on 8000 meter peaks such as Mt. Everest. They are double boots with an integrated gaiter and can be quite expensive; but what are a few toes:
Clothing
Clothing is perhaps the most underestimated and misunderstood equipment. The clothing system refers to every piece of clothing placed against the skin, the insulation layers, and the outer most garments, which protect from the elements. When clothing is worn properly, the climber is better able to accomplish tasks. When worn improperly, he is, at best, uncomfortable and, at worst, develops hypothermia or frostbite.
Socks
Socks are an under-appreciated part of the clothing system. Socks are extremely valuable in many respects, if worn correctly. As a system, socks provide cushioning for the foot, remove excess moisture, and provide insulation from cold temperatures. Improper wear and excess moisture are the biggest causes of hot spots and blisters.
(1) The first layer should be a hydrophobic material that moves moisture from the foot surface to the outer sock.
(2) The outer sock should also be made of hydrophobic materials, but should be complimented with materials that provide cushioning and abrasion resistance.
(3) A third layer can be added depending upon the climatic conditions.
(a) In severe wet conditions, a waterproof type sock can be added to reduce the amount of water that would saturate the foot. This layer would be worn over the first two layers if conditions were extremely wet.
(b) In extremely cold conditions a vapor barrier sock can be worn either over both of the original pairs of socks or between the hydrophobic layer and the insulating layer. If the user is wearing VB boots, the vapor barrier sock is not recommended.
Underwear
Underwear should also be made of materials that move moisture from the body. The primary material in this product is polyester or a wool blend, which moves moisture from the body to the outer layers keeping the user drier and more comfortable in all climatic conditions. In colder environments, several pairs of long underwear of different thickness should be made available. A lightweight set coupled with a heavyweight set will provide a multitude of layering combinations.
Insulating Layers
Insulating layers are those layers that are worn over the underwear and under the outer layers of clothing. Insulating layers provide additional warmth when the weather turns bad. For the most part, today's insulating layers will provide for easy moisture movement as well as trap air to increase the insulating factor. Pile or fleece insulating layers are appropriate for wet conditions whereas down can be lighter provided dry conditions (down provides no warmth when wet). Some models have hoods which provide significant additional warmth:
Outer Layers/Shells
The outside layer usually consists of a jacket and pants made of a durable waterproof fabric. Both are constructed with a nylon shell with a laminated breathable membrane attached. The membrane allows the garment to release moisture to the environment while the nylon shell provides a degree of water resistance against rain and snow. The nylon also acts as a barrier to wind, which helps the garment retain the warm air trapped by the insulating layers.
The garment should include an adjustable hood large enough to cover your helmet. Suspenders for pants help keep them in place. Pants should have integrated cuffs. Some have full or partial zippers on the side or rear.
Note: Cotton layers must not be included in any layer during operations in a cold environment.
High Altitude Jackets
High altitude jackets will include interior pockets for water bottles so they do not freeze: These garments are constructed with baffles between the inner and outer layer eliminating cold spots found when the layers are simply stitched together via seams. These jackets are excellent for belaying while ice climbing as well. They have elastic cuffs and various drawstrings to keep you sealed in.
Suites are warmer than jackets as they provide a better seal against the weather:
Gaiters
Gaiters are used to protect the lower leg from snow and ice, as well as mud, twigs, and stones. The use of waterproof fabrics or other breathable materials laminated to the nylon makes the gaiter an integral component of the cold weather clothing system. Gaiters are available in three styles (Figure 3-3).
Figure 3-3. Three types of gaiters.
(1) The most common style of gaiter is the open-toed variety, which is a nylon shell that may or may not have a breathable material laminated to it. The open front allows the boot to slip easily into it and is closed with a combination of zipper, hook-pile tape, and snaps. It will have an adjustable neoprene strap that goes under the boot to keep it snug to the boot. The length should reach to just below the knee and will be kept snug with a drawstring and cord lock.
(2) The second type of gaiter is referred to as a full or randed gaiter. This gaiter completely covers the boot down to the welt. It can be laminated with a breathable material and can also be insulated if necessary. This gaiter is used with plastic mountaineering boots and can be glued in place and not removed.
(3) The third type of gaiter is specific to high-altitude mountaineering or extremely cold temperatures and is referred to as an over boot. It is worn completely over the boot and must be worn with crampons because it has no traction sole.
Hand Wear
Hand wear is extremely important. Even during the best climatic conditions, temperatures in the mountains will dip below the freezing point. While mittens are always warmer than gloves, the finger dexterity needed to do most tasks makes gloves the primary cold weather hand wear.
The principals that apply to clothing also apply to gloves and mittens. They should provide moisture transfer from the skin to the outer layers—the insulating layer must insulate the hand from the cold and move moisture to the outer layer. The outer layer must be weather resistant and breathable. Both gloves and mittens should be required for all climbers, as well as replacement liners for both. This will provide enough flexibility to accomplish all tasks and keep the users' hands warm and dry.
Just as the clothing system is worn in layers, gloves and mittens work best using the same principle. Retention cords that loop over the wrist work extremely well when the wearer needs to remove the outer layer to accomplish a task that requires fine finger dexterity. Leaving the glove or mitten dangling from the wrist ensures the garment will not be lost.
Spare pairs should be carried, in case of loss, to prevent frostbite. Gloves and mittens can be lost in falls.
Liner Gloves:
Liner gloves can be worn singly in moderate temperatures and be act as a emergency spare pare. Usually however they are worn underneath a heavier glove or mitten:
Light Weight Gloves:
Light weight windproof fleece gloves can be used on their own or as a liner under a hard shell for more technical applications. These gloves may have a pittards suede palm patch for durability gripping ski poles etc. Worn under hard shell mittens creates a water proof and yet breathable system.
Ice Climbing Gloves:
For technical ice and mixed pitches ice climbing gloves, with a fleece lining, keep your hands warm without inhibiting the dexterity you need for technical moves and gear placements. These gloves may have a stretch Schoeller soft shell with a waterproof breathable membrane to provide moisture protection. Typically the glove will be reinforced with leather palms and have padding on the knuckles to protect them from the ice.
Mittens:
For extremely cold conditions mittens are required to prevent frostbite. The mittens with have multiple layers and reinforcements. These mittens include a liner mitt that comes out so you can wear the shell in milder conditions, and the liner can be used for doing small tasks around camp. An extra-long gauntlet is needed to cinch over bulky jackets.
Headwear
A large majority of heat loss (25 percent) occurs through the head and neck area. The most effective way to counter heat loss is to wear a hat. Natural fibers, predominately wool, are acceptable but can be bulky and difficult to fit under a helmet. As with clothes and hand wear, man-made fibers are preferred. For colder climates a neck gaiter can be added. The neck gaiter is a tube of man-made material that fits around the neck and can reach up over the ears and nose. For extreme cold, a balaclava can be added. This covers the head, neck, and face leaving only a slot for the eyes (Figure 3-5). Worn together, the combination is warm and provides for moisture movement, keeping the wearer drier and warmer.
Neck gaiter and balaclava.
Helmets
Helmets should be designed specifically for mountaineering and adjustable so the user can add a hat or balaclava under it when needed. The helmet should have ventilation holes that can accept purpose made plugs (or use duct tape) in the event of extreme cold.
Eyewear
Glacier glasses are sunglasses that cover the entire eye socket. Many trips in the mountains occur above the tree line or on ice and snow surfaces where the harmful UV rays of the sun can bombard the eyes from every angle increasing the likelihood of snow blindness.
Goggles should be antifogging. Double or triple lenses work best. UV rays penetrate clouds so the goggles should be UV protected.
Both glacier glasses and goggles are required equipment in the mountains. The lack of either one can lead to severe eye injury or blindness.
Models with photochromic lenses adjusts to varying levels of light (from 82% to 97% of visible light blocked) which helps when clouds move in.
Clear lenses should be used at night, to protect the eyes from snow/ice and dirt.
Rope, Cord, Webbing, and Harnesses
Ropes and Cord
Ropes and cords are important pieces of mountaineering equipment, and proper selection deserves careful thought. These items are your lifeline in the mountains, so selecting the right type and size is of the utmost importance. All ropes and cord used in mountaineering and climbing today are constructed with the same basic configuration. The construction technique is referred to as Kern mantle, which is, essentially, a core of nylon fibers protected by a woven sheath.
Kernmantle construction.
Ropes come in two types: static and dynamic. This refers to their ability to stretch under tension. A static rope has very little stretch, perhaps as little as one to two percent, and is best used in rope installations. A dynamic rope is most useful for climbing and general mountaineering. Its ability to stretch up to 1/3 of its overall length makes it the right choice any time the user might take a fall. Dynamic and static ropes come in various diameters and lengths. For most applications, a standard 10.5- or 11-millimeter by 60-meter dynamic rope and 10.5-millimeter by 60-meter static rope will be sufficient.
When choosing dynamic rope, factors affecting rope selection include intended use, impact force, abrasion resistance, and elongation. Regardless of the rope chosen, it should be UIAA certified.
Cord or small diameter rope is indispensable to the mountaineer. Its many uses make it a valuable piece of equipment. All cord is static and constructed in the same manner as larger rope. If used for Prussic knots, the cord's diameter should be 5 to 7 millimeters when used on an 11-mm rope.
Webbing and Slings
Loops of tubular webbing or cord, called slings or runners, are the simplest pieces of equipment and some of the most useful. The uses for these simple pieces are endless, and they are a critical link between the climber, the rope, carabiners, and anchors. Runners are predominately made from either 9/16-inch or 1-inch tubular webbing and are either tied or sewn by a manufacturer. Runners can also be made from a high-performance fiber known as spectra, which is stronger, more durable, and less susceptible to ultraviolet deterioration. Runners should be retired regularly following the same considerations used to retire a rope. For most applications, a combination of different lengths of runners is adequate.
Tied runners have certain advantages over sewn runners—they are inexpensive to make, can be untied and threaded around natural anchors, and can be untied and retied to other pieces of webbing to create extra long runners.
Sewn runners have their own advantages—they tend to be stronger, are usually lighter, and have less bulk than the tied version. They also eliminate a major concern with the homemade knotted runner—the possibility of the knot untying. Sewn runners come in different standard lengths.
Tied and Sewn Runners.
Harnesses
Years ago climbers secured themselves to the rope by wrapping the rope around their bodies and tying a bowline-on-a-coil. While this technique is still a viable way of attaching to a rope, the practice is no longer encouraged because of the increased possibility of injury from a fall. The bowline-on-a-coil is best left for low-angle climbing or an emergency situation where harness material is unavailable. Climbers today can select from a wide range of manufactured harnesses. Fitted properly, the harness should ride high on the hips and have snug leg loops to better distribute the force of a fall to the entire pelvis. This type of harness, referred to as a seat harness, provides a comfortable seat for rappelling.
Any harness selected should have one very important feature—a double-passed buckle. This is a safety standard that requires the waist belt to be passed over and back through the main buckle a second time. At least 2 inches of the strap should remain after double-passing the buckle.
Another desirable feature on a harness is adjustable leg loops, which allows a snug fit regardless of the number of layers of clothing worn. Adjustable leg loops allow the climber to make a latrine call without removing the harness or untying the rope.
Equipment loops are desirable for carrying pieces of climbing equipment. For safety purposes always follow the manufacturer's directions for tying-in.
A field-expedient version of the seat harness can be constructed by using 22 feet of either 1-inch or 2-inch (preferred) tubular webbing. Two double-overhand knots form the leg loops, leaving 4 to 5 feet of webbing coming from one of the leg loops. The leg loops should just fit over the clothing. Wrap the remaining webbing around the waist ensuring the first wrap is routed through the 6- to 10-inch long strap between the double-overhand knots. Finish the waist wrap with a water knot tied as tightly as possible. With the remaining webbing, tie a square knot without safeties over the water knot ensuring a minimum of 4 inches remains from each strand of webbing.
The full body harness incorporates a chest harness with a seat harness (Figure 3-10). This type of harness has a higher tie-in point and greatly reduces the chance of flipping backward during a fall. While these harnesses are safer, they do present several disadvantages—they are more expensive, are more restrictive, and increase the difficulty of adding or removing clothing. Most mountaineers prefer to incorporate a separate chest harness with their seat harness, when warranted.
(6) A separate chest harness can be purchased from a manufacturer, or a field-expedient version can be made from either two runners or a long piece of webbing. Either chest harness is then attached to the seat harness with a carabiner and a length of webbing or cord.
Seat harness, field-expedient harness, and full body harness.
Hardware
Climbing hardware refers to all the parts and pieces that allow the trained mountain climber to accomplish many tasks in the mountains.
Carabiners
One of the most versatile pieces of equipment available to the mountaineer is the carabiner. This simple piece of gear is the critical connection between the climber, his rope, and the protection attaching him to the mountain. Carabiners must be strong enough to hold hard falls, yet light enough for the climber to easily carry a quantity of them. Today's high tech metal alloys allow carabiners to meet both of these requirements. Steel is still widely used, but is not preferred for general mountaineering, given other options. Basic carabiner construction affords the user several different shapes. The oval, the D-shaped, and the pear-shaped carabiner are just some of the types currently available. Most models can be made with or without a locking mechanism for the gate opening. If the carabiner does have a locking mechanism, it is usually referred to as a locking carabiner. When using a carabiner, great care should be taken to avoid loading the carabiner on its minor axis and to avoid three-way loading. Great care should be used to ensure all carabiner gates are closed and locked during use.
Nonlocking and locking carabiners
Major and minor axes and three-way loading
The major difference between the oval and the D-shaped carabiner is strength. Because of the design of the D-shaped carabiner, the load is angled onto the spine of the carabiner thus keeping it off the gate. The down side is that racking any gear or protection on the D-shaped carabiner is difficult because the angle of the carabiner forces all the gear together making it impossible to separate quickly.
The pear-shaped carabiner, specifically the locking version, is excellent for clipping a descender or belay device to the harness. They work well with the Munter hitch belaying knot.
Regardless of the type chosen, all carabiners should be UIAA tested. This testing is extensive and tests the carabiner in three ways—along its major axis, along its minor axis, and with the gate open.
Quickdraws
Quickdraws are used to connect the climbing rope to bolt anchors or other protection, while lead climbing. Outdoors or indoors, the top, straight carabiner is clipped to an anchor on the wall, leaving the bottom, bent gate carabiner for the climber's rope, allowing the rope to run freely.
A quickdraw consists of two carabiners connected by a sewn loop of webbing referred to as dogbones. The webbing can be of any length, but is usually 12 cm (5") to 30 cm (12") in length. Quickdraws can be assembled from carabiners and slings, or are available pre-assembled from many manufacturers. Quickdraws are available with a wide variety to carabiner styles and sling lengths, to suit different applications and tastes. In the United States, quickdraws are often abbreviated to draws.
Outdoors they can be used on sport climbs where rope drag will not be an issue. If rope drag becomes an issue you will need to extend the draw. Quickdraws are usually fixed in place at indoor climbing gyms.
Quickdraws are also used for ice climbing where rope drag is seldom an issue.
Pitons
A piton is a metal pin that is hammered into a crack in the rock. They are described by their thickness, design, and length. Pitons provide a secure anchor for a rope attached by a carabiner. The many different kinds of pitons include: vertical, horizontal, wafer, and angle. They are made of malleable steel, hardened steel or other alloys. The strength of the piton is determined by its placement rather than its rated tensile strength. The two most common types of pitons are: blades, which hold when wedged into tight-fitting cracks, and angles, which hold blade compression when wedged into a crack.
Various Pitons
Vertical Pitons:
On vertical pitons, the blade and eye are aligned. These pitons are used in flush, vertical cracks.
Horizontal Pitons:
On horizontal pitons, the eye of the piton is at right angles to the blade. These pitons are used in flush, horizontal cracks and in offset or open-book type vertical or horizontal cracks. They are recommended for use in vertical cracks instead of vertical pitons because the torque on the eye tends to wedge the piton into place. This provides more holding power than the vertical piton under the same circumstances.
Wafer Pitons:
These pitons are used in shallow, flush cracks. They have little holding power and their weakest points are in the rings provided for the carabiner.
Knife Blade Pitons:
These are used in direct-aid climbing. They are small and fit into thin, shallow cracks. They have a tapered blade that is optimum for both strength and holding power.
RURPS:
Realized ultimate reality pitons (RURPs) are hatchet-shaped pitons about 1-inch square. They are designed to bite into thin, shallow cracks.
Angle Pitons:
These are used in wide cracks that are flush or offset. Maximum strength is attained only when the legs of the piton are in contact with the opposite sides of the crack.
Bong Pitons:
These are angle pitons that are more than 3.8 centimeters wide. Bongs are commonly made of steel or aluminum alloy and usually contain holes to reduce weight and accommodate carabiners. They have a high holding power and require less hammering than other pitons.
Skyhook (Cliffhangers):
These are small hooks that cling to tiny rock protrusions, ledges, or flakes. Skyhooks require constant tension and are used in a downward pull direction. The curved end will not straighten under body weight. The base is designed to prevent rotation and aid stability.
Piton Hammer
A piton hammer has a flat metal head; a handle made of wood, metal, or fiberglass; and a blunt pick on the opposite side of the hammer. A safety lanyard of nylon cord, webbing, or leather is used to attach it to the climber. The lanyard should be long enough to allow for full range of motion. Most hammers are approximately 25.5 centimeters long and weigh 12 to 25 ounces. The primary use for a piton hammer is to drive pitons, to be used as anchors, into the rock. The piton hammer can also be used to assist in removing pitons, and in cleaning cracks and rock surfaces to prepare for inserting the piton. The type selected should suit individual preference and the intended use.
Piton Hammers
Stoppers/Chocks
Chocks are essentially a tapered metal wedge constructed in various sizes to fit different sized openings in the rock. The design of a chock will determine whether it fits into one of two categories—wedges or cams. A wedge holds by wedging into a constricting crack in the rock. A cam holds by slightly rotating in a crack, creating a camming action that lodges the chock in the crack or pocket. Some chocks are manufactured to perform either in the wedging mode or the camming mode. One of the chocks that falls into the category of both a wedge and cam is the hexagonal-shaped or "hex" chock. This type of chock is versatile and comes with either a cable loop or is tied with cord or webbing. All chocks come in different sizes to fit varying widths of cracks. Most chocks come with a wired loop that is stronger than cord and allows for easier placement. Bigger chocks can be threaded with cord or webbing if the user ties the chock himself. The cord used with chocks is designed to be stiffer and stronger than regular cord and is typically made of Kevlar. The advantage of using a chock rather than a piton is that a climber can carry many different sizes and use them repeatedly.
Three-Point Camming Device
The three-point camming device's unique design allows it to be used both as a camming piece and a wedging piece. Because of this design it is extremely versatile and, when used in the camming mode, will fit a wide range of cracks. The three-point camming device comes in several different sizes with the smaller sizes working in pockets that no other piece of gear would fit in.
Three-point camming device.
Spring-Loaded Cam Devices
Spring-loaded cam devices (SLCDs) provide convenient, reliable placement in cracks where standard chocks are not practical (parallel or flaring cracks or cracks under roofs). SLCDs have three or four cams rotating around a single or double axis with a rigid or semi-rigid point of attachment. These are placed quickly and easily, saving time and effort. SLCDs are available in many sizes to accommodate different size cracks. Each fits a wide range of crack widths due to the rotating cam heads. The shafts may be semi-rigid cable loops.
Spring-loaded camming devices.
Chock Picks
Chock picks are primarily used to extract chocks from rock when they become severely wedged. They are also handy to clean cracks with. When using a chock pick to extract a chock be sure no force is applied directly to the cable juncture. One end of the chock pick should have a hook to use on jammed SLCDs.
Chock picks.
Bolts
Bolts are screw-like shafts made from metal that are drilled into rock to provide protection (Figure 3-19). The two types are contraction bolts and expansion bolts. Contraction bolts are squeezed together when driven into a rock. Expansion bolts press around a surrounding sleeve to form a snug fit into a rock. Bolts require drilling a hole into a rock, which is time-consuming, exhausting, and extremely noisy. Once emplaced, bolts are the most secure protection for a multidirectional pull. Bolts should be used only when chocks and pitons cannot be placed. A bolt is hammered only when it is the nail or self-driving type.
(1) A hanger (for carabiner attachment) and nut are placed on the bolt. The bolt is then inserted and driven into the hole. Because of this requirement, a hand drill must be carried in addition to a piton hammer. Hand drills (also called star drills) are available in different sizes, brands, and weights. A hand drill should have a lanyard to prevent loss.
(2) Self-driving bolts are quicker and easier to emplace. These require a hammer, bolt driver, and drilling anchor, which is driven into the rock. A bolt and carrier are then secured to the emplaced drilling anchor. All metal surfaces should be smooth and free of rust, corrosion, dirt, and moisture. Burrs, chips, and rough spots should be filed smooth and wire-brushed or rubbed clean with steel wool. Items that are cracked or warped indicate excessive wear and should be discarded.
Figure 3-19. Bolts and hangers.
Belay Devices
Belay devices range from the least equipment intensive (the body belay) to high-tech metal alloy pieces of equipment. Regardless of the belay device chosen, the basic principal remains the same—friction around or through the belay device controls the ropes' movement. Belay devices can be divided into categories: slot, tube, mechanical camming device, and auto block. All belay devices can be used as descending devices.
The slot is a piece of equipment that attaches to a locking carabiner in the harness; a bight of rope slides through the slot and into the carabiner for the belay. The most common slot type belay device is the Sticht plate.
The tube is used exactly like the slot but its shape is more like a cone or tube.
The mechanical camming device is a manufactured piece of equipment that attaches to the harness with a locking carabiner. The rope is routed through this device so that when force is applied the rope is cammed into a highly frictioned position.
Slot, tube, mechanical camming device.
Auto block belay devices are set up on an anchor with an additional carabiner. Two followers can be belayed at once and there is no need to escape the belay in the event of an incident. Releasing a loaded auto blocking device requires practice:
Auto block devices
Ascenders
Ascenders may be used in other applications such as a personal safety or hauling line cam. All modern ascenders work on the principle of using a cam-like device to allow movement in one direction. Ascenders are primarily made of metal alloys and come in a variety of sizes. For difficult vertical terrain, two ascenders work best. For lower angle movement, one ascender is sufficient. Most manufacturers make ascenders as a right and left-handed pair.
Ascenders
Pulleys
Pulleys are used to change direction in rope systems and to create mechanical advantage in hauling systems. A pulley should be small, lightweight, and strong. They should accommodate the largest diameter of rope being used. Pulleys are made with several bearings, different-sized sheaves (wheel), and metal alloy side plates. Plastic pulleys should always be avoided. The side plate should rotate on the pulley axle to allow the pulley to be attached at any point along the rope. For best results, the sheave diameter must be at least four times larger than the rope's diameter to maintain high rope strength.
Pulleys
Snow and Ice Hardware
Snow and ice climbing hardware is the equipment that is particular to operations in some mountainous terrain. Specific training on this type of equipment is essential for safe use. Terrain that would otherwise be inaccessible-snowfields, glaciers, and frozen waterfalls-can now be considered avenues of approach using the snow and ice climbing gear listed in this paragraph.
Ice Ax
The ice ax is one of the most important tools for the mountaineer operating on snow or ice. The climber must become proficient in its use and handling. The versatility of the ax lends itself to balance, step cutting, probing, self-arrest, belays, anchors, direct-aid climbing, and ascending and descending snow and ice covered routes.
Several specific parts comprise an ice ax: the shaft, head (pick and adze), and spike.
(a) The shaft (handle) of the ax comes in varying lengths (the primary length of the standard mountaineering ax is 70 centimeters). They are made of fiberglass or aluminum (antique axes have wood shafts).
(b) The head of the ax, which combines the pick and the adze, can have different configurations. The pick should be curved slightly and have teeth at least one-fourth of its length. The adze, used for chopping, is perpendicular to the shaft. It can be flat or curved along its length and straight or rounded from side to side. The head can be of one-piece construction or have replaceable picks and adzes. The head should have a hole directly above the shaft to allow for a leash to be attached.
(c) The spike at the bottom of the ax is made of the same material as the head and comes in a variety of shapes.
Ice Tools
As climbing becomes more technical, a shorter ax is much more appropriate, and adding a second tool is a must when the terrain becomes vertical. The shorter ax has all the attributes of the longer ax, but it is anywhere from 40 to 55 centimeters long and can have a straight or bent shaft depending on the preference of the user.. They are used for technical ice and mixed climbing. Some have an adze while the others have a hammer face in addition to the pick. Some are of a leash less design. A straight bottom shaft allows for plunging in soft snow and a curved upper shaft will clear ice bulges. If you drop a leash less tool you will not see it again. Sometimes climbers attach a lanyard to their harness to prevent loss.
Crampons
Crampons are used when the footing becomes treacherous. They have multiple spikes on the bottom and spikes protruding from the front (Figure 3-25). Fit is the most important factor associated with crampon wear. The crampon should fit snugly on the boot with a minimum of 1 inch of front point protruding. Straps should fit snugly around the foot and any long, loose ends should be trimmed.
Figure 3-25. Crampons.
Aluminum crampons:
Aluminum crampons can be worn with your trail runners, backpacking boots, or snowboard boots for grip in icy conditions. The points maintain a natural stride and reduce snagging, whether you're hiking, adventure racing, ice-fishing, or salting the driveway.
Ten Point Crampons
Ten point crampons are suitable for glacier travel, and winter hiking.
Twelve Point Crampons:
Twelve point crampons are suitable for alpine climbing, ice & mixed climbing. Rigidity is achieved with full shank boots for maximum stiffness. When climbing vertical ice, without a full shank, your toes will bend upward causing the crampon to disengage.
Mono Point Crampons:
Mono point crampons are recommended for steep to vertical ice and mixed climbing. Sometimes the front point will not disengage immediately from the ice much like a pick.
Anti Snow Plates
Snowballing on crampons is a dangerous problem. Anti snow plates keeps snow from sticking to the bottom of your crampons, which can render them useless. They attach to the bottom of the crampons (manufacturer specific) and pop in and out as you walk thereby dislodging the snow.
Ice Screws
Ice screws provide protection for climbers in icy terrain. They are screwed into ice formations. Ice screws are made of chrome-molybdenum steel and vary in lengths from 11 centimeters to 40 centimeters. The eye is permanently affixed to the top of the ice screw. The tip consists of milled or hand-ground teeth, which create sharp points to grab the ice when being emplaced. The ice screw has right-hand threads to penetrate the ice when turned clockwise.
Ice Screws
When selecting ice screws, choose a screw with a large thread count and large hollow opening. The close threads will allow for ease in turning and better strength. The large hollow opening will allow snow and ice to slide through when turning.
Type I is 17 centimeters in length with a hollow inner tube.
Type II is 22 centimeters in length with a hollow inner tube.
Other variations are hollow alloy screws that have a tapered shank with external threads, which are driven into ice and removed by rotation.
Ice screws should be inspected for cracks, bends, and other deformities that may impair strength or function. If any cracks or bends are noticed, the screw should be discarded. A file may be used to sharpen the ice screw points. Steel wool should be rubbed on rusted surfaces and a thin coat of oil applied when storing steel ice screws.
Note: Ice screws should always be kept clean and dry. The threads and teeth should be protected and kept sharp for ease of application.
Wired Snow Anchors (Flukes)
The wired snow anchor (or fluke) provides security for climbers and equipment in operations involving steep ascents by burying the snow anchor into deep snow. The fluted anchor portion of the snow anchor is made of aluminum. The wired portion is made of either galvanized steel or stainless steel. Fluke anchors are available in various sizes—their holding ability generally increases with size. They are available with bent faces, flanged sides, and fixed cables.
Common types are:
Type I is 22 by 14 centimeters. Minimum breaking strength of the swaged wire loop is 600 kilograms.
Type II is 25 by 20 centimeters. Minimum breaking strength of the swaged wire loop is 1,000 kilograms.
The wired snow anchor should be inspected for cracks, broken wire strands, and slippage of the wire through the swage. If any cracks, broken wire strands, or slippage is noticed, the snow anchor should be recycled.
Snow Pickets
The snow picket is used in constructing anchors in snow and ice (Figure 3-28). The snow picket is made of a strong aluminum alloy 3 millimeters thick by 4 centimeters wide, and 45 to 90 centimeters long. They can be angled or T-section stakes. The picket should be inspected for bends, chips, cracks, mushrooming ends, and other deformities. The ends should be filed smooth.
Flukes and Pickets
Shelter
When selecting a shelter determine the number of people to accommodate.
Tarps
Tarps can be flat pieces of waterproof material with grommets to more elaborate sewn canopies erected with trekking poles:
Emergency Bivouac Sacs
These are inexpensive and designed primarily for single use in an emgency situation. They are an upgrade from “space” blankets which rip easily. They stuff to about the size of your fist and weight in less than four ounces. The reflect radiant head and stop the wind but do not insulate.
Bivy Sacs
For repeated use you will want a proper bivy sac which is both waterproof and breathable to protect you and your sleeping bag; the moisture should stay out and warmth stay in. The highly compressible designs takes up minimal space in your.
Single Wall Tents
The climate the tents will be used in is also of concern. A tent used for warmer temperatures will greatly differ from tents used in a colder, harsher environment. Manufacturers of tents offer many designs of different sizes, weights, and materials. Before using a new tent, the seams should be treated with seam sealer to prevent moisture from entering through the stitching. The frame of a tent is usually made of an aluminum or carbon fiber pole. The poles are connected with an elastic cord that allows them to extend, connect, and become long and rigid. When the tent poles are secured into the tent body, they create the shape of the tent. Tents are rated by a "relative strength factor," the speed of wind a tent can withstand before the frame deforms.
Mountaineering tents are made out of a breathable or weatherproof material. A single-wall tent allows for moisture inside the tent to escape through the tent's material. Condensation is often an issue for single wall tents necessitating leaving doors and windows open which in turn lowers the internal temperature. They are however lighter than double wall tents.
Double Wall Tents
A double-wall tent has a second layer of material (referred to as a fly) that covers the tent. The fly protects against rain and snow and the space between the fly and tent helps moisture to escape from inside. Three season double wall tents usually consist of a bug mesh interior with a waterproof floor and fly. Four season double wall tents will have solid interior walls that allows moisture through and a waterproof fly. These tents will be hot in the summer time.
Three Season Tent:
Four Season Tent:
Snow Shelters
This chapter explains how to build different snow shelters in the Antarctic, as well as the relative merits of each type of shelter and the time required to build each type of shelter. The choice of which shelter to build will be dictated by the local snow conditions. If a camp is occupied for several days, it’s a good idea
to build a snow shelter for an emergency shelter (just in
case). A snow shelter can be used also as a toilet shelter.
Snow Quarry and BlockCutting
Before you build a snow shelter, identify an area you can use as a quarry to cut snow blocks. The quarry site and the method of cutting blocks are important for the
success of most shelters. In many areas of Antarctica, the snow conditions are
perfect for cutting out snow blocks. However, some areas such as the Siple Coast may have sugar snow or powder snow. In these areas, your quarry will have to be stomped out and packed down (ski and boot packing works well), and the snow will have to be allowed to sinter (freeze solid). This can take up to an hour before the snow is solid enough for block cutting. Snow drifts
that contain good block-cutting snow can sometimes be found on sea ice or on hard frozen glaciers.
The snow conditions may change in just a few feet in your quarry. You may run into an ice layer or a sugar layer that will affect the quality of your blocks. If this happens, try cutting the blocks at a different orientation (horizontally versus vertically) or try cutting deeper in the quarry or simply moving over a few feet. Probe with your saw or axe for the right consistency. Don’t panic if you don’t have a snow saw. You can produce
good blocks with a shovel - even an ice axe will work.
Keep the quarry close to your shelter; don’t double the effort. If cutting blocks for a tent wall, the quarry excavation makes a great spot for your tent site. Blocks can be cut out of the snow shelter site (i.e., the snowtrench can be the quarry).
Try to cut your blocks the same size. Put one aside for a model. Rock-box size blocks are preferable for most projects except roofs.
Snow Walls
Snow walls provide wind-free areas for cooking and for community “lounging.” A snow wall should be built around mountaineering tents. This will keep the tent from blowing away in gale force winds, decrease wind chill, and reduce tent flapping noise. (Note: Snow walls
are not necessary when using Scott tents.) Snow-wall blocks should all be the same size, and eachblock should overlap the gaps in the course below it. Rock-box size blocks are preferable.
Snow Trenches (1/2 to 2 Hours)
A snow trench is a good, quick, simple shelter. The snow must be deep and soft enough to shovel to an adequate depth. If an ice layer stops shoveling progress, snow blocks can be stacked to increase the effective depth of the shelter. A trench can be a quick or “hasty” shelter in an emergency, or a cavernous, comfortable abode complete with sleeping benches and snow-block A-frame roof.
Trench with Snow-Block Roof
Choose a site with soft enough snow for digging. Mark an outline in the surface just slightly wider than your shoulders and 6 to 7 feet long.
Excavate the trench by cutting out blocks with a snow saw and/or by shoveling. (Blocks for the roof can come out of a separate quarry area.) It’s critical that the top of the trench “hole” be slightly wider than shoulder width - just wide enough to work in. If you make the trench too wide, you’ll have a difficult time roofing it with snow blocks. The trench should be waist deep to armpit deep, depending on snow conditions and the desired comfort for the inhabitants. If hard snow or an ice layer prevents you from digging to an adequate depth, build up the depth by making a wall around the excavation with large, stout snow blocks.
When the trench is deep enough, sleeping benches can be carved out of the sides. Be careful not to dig too close to the surface or the snow will be too weak to support roof blocks.
Roof blocks can be either laid flat across the trench or set up as an A-frame, which gives more head room. Roof blocks leaned A-framestyle can be staggered to support each successive block. Don’t worry about gaps or holes, as these can be filled in later with snow chunks.
Good dimensions for roof blocks are approximately 18" x 5" x 30", but let common sense and snow conditions dictate what size blocks to cut.
Finish the shelter by “chinking” the gaps with snow chunks and shoveling loose snow over the roof.
Trench with Tarpaulin Roof
A trench with a tarpaulin roof is the quickest shelter you can build. This is very important in an emergency.
1. The size of the trench you dig is dependent on the size of the covering and on the support items used to span the trench. Support items could include skis, ski poles, bamboo flags, rope(s) stretched tight, etc.
2. Span the trench with support items, cover with a tarp, and anchor the edges of the tarp with snow blocks or heavy equipment.
Improvise with trench coverings. A trench can be covered
with a tent fly, skidoo cowlings and covers, Nansen sleds, sled tanks, plywood,
pallets, cardboard, plastic, etc. 
3. Shovel a light skiff of snow over the tarp to add extra insulation; too much snow will collapse the tarp. Trenches make good frozen-food coolers. They also make good toilet
Snowmounds/Quinzhees (2 to 4 Hours)
Snowmounds (also known as quinzhees) are among the easiest snow shelters to build. All you need is enough surface snow to shovel into a big pile over packs or equipment. The tunnel entrance is then dug in, the gear removed, and the shelter hollowed out and enlarged.
1. Pile equipment in the deepest patch of snow available. Avoid unnecessarily flattening the site.
2. Standing well away from the equipment pile, shovel snow onto the center, burying the equipment. To increase the mound’s strength, pat the snow down as you proceed. The buried equipment must have a minimum of 2 feet of consolidated snow covering it. Probe all around the mound with an ice axe or ski pole and shovel snow on any thin spots
3. Dig into the mound on the downhill side or away from the wind to form an entrance. Dig down first and then back up into the shelter to create a cold air sump. The entrance should come up right near the wall. Be careful not to tunnel into the central sleeping area as this willwaste space.
4. Another temporary entrance dug opposite the main entrance and dug in at ground level will speed up the hollowing-out process by as much as an hour. This hole should then be blocked up after hollowing out is completed.
5. The equipment in the pile should be pulled out of the entrance(s), the inside of the shelter should be hollowed out carefully, and the floor dropped to increase the inside area. When you begin to see blue light, the walls are the correct
thickness (about 12 inches thick.)
6. A vent hole the diameter of a tennis ball should be poked through the ceiling before operating a stove inside the shelter.
Snow Caves (3 to 4 Hours)
A snow cave requires a sloping snow surface and snow that is well-compacted but soft enough to shovel. Wet or unconsolidated snow is liable to collapse. Given good conditions, a snow cave will provide roomy and comfortable shelter.
- Dig an entrance tunnel, about the diameter of a car tire, that extends at least 3 feet into a drift.
- Scoop out a platform at a level above the entrance tunnel to form a cold-air sump. The platform should be centered on the entrance tunnel and should be long enough and wide enough for all occupants. Remove excavated snow through the entrance. After scooping out the platform, hollow out a ceiling of a reasonable height.
A vent hole the diameter of a tennis ball should be poked through the ceiling before operating a stove inside the shelter.
Igloos (3 to 5 Hours)
Although igloos are by far the hardest shelters to build and should not be attempted in an emergency, they are warm, roomy, and aesthetically pleasing.
1. Choose a quarry site for your snow blocks. Snow should cut with an even consistency.
• Avoid blocks with a “curd-like” texture.
• Avoid blocks with a shear layer.
• In loose snow, the quarry area may have to be stomped out and allowed to set up.
2. Scribe a circle in the snow near the quarry site.
• Maximum diameter: 6 feet (widen it later).
• Leave a center marker (ice axe or tent peg).
3. Cut out the snow blocks.
• You’ll need 50 to 80 blocks.
• Calculate the ideal block size
Use SMC saw as a ruler:
Total saw (length) x 1/2 saw (width) x blade length (height)
4. Lay out the first flight of blocks.
• Cut the sides of each block so they point to the center as shown.
• Cut a spiral from ground level of the first block until the last 4 or 5 blocks are full size as shown.
• The top spiral cut must point toward the center marker (at ground level). Use your saw as a “sight/straightedge” as shown
5. Continue laying blocks over the first flight. (All the blocks are now full size.)
• Each flight of blocks is stacked slightly closer to the center as shown:
• Remember that side cuts are toward the center:
• Level off the top layer, using your saw as a straight edge to sight toward the center at ground
This brings the igloo progressively toward the center, which eventually closes it.
6. One person needs to stay inside the igloo with a saw and a small shovel, helping place each block.
• Don’t chink the blocks to make them fit.
• Only the block you’re working on needs to be held in place.
• As you build up, gently tamp the previously laid blocks in toward the center. This locks the blocks together.
• Never push out on the blocks; this unlocks them.
• The top edge of each flight should be smooth, with no bumps or steps.
7. The last block should be cut as a tapered “cork.” It is lowered to the person inside the igloo, who can cut the sides until it drops in snugly as shown.
8. The inside person should next dig down into the snow at the base of a wall and tunnel over to meet the entrance tunnel being dug by a person outside, as shown:
.
• Keep the entrance close to the wall to avoid using up sleeping area in the igloo.
• The entrance should be lower than the sleeping area to create a cold sink.
9. Hollow out the floor space in the igloo to increase the sleeping area. Chink and shovel snow over any gaps in the blocks.
Crevasses and Bergshrunds
Crevasses and bergshrunds, in emergency bivouac situations, can provide shelter which can be augmented by chopping out ledges. The utmost care must be taken to ensure the safety of you and your companions in such a dangerous bivouac. Although these shelters are very cold, you will be out of the wind if you choose a suitable site.
Additional Equipment
This paragraph describes all additional equipment not directly involved with climbing. This equipment is used for safety (avalanche equipment, wands), bivouacs, movement, and carrying gear. While not all of it will need to be carried, having the equipment available and knowing how to use it correctly will enable capability in mountainous terrain.
Snow Saw
The snow saw is used to cut into ice and snow. It can be used in step cutting, in shelter construction, for removing frozen obstacles, and for cutting snow stability test pits. The special tooth design of the snow saw easily cuts into frozen snow and ice. The blade is a rigid aluminum alloy of high strength about 3 millimeters thick and 38 centimeters long with a pointed end to facilitate entry on the forward stroke. The handle is either wooden or plastic and is riveted to the blade for a length of about 50 centimeters. The blade should be inspected for rust, cracks, warping, burrs, and missing or dull teeth. A file can repair most defects, and steel wool can be rubbed on rusted areas. The handle should be inspected for cracks, bends, and stability. On folding models, the hinge and nuts should be secure.
Snow Shovel
The snow shovel is used to cut and remove ice and snow. It can be used for avalanche rescue, shelter construction, step cutting, and removing obstacles. The snow shovel is made of a special, lightweight aluminum alloy. The handle should be telescopic, folding, or removable to be compact when not in use. The shovel should have a flat or rounded bottom and be of strong construction.
Wands
Wands are used to identify routes, crevasses, snow-bridges, caches, and turns on snow and glaciers. Spacing of wands depends on the number of turns, number of hazards identified, weather conditions (and visibility), and number of teams in the climbing party. Carrying too many wands is better than not having enough. Wands are 1 to 1.25 meters long and made of lightweight bamboo or plastic shafts pointed on one end with a plastic or nylon flag (bright enough in color to see at a distance) attached to the other end.
Avalanche Rescue Equipment
Avalanche rescue equipment includes the following:
Avalanche rescue equipment
Avalanche Probe. Although ski poles may be used as an emergency probe when searching for a victim in an avalanche, commercially manufactured probes are better for a thorough search. They are 9-millimeter thick shafts made of an aluminum alloy, which can be joined to probe up to 360 centimeters. The shafts must be strong enough to probe through avalanche debris. Some manufacturers of ski poles design poles that are telescopic and mate with other poles to create an avalanche probe.
Avalanche Transceivers. These are small, compact radios used to identify avalanche burial sites. They transmit electromagnetic signals that are picked up by another transceiver on the receive mode.
Packs
Many types and brands of packs are used for mountaineering. The two most common types are internal and external framed packs.
(1) Internal framed packs have a rigid frame within the pack that help it maintain its shape and hug the back. This assists the climber in keeping their balance as they climb or ski. The weight in an internal framed pack is carried low on the body assisting with balance. The body-hugging nature of this type pack also makes it uncomfortable in warm weather.
(2) External framed packs suspend the load away from the back with a ladder-like frame. The frame helps transfer the weight to the hips and shoulders easier, but can be cumbersome when balance is needed for climbing and skiing.
(3) Packs come in many sizes and should be sized appropriately for the individual according to manufacturer's specifications. Packs often come with many unneeded features. A good rule of thumb is: The simpler the pack, the better it will be.
Stoves
When selecting a stove one must define its purpose—will the stove be used for heating, cooking or both? Stoves or heaters for large elements can be large and cumbersome. Stoves for smaller elements might just be used for cooking and making water, and are simple and lightweight. Stoves are a necessity in mountaineering for cooking and making water from snow and ice. When choosing a stove the factors that should be considered are weight, altitude and temperature, where it will be used, fuel availability, and reliability.
There are many choices in stove design and in fuel types. White gas, kerosene, and butane are the common fuels used. All stoves require a means of pressurization to force the fuel to the burner. Stoves that burn white gas or kerosene have a hand pump to generate the pressurization and butane stoves have pressurized cartridges. All stoves need to vaporize the liquid fuel before it is burned. This can be accomplished by burning a small amount of fuel in the burner cup assembly, which will vaporize the fuel in the fuel line.
Stoves should be tested and maintained prior to a mountaineering mission. They should be easy to clean and repair during an operation. The reliability of the stove has a huge impact on the success of the mission and the morale of personnel.
Skis
Mountaineering skis have a binding that pivots at the toe and allows for the heel to be free for uphill travel or locked for downhill. Synthetic skins with fibers on the bottom can be attached to the bottom of the ski and allow the ski to travel forward and prevent slipping backward. The skins aid in traveling uphill and slow down the rate of descents. Wax can be applied to the ski to aid in ascents instead of skins. Skis can decrease the time needed to reach an objective depending on the ability of the user. Skis can make crossing crevasses easier because of the load distribution, and they can become a makeshift stretcher for casualties. Ski techniques can be complicated and require thorough training for adequate proficiency.
Snowshoes
Snowshoes are the traditional aid to snow travel that attach to most footwear and have been updated into small, lightweight designs that are more efficient than older models. Snowshoes offer a large displacement area on top of soft snow preventing tiresome post-holing. Some snowshoes come equipped with a crampon like binding that helps in ascending steep snow and ice. Snowshoes are slower than skis, but are better suited for mixed terrain, especially if personnel are not experienced with the art of skiing. When carrying a heavy pack, snowshoes are easier to use than skis.
Ski poles
Ski poles were traditionally designed to assist in balance during skiing. They have become an important tool in mountaineering for aid in balance while hiking, snowshoeing, and carrying heavy packs. They can take some of the weight off of the lower body when carrying a heavy pack. Some ski poles are collapsible for ease of packing when not needed. The basket at the bottom prevents the pole from plunging deep into the snow and, on some models, can be detached so the pole becomes an avalanche or crevasse probe. Some ski poles come with a self-arrest grip, but should not be the only means of protection on technical terrain.
Collapsible ski poles
Sleds
Sleds vary greatly in size. Sleds are an invaluable asset during mountainous operations when snow and ice is the primary surface on which to travel. Whichever sled is chosen, it must be attachable to the person or people that will be pulling it. Most sleds are constructed using fiberglass bottoms with or without exterior runners. Runners will aid the sleds ability to maintain a true track in the snow. The sled should also come with a cover of some sort—whether nylon or canvas, a cover is essential for keeping the components in the sled dry. Great care should be taken when packing the sled, especially when hauling fuel. Heavier items should be carried towards the rear of the sled and lighter items towards the front.
Headlamps
A headlamp is a small item that is not appreciated until it is needed. It is common to need a light source and the use of both hands during limited light conditions in mountaineering operations. A flashlight can provide light, but can be cumbersome when both hands are needed. Most headlamps attach to helmets by means of elastic bands.
When choosing a headlamp, ensure it is waterproof and the battery apparatus is small. All components should be reliable in extreme weather conditions. When the light is being packed, care should be taken that the switch doesn't accidentally activate and use precious battery life.
The battery source should complement the resupply available. Most lights will accept alkaline, nickel-cadmium, or lithium batteries. Alkaline battery life diminishes quickly in cold temperatures, nickel-cadmium batteries last longer in cold but require a recharging unit, and lithium batteries have twice the voltage so modifications are required.
Personal Gear
Personal gear includes emergency survival kit containing signaling material, fire starting material, food, and water procurement material. Pocket items should include a knife, whistle, pressure bandage, notebook with pen or pencil, sunglasses, sun block and lip protection, map, compass and or altimeter.
Team Safety Pack
Team safety gear should be carried in addition to individual day packs. This can either be loaded into one rucksack or cross-loaded among the members. In the event of an injury, casualty evacuation, or unplanned bivouac, these items may make the difference between success and failure.
· Sleeping bag
· Sleeping mat
· Stove and Fuel
· Spare sunglasses
Ten Essentials
Regardless of what equipment is carried, the individual mountaineer should always carry the "ten essentials" when moving through the mountains.
(1) Map.
(2) Compass, Altimeter, and or GPS.
(3) Sunglasses and Sunscreen.
(4) Food. One day's worth extra of food should be carried in case of delay caused by bad weather, injury, or navigational error.
(5) Clothing. Extra clothing includes additional layers needed to make it through the long, inactive hours of an unplanned bivouac. Keep in mind the season when selecting this gear: Extra underwear to switch out with sweat-soaked underwear. Extra hats or balaclavas. Extra pair of heavy socks. Extra pair of insulated mittens or gloves. Extra insulation for the upper body and the legs. Bring a poncho or extra-large plastic trash bag. A reflective emergency space blanket can be used for hypothermia first aid and emergency shelter. Insulated foam pads prevent heat loss while sitting or lying on snow. Finally, a bivouac sack can help by protecting insulating layers from the weather, cutting the wind, and trapping essential body heat inside the sack.
(6) Headlamp Spare batteries and spare bulbs should also be carried.
(7) First-aid Kit. Common mountaineering injuries are punctures and abrasions with severe bleeding, a broken bone, serious sprain, and blisters. The kit should contain at least enough material to stabilize these conditions. Pressure dressings, gauze pads, elastic compression wrap, small adhesive bandages, butterfly bandages, moleskin, adhesive tape, scissors, cleanser, latex gloves and splint material.
(8) Fire Starter. Fire starting material is key to igniting wet wood for emergency campfires. Candles, heat tabs, and canned heat all work. These can also be used for quick warming of water or soup in a canteen cup. In alpine zones above tree line with no available firewood, a stove works as an emergency heat source.
(9) Matches and Lighter. Lighters are handy for starting fires, but they should be backed up by matches stored in a waterproof container with a strip of sandpaper.
(10) Knife. A multipurpose pocket tool should be secured with cord.
Repair Kit
A repair kit should include:
· Stove tools and spare parts
· Duct tape
· Patches
· Safety pins
· Heavy-duty thread
· Awl and or needles
· Cord and or wire
· Small pliers (if not carrying a multipurpose tool)
· Other repair items as needed
· Insect Repellent
· Signaling Devices
Packing
When loading the internal frame pack the following points should be considered.
a. In most cases, speed and endurance are enhanced if the load is carried more by the hips (using the waist belt) and less by the shoulders and back. This is preferred for movement over trails or less difficult terrain. By packing the lighter, more compressible items (sleeping bag, clothing) in the bottom of the rucksack and the heavier gear (stove, food, water, rope, climbing hardware) on top, nearer the shoulder blades, the load is held high and close to the back, thus placing the most weight on the hips.
b. In rougher terrain it pays to modify the pack plan. Heavy articles of gear are placed lower in the pack and close to the back, placing more weight on the shoulders and back. This lowers the climber's center of gravity and helps him to better keep his balance.
c. Equipment that may be needed during movement should be arranged for quick access using either external pockets or placing immediately underneath the top flap of the pack. As much as possible, this placement should be standardized across the team so that necessary items can be quickly reached without unnecessary unpacking of the pack in emergencies.
d. The pack and its contents should be soundly waterproofed. Clothing and sleeping bag are separately sealed and then placed in the larger wet weather bag that lines the rucksack. Zip-lock plastic bags can be used for small items, which are then organized into color-coded stuffsacks. A few extra-large plastic garbage bags should be carried for a variety of uses—spare waterproofing, emergency bivouac shelter, and water procurement, among others.
e. The ice ax, if not carried in hand, should be stowed on the outside of the pack with the spike up and the adze facing forward or to the outside, and be securely fastened. Mountaineering packs have ice ax loops and buckle fastening systems for this. If not, the ice ax is placed behind one of the side pockets, as stated above, and then tied in place.
f. Crampons should be secured to the outside rear of the pack with the points covered.
Technique
Rope Swing Retrieval
The following method can be used to retrieve a rope swing. Attach a second line at the same elevation as the rope swing but offset from it. The second line should have a weight near the bottom and extend to the retrieval location where it is secured. The retrieval line is then swung in a circle such that the weight wraps the retrieval line around the rope swing, thus securing it so that it can be pulled in.
Incidents
Verlot, WA – Lindsey White – July 5, 2009
A Duvall climber slipped while on a snow field just below Monte Cristo Peak on Sunday and fell about 700 feet to her death.
The death of Lindsey White, 39, is the first climbing-related fatality in Snohomish County this year, Snohomish County sheriff's Sgt. Danny Wikstrom said.
"It's one too many," he said. "Hopefully, it will be the last one."
The Snohomish County Medical Examiner on Monday ruled White's death an accident.
White was climbing to the 7,136-feet summit Sunday morning, with her boyfriend, also 39 from Duvall, Wikstrom said.
Around 10:30 a.m. the couple was crossing a 40-degree snow slope a few hundred feet below the peak. White lost her footing, and tried to use her ice axe to stop her fall, but the snow was too soft, Wikstrom said.
Her boyfriend told officials he watched her fall.
"He heard her scream and saw her sliding down the snow," Wikstrom said.
The boyfriend was able to reach White but was unable to revive her. He then hiked about six hours to the ruins of the old Monte Cristo town where he alerted Forest Service rangers.
White was dead when sheriff's officials found her at the bottom of a cliff. They hoisted her body away in a helicopter, Wikstrom said.
Sunday's fatal fall wasn't the first time a climber has died on Monte Cristo, he said. A few years ago a University of Washington professor was climbing solo when he died.
"It can be a dangerous sport," Wikstrom said. "When something goes wrong it can be very unforgiving." By Jackson Holtz - Herald Writer – with permission
http://www.heraldnet.com/article/20090707/NEWS01/707079924&news01ad=1
Mammoth, CA – John Bachar – July 5, 2009
John Bachar fell while solo climbing at the Dike Wall, Mammoth Lakes, California. No one witnessed the fall. He leaves a son, Tyrus. John was 51 years old.
Nanga Parbat, PAK – Wolfgang Köblinger – July 10, 2009
03:57 pm CDT Jul 14, 2009
(K2Climb.net) In spite of climbing a new route with a small team of friends; ÖAV expedition leader Gerfied Göschl has managed to already post a complete report on the circumstances surrounding Wolfgang Köblinger‘s accident in the commercial part of his expedition.
Chronicle of July 10-11th events
Translation by ExWeb from Gerfried Göschl's blog
Wolfgang kicked off his summit bid from C4 (7,100m) at 3:30 am on Friday 10th, together with several team mates and three other expeditions.
Due to different pace, soon the distance grew between them. Georg Wenzl and Kilian Volken eventually turned around. Hans Wenzl summited at 1:45pm. Several other climbers followed. Skies were clear, but winds were high. Rick Allen and Alexander Allen topped-out at 3:00pm.
Through the afternoon, other team members turned around not far from the summit: Giuseppe Pompili, Peter Kanzian, Ronald Newerkla, Herbert Schütter and Michaela Landl.
They all met Wolfgang, climbing behind a 7-member Korean team, and suggested he should descend due to the late hour. Wolfgang decided to continue (he was highly experienced) and mentioned that he felt safe with the Koreans. He checked in with BC every hour until after 5:00pm; the deep cold possibly draining his batteries.
The Koreans said they all summited at 6:00pm, and that Wolfgang was happy and in good shape. Down in BC, we heard over the radio that the Koreans got in a critical situation while descending to C4.
We feared for Wolfgang, and started a rescue operation: three Pakistani climbers were dispatched at 9:00pm with medicines, O2, warm drinks and food towards the summit. Also some of our team members prepared to set off.
Saturday/Sunday
At 3:30 am on Saturday (when we still hoped Wolfgang was OK) the Pakistani guides returned empty-handed. At 5:00 am we saw lights descending: it was the seven-member Korean team but, to my surprise, Wolfgang was not with them.
For the first time, I assumed the situation was serious. Louis Rousseau and I set off and climbed as fast as we could. At 11.30 am (Ed note: Sunday?) we found Wolfgang‘s backpack with ice-axes and ski-poles attached at 8,064m. There was a typical track left by an uncontrolled fall – not far below we found a cap.
We took pictures of everything. On the way down, we looked in vain for further tracks – the ascending route crossed the face. Also Hans Goger, Herbert Schütter and Sepp Bachmair passed by the place that day – finding no further clues.
The Koreans said they summited in a strong storm. We found a mitten (which could be Wolfgang‘s) 100 meters below the place where we had found the backpack. We think Wolfgang may have been trying to retrieve warm clothes from his backpack after the summit, and lost balance due to exhaustion, exposure and the strong storm.
Below the incident‘s spot there is a 3000 meters tall face – so huge, that Wolfgang‘s body has not been spotted. We are positive that Wolfgang died on July 10th at 6:30 pm – there was no chance of survival."
Gerfried Göschl, Louis Rousseau, Herbert Schütter, Sepp Bachmair and Hans Goger summited Nanga Parbat Saturday after climbing a new route. "Gerfried's team departed towards the summit earlier today from C4, located at the point where the new route and the Kinshoffer route merge together," said Gerfried's home team at the time.
"Details on the events or Wolfgang's whereabout are still unclear," Gerfried's home team also reported that day. "All attempts to find him have been unsuccessful so far."
"Gerfried's group is safely back in BC," Göschl's home team added on Saturday. "All other team members, including yesterday's summiteers Hans Wenzl, Rick and Sandy, are on their way to BC and feeling all right - though deeply shocked."
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18511
Nanga Parbat, PAK – Go Mi-Sun – July 11, 2009
12:49 pm CDT Jul 12, 2009 (K2Climb.net)
Go Mi-Sun has been confirmed dead after she went missing on Nanga Parbat Saturday.
Details are not yet clear on what exactly caused the accident. Fellow mountaineers on the peak such as Italian Giuseppe Pompili were impressed by the lady climber, reporting she climbed strongly and summited on supplementary O2.
Go reportedly fell on descent at around 6200 meters and went missing close to camp 2. Korean media reports state that her remains have since been recovered.
Record climber
Go Mi-Sun, 41, (also spelled 'Ko Mi-young' by some of the local media) became known as a "dark horse" in the quest for the first female to summit all 14, 8000ers. With 11, 8000ers summited in a very short time, after Nanga Parbat she would only have the "easy" Gasherbrums 1 and 2 plus Annapurna on the list.
Beside the "female" aspect however; Miss Go had a number of overall world records in Himalayan mountaineering.
ExWeb's Himalaya statistician Rodrigo Granzotto Peron (Brazil) said in an email today that Miss Go was
- the first person to summit 3x8000ers in 3 consecutive years (2007, 2008 and 2009);
- had the fastest (72 days) ascent of 4 different main 8000ers (2009);
- and made the first ever triple-header in Himalaya (2009).
The climber further summited an astonishing seven 8000ers in 2008/2009: Lhotse, K2, Manaslu, Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri and Nanga Parbat.
Kim loses his mate
The fatal accident is a big blow to Go's regular climbing mate Kim Jae-Soo. Except for her first 8000er (Cho Oyu), Go Mi Sun had always climbed with Kim.
The two survived K2 together last year, but the tragedies on the mountain affected Go. Afterwards she told ExWeb's Karrar Haidri in Islamabad that her team Sherpa Jumik Bhote had called home to his pregnant wife over a satellite phone from the summit. After he died, the wife gave birth to a baby girl. "This was very upsetting to me," Go told Karrar.
At the time, Go told Karrar that she hoped to climb all 14, 8000ers by 2011, but shortly after Go sped up her ambition.
Following her Makalu-Kangchenjunga-Dhaulagiri triple this spring, she was headed for both Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat this summer, hoping to crown her list with
Annapurna in fall.
A climbing champion
Miss Go's success in Himalaya was neither luck nor an easy challenge. Yet as is the case with most Korean climbers, in spite of her stellar achievements Go made waves outside the established (western) climbing community.
“Dhaulagiri was Go‘s 10th 8000er and Kim‘s 11th”, Windhorse trekking‘s Ang Karma Sherpa told ExWeb from Nepal by the end of this spring season. It was also the Korean lady‘s toughest climb until then, she told Ang Karma in an SMS. “We climbed for 25 hours non-stop from camp III to summit and back due to the bad weather and ice showers constantly hitting our faces,” Mi-Sun reported back then.
Former Asian Women Sports Climbing, Asian Women Ice Climbing and Korean Women Mountaineering Ski champion - Go had doggedly entered the world top-league of Himalaya climbers, Ang Karma said.
It was a life-consuming quest. The youngest of 6 siblings, after completing elementary school and middle school at her hometown, Go moved to In-Cheon (enrolling in In-Sung Girls High School) which offered better opportunity to practice mountaineering, reported ExplorersWeb's correspondent in Korea, Kyu Dam Lee, in an email today.
No easy life
Korean climbers live under very different conditions than western mountaineers. South Korea faces constant threat from communist North Korea and most elders have fresh memories from the Korean War (1950-53) that killed 2.5 million people. It has provided Korea with mountaineers known for taking bigger risks but also achieving spectacular climbs such as Mr Park's recent new route on Mount Everest.
Miss Go was in it less for the race, but more as a means to become something bigger than her destiny. Her records set a number of milestones for the world mountaineering community, in the end underlining the seriousness of Himalayan 8000+ meter exposure.
Miss Go's life was a source of great pride and joy to her family. While her memory is bound to inspire in the future, at this time their loss is huge.
"Her father, 84, (currently staying with Miss Go‘s elder sister‘s house in Song-Pa, Seoul) only cries in silence, her mother is 71 years old," Kyu told ExplorersWeb.
The Korean embassy in Pakistan confirmed Go Mi-Sun's death today. Her body will be airlifted by helicopter tomorrow, and transported to Korea soon after her family has arrived in Islamabad. Go's aunt, sister in law‘ and sister Mi-Ran (48) are scheduled for Islamabad on Thursday together with members from supporting Kolon Sports.
Her uncle recalled Go's last words upon departing on the summit push as, "please pray for my successful summit of Nanga Parbat." "Her father loved her so much," the uncle added, "and always followed her."
"All the members of her family are in deep sadness," Kyu told ExplorersWeb.
http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=18501
Go Mi-Sun "Miss Go" (of Cheong-Ho Village, Ha-Seo city, Bu-An county in Jeon-La-Buk-Do/North Jeon-La Province) in Korea summited CH in 2006; EV, BP and SH in 2007; LH, K2 and MN in 2008 ; and MK, KG, DH and NP in 2009.
Joao Garcia's Nanga Parbat Debrief
02:20 pm CDT Jul 14, 2009
(K2Climb.net)
The International-Austrian team tried to play smart with everyone else right from the start. At first, they refused to cooperate on the rope-fixing, alleging their cargo (including the tents) was delayed – it was not true.
We fixed the route to C2. After that their porters carried up some 500 meters of line. I brought up and fixed 100 meters above C2, as I had already slept two nights there. I then asked the Austrians for more rope to fix. They gave me a 120 meter coil.
I placed it right above the one I had fixed before. This rope was later removed - from the very section where Miss Go fell!
A tense expeditions' meeting
If every climber had fixed 100 meters each; at the 50 of us, divided between 4 expeditions, the about 5000 meters that needed to be done should have been a fast and easy task.
But on an 18 member team the Austrians had only 6 HAP‘s: five of which were personal porters having to perform double duty and carrying rope when they could. By comparison, the Koreans fixed 2000 meters.
Five days into the expedition the Austrian team asked for a meeting; aggressively commanding the Iranians to fix more rope. I tried to explain that the Iranians were not actually climbing – only Pakistani Muhamed Ali was to attempt the summit on their behalf, and then there was Amin and I (sharing their permit).
I told them I had already fixed my 100 meters, plus the 120 meters they had given me. They still insisted, so I accepted to carry another 350 meters from BC to C3, for the Korean's Sherpas to fix where they deemed needed.
"I can´t understand how it could have been removed"
While we had accepted all the terms: the Austrian‘s contribution became to remove rope from sections they considered overly fixed, and bring it up with them.
One of the sections was where the Korean girl died. The line secured a rocky outcrop, and I can´t understand how it could have been removed; while a rope was left on a completely flat ridge before C3.
During this time, on our summit push, Amin, Ali and I labored to transport ropes from C2 to C3. We had to climb down to C2 for the night, in order to get some rest before climbing back up all the way to C4 on the following day, hoping to reach the summit a few hours later – we had no choice, as weather is same for everyone.
A sad end
The bottom line is that the Austrians fixed a total of 44 meters per person, while the three of us carried 140 meters each, as did the Koreans. It's shameful, it's unfair - and in my opinion the consequence of an outfitter selling a ―fully-supplied‖ Nanga Parbat expedition with an unacceptable HAP/clients ratio.
I believe that the Austrian team leader; the local agent Ali; and the manager of the local porters are all accomplices for financial reasons – while the clients are foolish to think that anyone could make an omelette without breaking eggs. It's impossible to offer a reliable service with a mere 6 porters on 18 clients.
The story ended sadly: a team member was lost while his mates had no clue about when, where and how it happened. An exhausted young Korean girl had her support withdrawn.
I am getting sick and tired of this 'high-altitude tourism' - I can‘t wait to get done with this 14x8000er project; and to begin different, less crowded expeditions.
(Ed note: ExlorersWeb has offered the Austrian-International expedition leader, currently in transit to K2, to comment Joao's report.)
Bagging his 13th 8000er (all without supplementary oxygen), Portuguese Joao Garcia summited Nanga Parbat on noon July 10. Annapurna is the last on his list - a climb he plans for spring, 2010.
Korean Mi Sun Go and Austrian Wolfgang Köblinger also topped out on July 10, but later in the day at 6:00 pm. Wolfgang fell to his death shortly after on descent. Another fall, on an unroped section between C3 and C2 took Miss Go‘s life the following day.
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18505
K2, PAK – Michel Fait – June 23, 2009
Michele Fait, 44, fell to his death while skiing on K2 Mountain in Pakistan.
Fait was skiing with his partner Fredrik Ericsson when he fell. The fall was witnessed from the K2 base camp. The fall took place on the Cesen route.
Ericsson climbed back up to where Fait had fallen. Ericson reached Fait, after about twenty minutes, accompanied by Fabrizio Zangrilli, who had come up from base camp. His skis had slipped and then he hit rock. He fell over a thousand meters; there was no chance of survival. Fait’s body was buried the following day.
Michele Fait had planned to climb K2 without oxygen and ski down from the summit via the Cesen route on the south-east face.
Hans Kammerlander had attempted to ski K2 previously, but aborted his run. Hans made it to the summit, together with Jean Christophe Lafaille, on July 22, 2001. Hans brought his skis to the summit to try to become the first person to make a complete ski descent of K2. The conditions were bad, and after 400 meters, he decided to stop. - "When I saw a Korean climber falling down the wall, passing just few meters away from me, I took my skis off". Hans believes a ski-descent is possible: - "The wall was a stiff 60 degrees, it would had been like skiing on a bell tower roof". -"Somebody will do it, but he'll need a lot of ability and a whole lot of luck."
Fait had performed over 50 extreme descents in the Alps, Andes and Himalayas.
JOM Visitor Map; June 26, 2009:
Denali, May 2009:
Classifieds
Yosemite Lodging
Stay at Han’s house in the heart of Yosemite National park; thirteen miles to El Capitan Meadow. Link: http://www.hansbasecamp.com/
Journal Information
Published by the “California Mountaineering Group”
Library of Congress: “Journal of Mountaineering”
ISSN: 1948-9110 (print), 1948-9129 (online)
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The material presented contains inaccuracies that can result in death if followed. The Journal disclaims any responsibility or liability and does not guarantee, warrant, lend credibility, or endorse any product, service, or information mentioned; reader beware.
Climber Protest Succeeds:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/northern_ireland/8116829.stm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irish_Traveller
Greenpeace
http://solveclimate.com/blog/20090712/greenpeace-takes-mount-rushmore-why-11-climbers-were-willing-risk-arrest
Physical Effects of Climbing:
Books:
Goldberg, Linn, and Diane Elliot. The Healing Power of Exercise. New York: John Wiley & Sons, 2000
Hoerst, Eric. Training for Climbing. Guilford: Globe Pequot Press, 2003
Electronic Sources:
Bollen, Steve. ―Upper limb injuries in elite rock climbers‖ PubMed Dec 1990. 16 Feb 2009. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/2079693?ordinalpos=16&itool= EntrezSystem2.PEntrez.Pubmed.Pubmed_ResultsPanel.Pubmed_DefaultReportPanel.Pubmed_RVDocSum
Landers, Daniel. ―The Influence of Exercise on Mental Health‖ Fitness. 16 Feb 2009. http://www.fitness.gov/mentalhealth.htm
Rooks. ―Rock climbing injuries‖ PubMed Apr 1997. 16 Feb 2009. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9160482
Snow Blindness:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snow_blindness
http://www.worldcongress2007.org.uk/images/WMS%20Aviemore%20Wilderness%20and%20Altitude%20Ophthalmology-%20Dan%20Morris.pdf
http://www.bozemandailychronicle.com/everest_blog/?p=65
Mountaineering Equipment:
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/3-97-61/index.html
http://www.usap.gov/travelAndDeployment/documents/FieldManual-Chapt11SnowShelters.pdf
OSHA Fall Arrest System Specification:
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/construction/falls/fallarrest.html
Michele Fait:
http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/2009/06/karakorum-2009-k2-claims-life-of.html
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=18454
http://www.rte.ie/sport/other/2009/0624/faitm.html
http://www.jerberyd.se/climbing/climbers/kammerlander/
John Bachar:
http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=896157&tn=80
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=48225
Lindsey White
http://www.heraldnet.com/article/20090707/NEWS01/707079924&news01ad=1
Go Mi-Sun
http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=18501