Speed climber Pemba Dorje Sherpa, who set the record for the fastest climb of the 8,848-meter peak on May 21, 2004 when he clocked 8 hours and 10 minutes, returned from Camp 2, located at 6,600 meters, on Monday owing to bad weather.

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Pemba, 31, was vying to stay atop the peak for a full day without supplementary oxygen. He was accompanied by his younger brothers Nima Gyalzen, 23, and Phurba Tenzing, 20, who were also trying to stay the same duration atop the peak, but with supplementary oxygen. All of them have returned to the Base Camp.

The record for most time atop the peak is currently held by Babu Chiri Sherpa, who spent 20 hours on top in 1999. Babu Chiri died in 2001 in a crevasse fall on Mt. Everest.

Everest – Walking Dead

On top of the world, just below the more than 29,000-foot high peak of Mount Everest, a team of four British medical researchers took their own blood samples. Their oxygen levels were the lowest ever recorded, well below levels that would normally prove lethal on the ground.

An average person at sea level has about 13-14 kilopascals (kPa) of oxygen in their bloodstream. When his intensive care patients drop to around 8 kPa he gets very worried, and a normal person with 6 kPa of oxygen faces almost certain death. On top of Mount Everest they measured their own blood oxygen level to be between 2.5 and 4 kPa, the lowest ever measured in live people.

The doctors, scaled Everest last spring, and have now published their record findings in the New England Journal of Medicine. All four reached the summit, but they couldn't take readings right at the top. "It's always reasonably unpleasant up there," the conditions were -25 degrees C with howling winds. So the scientists descended to a small shelter, where they could "strip off" and take their own blood samples. A Sherpa then carried them down to a makeshift lab about 21,000 feet above sea level. And as if the brutal cold and wind of the Himalayas weren't jarring enough, Martin soon saw his team's blood oxygen numbers. "These are staggeringly low," he says.

Martin's expedition achieved a new record, and it could spur some scientific and medicinal advances, too. If some climbers can keep climbing with lethal oxygen levels, then they must have some kind of ability to "almost hibernate," possibly conserving oxygen by temporarily suspending non-essential functions. "That may be working at the cellular level," he says. To test that idea, the doctors also took tiny biopsies of their own muscles when they were atop Everest and froze them in liquid nitrogen. Now scientists across Europe are looking at the samples, Martin says, primarily the mitochondria—the cellular powerhouses—to see whether cells sacrifice other tasks to keep producing energy when oxygen gets scarce.

Most intensive care patients have lower blood oxygen than healthy people, and though they need oxygen to survive, giving them large doses of it can be dangerous or damaging to the lungs. If doctors knew that a patient could survive with low oxygen, they might let that person's oxygen levels drift down a little more before they resort to risky treatments.

Himalayan Club – Leh Conference – August 28, 2009

The Himalayan Club with Rimo Expeditions has organised a three conference at Leh, Ladakh to spread awareness about the area. A training camp for 25 young Ladakhi youth and an environmental training for several trekking agents will be held. Many elders from different villages are being invited to be part of discussions, lectures and see films on their land.

Members of the Himalayan Club and their friends are invited to attend the conference. Kindly manage your travel and stay. For any help contact our Hon. Local Secretary at Leh Mr. Motup Chewang Goba. E mail : motuprimo@gmail.com

Day One: 28 th August 2009: Medical

Dr Tsering Norbu- a well known physician from Leh. He is an authority on medical issues in Ladakh.

He will speak about the new diseases cropping up in Ladakh, how to prevent them. He will narrate medical researches being carried out in Ladakh.

Dr Raghunath Godbole – A surgeon from Pune. Has special interest in High Altitude medicines and has trekked widely in different areas of the Himalaya. His talk will cover various issues related to acclimatisation, how to prevent High Altitude sickness. Steps for acclimatisation for tourists and guide line to travel and trekking agents to help their clients with these issues.

Dr. Thomas Hornbein- Medical doctor and well known climber. The “Hornbein Colouir” on Everest is named after him, through which he pioneered a route while climbing Everest with the American team. He will speak of medical problems at High Altitudes like on Everest, recent researches in the field. A special booklet published by the Himalayan Club will be released by Dr Hornbein. A special card giving instruction about acclimatization to all visitors will be released.

Day Two 29 th August 2009: Conservation and Environment

Kate Harris (Miss). Kate is a young scientist, explorer, and writer from Canada . She is currently a PhD student in the department of Earth, Atmospheric and Planetary sciences at MIT. A Rhodes Scholar, Kate wrote her master's dissertation at Oxford on the history of science, exploration, and geopolitics on the Siachen glacier, and she is passionate about the potential of science as a force for peace in the Greater Himalaya.

She will speak about her work and its relations to Ladakh.

Bernadette Mcdonald (Mrs.) – Author and climber from Canada . She was the Director of the Banff Centre for Mountain Culture for almost two decades. She has won many book awards for her publications and climbs regularly.

“Mountain Communities - Learning from Each Other”

With her special interest mountain culture and people, she will draw a comparison between mountain communities in the world and in Ladakh: similarities, problems and its solutions.

Major General (retd) Randhir Sinh has extensively served in the area and was the Brigade Commander in the Nubra valley. He will narrate the work by the army in Ladakh and Siachen, with special focus on army’s role in helping people in Ladakh, steps taken to protect the environment and role of army in protecting the borders of Ladakh.

An interactive discussion with panel on issues relating to Environment and Conservation. It will be moderated by Bernadette Macdonald.

Day Three : 30 th August 2009: Siachen and East Karakoram

Harish Kapadia is the Hon. Editor of the Himalayan Journal and well known explorer. He has trekked and climbed in Ladakh since 1980 and visited the Siachen Glacier couple of time. With help of pictures he will narrate the history of the Siachen glacier covering the famous explorers and start of the India- Pak conflict. He will talk of the proposal for the Siachen Peace Park .

John Porter is a leading climber from UK and has climbed Chong Kumdan peak in the East Karakoram . He made pioneering climbs on the South Buttress of Changabang alpine style, and several other challenging climbs. Currently he runs a Mountain Film Festivals company. An interactive discussion with panel about the Siachen Glacier, and the Siachen Peace Park.

Sydney, AUS – Climbing Nuisance – June 2, 2009

THE man known as "Spiderman" has pleaded guilty to illegally climbing a 41-storey building in Sydney's CBD.

Alain Robert caused a late morning disruption yesterday when he ascended the RBS Tower with up to 20 police present to protect onlookers and direct traffic.

Alain Robert, The Human Spider

A French skyscraper climber nicknamed "Spiderman" was arrested after scaling a 41-story building in central Sydney with his bare hands and bringing traffic to a standstill on the busy streets below.

A crowd of around 200 people who had gathered to watch cheered as Alain Robert, known for scaling some of the world's tallest and best-known buildings without ropes or other safety equipment, reached the top of the Royal Bank of Scotland tower.

Police cordoned off the surrounding area, causing gridlock, and arrested Robert when he climbed back down to street level.

The 46-year-old has climbed more than 70 skyscrapers around the world, including the Empire State Building, the Sears tower, Taipei 101 and the Petronas towers in Kuala Lumpur, according to his website

Today he pleaded guilty in Downing Centre Local Court to the charge of risking the safety of another by climbing a building or structure.

Chief Magistrate Graeme Henson lectured Robert before slapping him with a $750 fine.

"It's one thing to be proud of your achievements but it's another thing to be disrespectful of the laws as a guest in this country," Mr Henson said.

His lawyer John Gaitanis told the court Robert was a world renowned climber and had been involved in the sport since the age of 12. "He has indicated to me the climb he did yesterday was as simple as climbing a ladder or a staircase," Mr Gaitanis said.

Robert departs Australia on Sunday and has no plans to scale another Sydney building before then.

Articles

Task Force Spartan protects Wardak Province

Task Force Spartan Soldiers recently have taken a role in a new program designed to increase security, empower local residents and encourage them to play a larger role in protecting their villages and keeping insurgents out of Wardak Province, Afghanistan.

Soldiers with 2nd Battalion, 87th Infantry Regiment, Task Force Catamount, have launched a new program in the area known as the Afghan Public Protection Program, a move initiated and supported by elected local officials. The program is a collaborative effort between the Afghan government and International Security Assistance Forces to encourage responsible young men to assume a larger role in determining their future and securing a greater level of independence.

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“We support their effort and play an important developmental role,” said Capt. Marco Lyons, commander of Headquarters and Headquarters Company, 2-87 Infantry. “The Afghan Public Protection Program is an Afghan requested, initiated and developed program. It enables respected young men of local communities to become public protectors.”

Graduation events for Afghan Public Protection Force officers are occurring in several areas of Wardak, most recently in the Jalrez Valley. Some 100 graduates recently advanced from trainees to Afghan Public Protection Force officers. AP3 officers are instructed on several topics, including integrity, ethics, use of force, discipline, and the constitutional and police law of Afghanistan.

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Keeping insurgents out of Wardak is a goal of this pioneer program, and its most recent graduates are establishing greater independence in the areas where they are located.

“This program is about empowerment and improving security and governance in Wardak,” Lyons said. “Wardak was chosen in particular so that it can be assessed during our deployment and we can accomplish the initial wave of success. It is a program that has been petitioned by Shura members, local officials and political leaders across the country and therefore has a strong cultural and legal foundation.”

In addition to creating greater independence, AP3 establishes a stronger relationship between distant districts and the Afghan government. The program creates several benefits: improved security, enhanced local governance and greater central government influence.

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Recently, children in the Jalrez Valley reported the location of an improvised explosive device to Afghan Public Protection Force officers. ISAF was alerted and safely disposed of the device.

“Local residents are embracing the (Afghan Public Protection Program) and the concept of safeguarding their neighborhoods,” said Sgt. Maj. Patrick Corcoran, TF Catamount operations sergeant major. “Their cooperation shows a commitment to the coalition, their country and the Afghan government. It has had very positive effects throughout the region, especially in the Jalrez Valley. Local residents are very receptive, and the Afghan Public Protection Force is thought of as a beneficial program.”

In many areas, villagers have been coerced into providing insurgents refuge, supplies and subsistence because they lack the ability to defend themselves and often are beyond the reach of Afghan National Security Force assistance. The AP3 program helps to remedy this problem by allowing local authorities to deny insurgents safe haven in their villages and to impede insurgent activity in their areas.

“Afghan Public Protection Force presence decreases the probability that insurgents will intimidate local villagers,” said 1st Lt. Tyler Kurth, TF Catamount Afghan National Security Force coordination officer.

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“I’ve spoken to local residents in the Jalrez bazaar; they appreciate that local villagers patrol the area, and they believe the Afghan Public Protection Program will work,” Kurth said. “The local shop owners in Jalrez think it’s a great program, because it enables local residents to provide for their own security while simultaneously defending their communities and their country.”

Mountain Warfare – Pakistani Capability

Armies that train for mountain combat perform much better than those that do not.

The U.S. Army 10th Mountain Division, trained in the mountains of Colorado during World War II. The importance of preparing leaders and soldiers for high altitude combat cannot be overemphasized.

The Pakistan Army has been in Kashmir for more than 50 years and has a great deal of experience in fighting in mountainous, glaciated terrain. While the U.S. Army has quality training institutions for mountain warfare, it does not have many troops with extensive, current mountain-combat experience. A comparison of the training techniques of U.S. and Pakistan armies provides insight into preparing for mountain combat.

Physical fitness is the first prerequisite of mountain warfare training. The effects of cold weather and unforgiving terrain require a high level of physical fitness for long-distance climbing and walking, and the physical fitness required for mountainous terrain must be developed at high altitude. But being physically fit does not necessarily mean soldiers will be able to perform adequately at high elevations. U.S. soldiers selected to attend the mountain-warfare school in Kakul, Pakistan, required additional climbing time to attain the desired level of physical fitness. The body must adjust to the thin mountain air, and climbing muscles must be developed.

Mountainous terrain can be an ally or a dangerous adversary. In Kashmir each year, thousands of troops are introduced to the mountainous environment to help them understand and appreciate it. A marked difference exists in the performance of units that have conducted vigorous acclimatization training and those that have not. Weather and terrain related casualties are a big indicator. During initial training in Colorado during the early 1940s, the U.S. 10th Mountain Division suffered more casualties from weather-related injuries than from actual mountain combat in Italy.

Despite the fact the Pakistan Army has been fighting in Kashmir for a long time, operations at higher altitudes (18,000 to 22,000 feet) were not fully understood before the Siachen conflict between India and Pakistan in 1984. During the conflict, frostbite, sunburn, and other high-altitude sicknesses caused large numbers of casualties. Such incidences are now rare, however, because troops and commanders are trained to take precautionary measures.

In Kashmir, stone or wooden bunkers, which double as living accommodations and fighting bunkers, are found at posts below 13,000 feet, but at high altitudes, stone structures are not practical; cement will not bind, and the underlying glacier is always moving. Instead, prefabricated, synthetic domes (igloos) are used. The domes are easy to carry and assemble even at 18,000 feet and above. They can be retrieved from even large amounts of snow and set up again quickly.

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Soldiers must also be trained to wear proper clothing. Loose-fitting layers and insulated and polypropylene clothing, that does not allow perspiration to accumulate close to the body, are best. Developing frostbite, from touching metal equipment with one’s bare hands, is possible when temperatures drop to minus 22 degrees Fahrenheit. Pressurized sleeping bags help stabilize soldiers suffering from altitude related sicknesses.

Basic mountaineering and high-altitude skills are vital for soldiers to develop confidence and survive in mountainous environments and essential in combat. As mountain height increases, so does the required skill level. At altitudes below 13,000 feet, it might be enough for soldiers to understand climbing techniques, navigation, route selection, the use of ropes, and procedures to avoid landslides and snow avalanches, but at high altitudes, soldiers must learn more complex techniques, such as those required for mountain expeditions.

Because it is not always possible to transport material by helicopter, troops are often required to carry awkward loads, including kerosene oilcans, rations, and building materials for bunkers.

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At high altitudes, where it is difficult to keep weapons functioning, covering and protecting weapons and equipment against snow and ice is a necessity. Batteries often will not perform optimally in the cold, and complicated mechanisms.

Surviving and operating in mountainous terrain requires more energy than usual. A soldier who needs 3,000 to 4,000 calories under normal circumstances will require 6,000 or more calories in the mountains. To complicate the situation, high altitude adversely affects a person’s appetite. Soldiers tend to eat and drink less in high altitudes, which reduces morale and fighting capabilities, and makes them more susceptible to mountain related illnesses.

U.S. soldiers conducting mountain warfare training at Abbotabad, Pakistan, which is at 4,000 feet, lost approximately 25 pounds during a 3-week training period. Commanders must ensure soldiers consume proper diets and are well-hydrated. Physiological and psychological effects become more pronounced at altitudes above 8,000 feet. Soldiers must take preventive measures and be trained to detect signs of illness in colleagues. Common symptoms include severe, persistent headaches; coughing; difficulty in breathing; and aloofness. Other symptoms might include swelling around the eyelids, incoherent speech, intolerance, and even outright aggressiveness.

Many problems, including altitude sickness, can occur during the initial stages of a soldier’s arrival at high altitude. The biggest killer, cerebral or pulmonary edema, is difficult to detect, but often develops if soldiers stay too long at high altitude.

The normal practice in glaciated areas is to not keep soldiers above 19,000 feet for more than 3 to 4 weeks before returning them to lower elevations. If soldiers experience any signs of altitude illnesses, commanders must evacuate them promptly. For most mountain illnesses, evacuation to below at least 3,000 feet is the first requirement for saving a person’s life. Delaying evacuation might not only cost the soldier’s life, but imperil the lives of the soldiers who might have to conduct evacuation procedures during bad weather.

Replacements being sent to high-altitude environments must have operated at heights similar to those to which they are being sent for at least 10 to 15 days. If not, they could quickly become casualties themselves. Well-trained, acclimatized troops must be available to replace those at higher altitudes. High-altitude environments can take heavy physical and mental tolls on soldiers. Operations in such environments involve extreme physical exertion.

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Living conditions in mountainous terrain can be difficult. At times all movement is stopped, soldiers do not receive mail, and replacements might not arrive on time. These factors can lead to depression and boredom and a sharp decrease in fighting spirit. Simple tasks such as manning weapons, sentry duty, and patrolling require determination. Offensive actions in mountainous terrain are difficult and costly. Not only must soldiers fight the enemy, they must also brave the elements of harsh terrain, which are equally formidable. These conditions call for strong leadership by junior leaders, who must physically lead and be mentally tough.

Mountainous and high-altitude environments are extremely demanding and require a high level of leadership at the small-unit level as well as at higher levels. Leaders must understand the constraints placed on their soldiers’ performances and should include terrain and weather in planning and executing actions to avoid miscalculating the timeframe, logistic requirements, and force capability. Mountain combat is decentralized and often takes place at the platoon or squad level. The quality of junior leadership is decisive. The Russians observed in Afghanistan that even a small unit, maneuvering boldly, could decide the outcome of a battle.

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Mountainous environments demand that junior leaders set the example of physical fitness and endurance. During the Pakistan-India conflict at Kargill in northern Kashmir in 1998, Captain Sher Khan was posthumously awarded the “Nishan-E-Haider,” Pakistan’s highest military award, for conducting daring raids with a handful of men against enemy patrols and convoys. His last action included a successful counterattack to recapture a post against overwhelming odds. Such leadership inspires subordinates and raises the morale of the entire unit. At high altitudes, small-unit leaders must be trained to recognize and address physical and psychological fatigue in their soldiers, including loneliness, depression, and violent mood swings. The relationship between officers and troops is more intimate than under normal circumstances, so leaders should be able to identify signs of deterioration in soldiers before they become pronounced. Decisions at higher levels influence the conduct of tactical actions.

Planners must understand that mountainous terrain adversely affects time and space calculations. Cost-effective mountain combat requires skilled and well-trained troops. Soldiers cannot be sent into a fight at high altitude at the last moment. Doing so could invite disaster. One example of such an action is the employment of the 7th Indian Brigade against the Chinese in the 1962 Himalayan con- Soldiers from the 101st Airborne Division conducting a sensitive site exploitation mission near the Pakistan border in Afghanistan.

The brigade had not been stationed in the mountains previously, and when things began going badly, the brigade was moved from the plains straight into mountain combat. The soldiers, who had not been acclimatized or equipped to fight in the mountains, suffered heavy casualties because of frostbite, edema, and other high-altitude-induced illnesses.

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Terrain and unpredictable weather conditions affect communications at high altitudes. Satellite communications and the use of command and control (C2) aircraft can offset some terrain limitations and reduce reliance on bulky radio equipment. Crews responsible for installing and maintaining retransmission stations—often situated on the highest peaks to provide adequate range and coverage—must be well trained in mountain-survival techniques. Also, these isolated stations are targets for guerrilla bands, as the Soviets discovered when they tried to protect similar sites in Afghanistan.

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Mountainous terrain is ideally suited for the defense. In Afghanistan, the Russians attacked the strategic Panjshir Valley repeatedly but were unable to clear it despite their advantage in firepower and mobility.

The line of control in Kashmir in 2003 was not much different from the cease-fire line of the India-Pakistan war in 1949. Both Indian and Pakistan forces found that an assault on well defended positions was extremely costly. Defense requires the control of dominating heights, passes, and lines of communication by strong points. An integrated defense is not possible in cut up, mountainous terrain. During training, commanders need to understand the techniques of defense with all-around protection and emplacement of direct fighting weapons. Reserves must be closer to important defense locations because reaction times in mountainous terrains are longer than usual, which could require several small rather than one large centralized reserve.

Aggressive patrolling enhances security and keeps soldiers active and sharp. In Kashmir this helped prevent a bunker mentality. Although sensors provide some protection, mountainous terrain is too compartmentalized for complete electronic surveillance. Offensive operations require meticulous planning and preparation because of the inherent strength mountainous terrain provides to the defender. Training plays a vital role in ensuring an edge for the attackers. Since the defender has an advantage, successful attacks should isolate the defender and keep him under constant pressure.

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The Soviets laid great emphasis on junior leaders and company-level mountain operations, advocating envelopment by smaller, autonomous groups. During Operation Anaconda in Afghanistan, U.S. forces used more decentralized combat than on normal terrain. Junior leaders’ initiative and skill is vital to the mission’s success, especially in security and reconnaissance missions. Mountainous terrain and bad weather provide opportunities for small forces to concentrate and achieve surprise. Russian and Afghan government forces suffered heavily when they neglected this aspect of the battlefield environment.

The Soviets used helicopters in Afghanistan to airlift troops and supplies into battle. Helicopter gunships effectively supported ground operations until the Mujahideen obtained Stinger missiles, which tilted the situation in their favor. U.S. forces also rely on helicopters for transportation and movement in the mountains, requiring aviation planners to be involved in the planning process early. With beyond-line-of-sight and precision guided munitions, aviation and air assets have neutralized many inherent problems in mountain warfare, but they have not eliminated the need for specialized training. Because mountain combat tends to be decentralized, control of supporting fire is more difficult. Tight control of jet aircraft and helicopter gunships is necessary to avoid fratricide.

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Logistics support in the mountains is difficult and time-consuming. In Kashmir, a variety of transport is used for logistical support, road transport being the most reliable and cost-effective. At higher altitudes where tracks cannot be maintained because of snow and difficult terrain, mules are a preferred means of transport.

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At altitudes where even mules cannot go, porters can. Porters are local people capable of carrying heavy loads across difficult terrain. Recently, despite technological advances, the U.S. Army had to use horses and mules in Afghanistan. Helicopters are a quick, versatile means of transportation, but at higher altitudes their lift capability is severely limited. The French Alouette helicopter can fly higher than U.S helicopters can, but even it can deliver only about 180 pounds above 20,000 feet. Because helicopters cannot be used in adverse weather, a mixture of resources is necessary to ensure reliability and flexibility.

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The road network in the mountains is generally a logistician’s nightmare. Main supply routes are limited and often do not support vehicles that require large turning radii. Many roads do not permit two way traffic. While tactical plans take into account main roads, tactical engagements do not usually occur close to road heads. At Siachen, the Pakistan Army built roads near forward defenses, but the real challenge was in transporting supplies across the last few miles from road heads to forward posts. The Center for Army Lessons Learned analysis of the operation in Afghanistan recognized the need to have logistics as far forward as possible: “It might require additional staff work from the logisticians to deploy the logistics to the work area (like rations to the platoons), but the advantage is reduced expenditure of energy for those on the ground.”

Logistics estimates and loads must be customized for the mountainous environment. For example, using mules requires loads be broken up according to their carrying capacity. Also, overages must be built into supply estimates because there is always a need for a large reserve of items that wear out quickly, such as boots, jackets, and gloves. If soldiers use improper or worn clothing for even a short time, the chance of developing altitude and cold-related sicknesses increases significantly. In addition, combat casualty evacuation involves many challenges. Evacuation remains the preferred method, but because of the dispersed nature of troops, expert medical help might not be available quickly. Therefore, self-aid, buddy help, and the availability of more combat life savers in the unit is important.

Canadian small-unit support vehicles, specially designed for restrictive terrain, were particularly useful for logistics support at high altitude in Afghanistan, whereas the bulky ground-held laser designating system was not. Soldiers’ personal loads of more than 50 pounds were too heavy at high altitudes. Equipment must be upgraded for future mountain warfare.

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Training for Mountain Warfare Recent operations by U.S. and other Allied forces confirm the need for specialized mountain-warfare training. Analysis recognizes that soldiers with mountain experience exhibit exceptional morale, physical stamina, and technical competence in decisive combat operations. The analysis also recognizes that coalition forces specially trained in mountainous environments are better trained overall.

Mountain troops should be stationed at high altitudes to maintain a high standard of physical fitness and acclimatization. Pakistan and India maintain a large number of troops on the line of control in Kashmir. This automatically provides ample opportunities for acclimatization. The U.S. 10th Mountain Division, however, is stationed at Fort Drum, New York, which is not in high mountains. Although troops need to be acclimatized for any kind of mountainous terrain, the duration depends on the altitude at which the unit must operate.

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Acclimatization for mountains below 13,000 feet takes 3 to 4 weeks. Pakistan troops train by bivouacking at high altitudes and conducting routine administrative activities and route marches. Each week they conduct hill climbing at increasingly higher altitudes to increase their ability to function. The rigorous training also helps identify soldiers who have medical problems. Acclimatization for higher altitudes is rigid, and the length of training cannot be shortened without serious consequences. Although the pattern of training remains the same, troops are trained at an altitude of between 8,000 and 10,000 feet for 2 weeks, followed by 1 month’s training at 11,000 feet. The troops conduct route marches, fire weapons, climb rocks, and cross crevasses.

They then move in stages from 13,000 feet to forward posts at heights up to 21,000 feet. The basic principle is to bivouac one night for about every 3,000-foot increase in altitude. Troops returning from leave must repeat the process. Because the U.S. Army 10th Mountain Division is not stationed in a high-altitude environment and its soldiers are not acclimatized, deployment to high mountains would require an additional 2 to 3 weeks of acclimatization. This also applies to units that have conducted mountain-warfare training but are not currently stationed at high altitudes. Physical conditioning is essential to mountain combat in Afghanistan.

Leadership training is extremely important for mountain warfare. The U.S. Army focuses on leadership, but it does not have a package designed specifically for training at different levels of leadership in mountainous environments. Mountain leadership training should be based on the unique characteristics and demands placed on leaders. Junior leader training requires initiative, personnel management, and mental toughness. In the Pakistan Army, most of these skills are learned through experience and exposure to tough environments. During mountain-combat deployment, junior-leaders often conduct patrols, lead expeditions, and direct command posts, despite sometimes having to endure adverse living and weather conditions. The U.S. Army Mountain Warfare School emphasizes gaining mountaineering skills rather than training combat leaders. The U.S. Marine Corps Mountain Warfare Center has a mountain leader course designed for junior leaders, but it is heavily skills-oriented.

Mountain leader training should begin with an introduction to issues and problems unique to mountainous terrain. Practical exercises and historical case studies increase leader awareness. Training outdoors in command positions with specific tasks, such as navigation, patrolling, raids, and ambushes, should be conducted at altitudes above 8,000 feet. Simulations that force junior leaders to make tough choices between their soldiers’ physical capabilities and mission accomplishment are essential to mountain leader training. Many senior leaders consider themselves well equipped to plan and conduct operations in any environment, but commanders who have served in the mountains as young leaders are far better at understanding and planning for such environments.

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Most armies from countries with mountainous terrain have well-established training institutions. Location of training institutions is an important consideration for mountain training. The Pakistan Army’s High-Altitude School, at Rattu in Northern Kashmir, is an ideal location on the confluence of the Hindu Kush, Himalayas, and Karakorum ranges. The school conducts training throughout the year and includes mountain climbing on peaks ranging from 15,000 to 20,000 feet and survival on glaciated terrain and in snowy and icy conditions.

The Indian Army’s high-altitude warfare school is at Gulmarg, which is at 8,000 feet. The U.S. Army Mountain Warfare School is located in Vermont, while the USMC Mountain Warfare School is located in Bridgeport, California, which is at 9,000 feet. The purpose of these training institutions is to train individuals to survive and take advantage of the extreme terrain and weather conditions in the mountains. Physical conditioning is the first prerequisite of mountain warfare. Training should be progressive, starting with light physical exertion followed by route marches and mountain climbing, culminating in test exercises in difficult terrain. Most schools have similar programs for this purpose. Although training individuals at heights up to 10,000 feet can achieve a great deal, to develop high-altitude skills, some training should occur above 13,000 feet. The ability to navigate and move across difficult terrain builds confidence and enables soldiers to plan and execute maneuvers across seemingly impenetrable and inhospitable terrain. The small-unit mountain operation exercise the U.S. Army Mountain Warfare School conducts is a good example.

Participants must navigate to six different sites within a set time. The exercise incorporates various skills soldiers need to complete actions successfully in a time compressed, competitive environment. Some skills frequently required during mountain warfare include using rope bridges and vertical haul lines and medical evacuation. Mobility in winter has several prerequisites, including using snowshoes, skiing, climbing ice, crossing crevasses, and detecting avalanche hazards. A key training objective in mountain training is properly using winter clothing.

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Recognizing and preventing cold-weather injuries; such skills are especially important for officers and noncommissioned officers who must enforce these practices. Lectures, demonstrations, and practical experience can help address these problems. The Pakistan Army’s standard training procedures cover most safety issues, such as frostbite prevention, high-altitude sickness, and pulmonary and cerebral edema. The U.S. Army Mountain Warfare School teaches winter sustainment using a 10-man arctic tent, a diesel-fired stove, fuel, and other basic supplies. Kashmir tents have a short lifespan because of the wear and tear from blizzards and heavy snowfall. Stone structures and synthetic igloos are the preferred structures.

Considering the unique requirements of mountainous and high-altitude environments, these can be serious limiting factors for coordinating and synchronizing the combined arms fight and can easily lead to faulty planning and wrong assumptions about each other’s capabilities and limitations.

Mountain warfare involves logistics, aviation, artillery, communications, and air assets. With the level of sophistication in these branches and services, there is an even greater need for collective training in order to use their unique characteristics fully.

All branches and services need to train for mountain combat to understand the capabilities and limitations of their equipment. Aviation is critical to mobility, timely logistics, and precision firepower. Pilots should be well trained in mountain flying and in understanding an infantryman’s problems in mountainous terrain. The Pakistan Army’s 8th Aviation Squadron supports operations in Kashmir. Pilots have hundreds of hours of combat flying experience and understand the mountainous environment.

Pilots for cargo and troop carrying helicopters also need to train in mountains in various weather conditions. High-altitude training combining attack and cargo helicopters is essential for high-altitude combat

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The U.S. Army has a variety of sophisticated communication equipment. Although some equipment works well in the mountains, some requires improvisation and alternatives because FM communications are often ineffective at high altitudes distances impeded by mountainous terrain.

Shifting retransmission stations and using equipment in various weather conditions is essential to providing a variety of options to communication providers and users. Engineers, who are key to mobility, counter mobility, and survivability, must also train and work in high-altitude conditions. Constructing shelters, laying minefields, providing clean water supplies, and constructing bridges and roads require different considerations in the mountains. Training in a mountainous environment is the only way to ascertain the type and quantity of materials and equipment needed. In mountainous environments, CSS elements also need to learn how best to use trucks, aircraft, porters, and mules. Training under real mountain conditions helps them identify the differences in logistical calculations for mountainous environments.

Doctors and medical staff also need special training in recognizing and treating high-altitude-related injuries and illnesses. In Kashmir, doctors are fairly confident in dealing with them. The Soviet Army instituted more than 100 hours of training through a special course for doctors and their staffs.

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The U.S. Army had a distinguished history of mountain operations during World War II. The 10th Mountain Division proved its utility as an elite mountain- trained force during the Italian Campaign. More than 50 years later, Operation Anaconda in Afghanistan highlighted the continued need for specialized training in mountain warfare. The Army has embarked on an impressive transformation intended to meet the challenges of the 21st century; expert mountain troops available for deployment on a short notice should be a part of this transformation. [excerpted from Military Review]

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Mountaineering – How to Get Started

Harrison

There is lots of ways to learn mountaineering. You can go in a meat locker and set up your tent and go to sleep and see how you and your equipment function or you can do Avalanche Gulch in a whiteout and find an epic adventure gaining a new understanding of the term experience. The CMG offers great opportunities for folks to get out there. One on one or small group classes are a great way to learn too.

Mountaineering experiences usually falls into two groups; safe and unsafe. Common sense, experience, and instinct is probably your best tools. Its how you use them that makes the difference. Just because its unsafe does not mean its lethal and in mountaineering just because its safe does not mean its without some risk. Weather and external condition are unpredictable. I have walked away from climbs that in retrospect I could have summited. And I have summited peaks I probably should have turned around from or never started. In the mountains "things" can go to Hell in a hand basket real quick. This may seem stupid but if you climb just to get to the top; don't climb. Measure your success rate with YOUR past experiences and current conditions not desire and balls. However, sometimes it take just that.

Remember the goal is to make it home, with you and your partners in one piece and still friends. Usually, but not always the most dangerous part of any climbing trip is the drive. Taking advice from a 5.13 climber or a seasoned hard man mountaineer is not always wise unless you are one. Yeah MAYBE some climbs are worth loosing a fingertip or getting a broken bone. If it was not risky we would not do it. Its hard to say what is enough. Its individual. Find a climbing partner that has the same value for their life, finger tip or scar tissue and the definition of epic that you do. And you wont go wrong. What ever you do out there, have a lot of fun and suffer a little. It should not be the other way around!

Arvind

"I am have always checked with the trip organizer in this forum before joining the trip.

Sometimes, you will be required to get some guided instructions before the trip and this really helps

a lot (both safety and personal confidence). And sometimes ... well... the trip may not be appropriate

for beginners. Check the calendar for trips that might interest you."

Bill

While it's obviously no substitute for time in the mountains, "Alpine Climbing" Techniques to Take You Higher" by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley, a book in the Mountaineers Books outdoor expert series, is a great resource.. Houston and Cosley, based in France and Bishop, are very experienced guides and the book is well written.. with sections on decision making and risk management, hazards of alpine climbing, mental and physical training, equipment, navigation, alpine rock, snow and ice and glaciers.. a very complete and readable text.

Chris

A big part of "learning mountaineering" is learning how your body and gear behave at altitude and in the cold. Classes won't teach you much about that - getting out and up will. Can you go from sea level to 8K (Tuolomne) in a day? What's that like? Have you slept at 10K (above Lone Pine)? 12K? Higher? How long does it take you to get your pulse rate back to something like normal when you make that big a change in elevation? Do you sleep cold or warm? Just how much of a pain is your stove at 10K? "Freedom of the Hills" will guide you through basic techniques that you can practice on your own.

Marek

The way I've learned mountaineering (and believe many others as well) was by just going to the mountains and doing it. I've met in the mountains other mountaineers who were showing me techniques or sharing tips. But most skills and experiences I've gained by pursuing adventurous trips. There is no good or bad approach to mountaineering as long as you stay intact. Mountaineering is a dangerous activity and even the best climbers become victims of accidents. Usually people who become mountaineers don't try it to see if this activity is for them. They are curious and pursue they curiosity by taking on new challenges. The mountains call you and there is not much you can do to resist that call. As a conclusion, go to Shasta, (Avalanche Gulch) perhaps Adams (South Spur), you will meet there many people. In popular climbing season, if the weather is sunny and windless, there may be hundreds of people. For most of them it is just one time adventure, but there are always some skilled and experienced climbers (even on routes like these). Check some message boards, also Criagslist, for "safe routes" trips. I myself take beginners to Shasta and show them basics for free every year. As long as you have the right drive and proper equipment you will become a mountaineer.

Medical Treatment

Immersion Foot

Trench foot, also known as immersion foot, occurs when the feet are wet for long periods of time. It can be quite painful, but it can be prevented and treated.

Symptoms of trench foot include a tingling and/or itching sensation, pain, swelling, cold and blotchy skin, numbness, and a prickly or heavy feeling in the foot. The foot may be red, dry, and painful after it becomes warm. Blisters may form, followed by skin and tissue dying and falling off. In severe cases, untreated trench foot can involve the toes, heel, or entire foot.

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When possible, air-dry and elevate your feet, and exchange wet shoes and socks for dry ones to help prevent the development of trench foot.

Immersion foot is a condition in which the sweat glands of the bottom of the foot are over productive resulting in excessive perspiration. Perspiration in immersion foot is so excessive that the skin of the bottom of the foot becomes thickened, macerated and painful. This condition is most common in adolescents and young adults.

Each of us has a set point for our metabolism somewhat like the thermostat in our homes. Some folks have a higher set point than others. For some, a high set point may be due to anxiety, stress, hyperthyroidism, hypoadrenalism or excessive fluid intake. For others, it's just their natural metabolic set point that results in excessive perspiration.

immersion_foot

Quite often we'll see that a person's occupation contributes to immersion foot. Workers who wear boots, particularly rubber boots, are most susceptible to immersion foot. The jungles of Vietnam and combat boots were a 'shoe in' for immersion foot.

Immersion foot, also called hyperhydrosis or trench foot, often results in an embarrassing odor called bromhydrosis. The distinctive odor of smelly tennis shoes is actually caused by bacteria helping to decompose the perspiration and dead skin cells on the foot and those that are left in the shoe. How many pairs of tennis shoes do you have in the garage or on the back porch due to bromhydrosis?

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Those from the alternative side of the healthcare fence will be reluctant to inhibit perspiration as a method of treating immersion foot. Their philosophy is that perspiration is a natural way that the body is ridding itself of toxic material. Inhibiting perspiration by any means will result in the accumulation of free radicals and other metabolic waste. For most folks who suffer from immersion foot, decreasing perspiration would be considered blessed relief from the pain, perspiration and embarrassment of hyperhydrosis.

Remember, when treating hyperhydrosis, immersion foot and fungal conditions of the foot, these conditions will not be cured, but rather need to be managed over a patient's life. Some of the methods used to treat hyperhydrosis are really quite simple. Create and environment in the shoe that is cool, dry and accessible to UV light. Try these four simple tricks;

Rotate your shoes every other day to allow them to dry thoroughly.
Avoid synthetic materials like rubber or vinyl, wear leather or cloth that can absorb moisture.
Frequent changes of socks to wick away moisture.
Use talc or baby powder daily to wick away moisture.

Thoroughly clean and dry your feet.
Treat the affected part by applying warm packs or soaking in warm water (102° to 110° F) for approximately 5 minutes.
When sleeping or resting, do not wear socks.
Obtain medical assistance as soon as possible.
If you have a foot wound, your foot may be more prone to infection. Check your feet at least once a day for infections or worsening of symptoms.

Equipment

Toolboxes

An inexpensive plastic tool box can be used for storing and organizing your climbing rack. When you pack your car, grab the tool box; at the trail head, fine tune what you will carry.

Top shelf can be used for smaller items:

Remainder of the rack fits in the main compartment. You still need to carry shoes, helmet, and harness separately.

Tom Cronin

Batteries

Most small devices these days call for AA or AAA batteries. The AA’S are bigger than the AAA. Both should hold a voltage around 1.54v when new. I generally replace frequently when voltage falls below 1.45v. Here is a volt meter readily available at any hardware store.

The square nine volt batteries are seldom used in field devices. This one is a goner:

Batteries deteriorate rapidly. Change frequently as corrosion can destroy your device.

Try to stick to one type of battery such as AA. These two headlamps use different batteries which is not a good thing. I have standardized on AA batteries for my camera, GPS, headlamp, and radios. Each device provides spare for the others; provided you don’t need your camera and GPS at the same time.

This GPS also uses AA:

Emergency Bag

Example partial kit is shown below. Need to add among, other things, an insulated jacket, water bottle (straw), warm hat or balaclava, layers, gloves, GPS, map, small tarp for two, food, sunglasses, etc.

Sunscreen – Unless you like 3^rd degree burns

Headlamp – Beats blindness

Matches, starter tabs, lighter – Fire good

Dressings – boo boos

Knife – Keep your partner at bay (make shavings, cut rope)

Knives

Fixed Blade Knives

Hunters, hikers, and outdoor sport enthusiasts use survival knives. Some survival knives are heavy-bladed and thick; others are lightweight or fold in order to save weight and bulk as part of a larger survival kit.

During WWII, survival knives were issued to aircraft crew, as it was a real possibility that these personnel might be shot down over wilderness or behind enemy lines. Lifeboats aboard naval vessels also frequently contained survival kits including knives. These knives varied in design from one branch of the service to another and from one nation to another. The majority of them were simply commercial knives purchased in bulk by the military. From the Vietnam-era and to present, purpose-built survival knives evolved.

The serrations often seen on more recent survival knives are intended to allow aircrew men to cut their way free through the relatively thin metal skin of a crashed helicopter or airplane. They do not function well as wood saws nor are they intended as such. Those knives that do include functional saw-teeth still suffer from lack of blade length limiting the thickness of what can be cut when used as a saw.

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Folding Blade Knives

Some may consider a folding blade not durable enough; however, it is more compact and easily carried. It is vitally important that the blade lock securely (to prevent injury) and be easily opened with one hand.

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Climbing Knifes

Some folding knifes have a hole big enough for a carabineer, and are light weight suitable for when you are touching the void.

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Multi-tools and Pocket Survival Tools (PST)

These are knives that have many tools that may be useful in survival situations, however the blades are usually small and these tools should be accompanied by a larger knife. Sometimes, the blades are bigger; making them more usable as a primary knife, then extra functions is kept to a bare minimum. However, pocket knives almost never feature a good blade lock, limiting their usefulness as a primary blade.

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Machete

A skilled survivalist can quickly construct a temporary shelter with a machete, given appropriate materials.

Technique

The technique section will build from fundamentals. What follows are some selected basic techniques.

Climbing as a Party of Three

The following method tie in can be used while simultaneously climbing as a party of three or more on non technical terrain. If you tie in directly to the rope intermediate climbers will get pulled from either direction as the leader advances or as the person behind stops.

To tie in tie a long figure eight on a bight. Then girth hitch the rope to your belay loop by stepping over it:

The tail created by the figure eight bight minimizes the middle climber from being pulled forward or backwards:

Rapelling a Weighted Line

So say you have to bail on an alpine climb. you build your anchor and your buddy raps down first. While on rappel, he gets struck by lightning, or KO'd by rockfall, but either his rap backup stops him or he hits the knots at the end of the rope. what the heck are you supposed to do? The rope is fully weighted so you can’t just rap down after him The only thing I can come up with is kind of down-prussicing, any better solutions?

I recall this subject discussed in depth a year or so ago. Down prussic is indeed a great option. Various other rap options were discussed and I even built a carabineer brake under load. Do Not Do This. Besides being harder than getting money and approval for new gear from the wife, it prove to be totally uncontrollable under a real life load.

Short answer is prussic. Longer answer is you've got to get your victim off the line anyhow so you guys can self rescue to somewhere better. See riding the pig for a great intro into rapping with large load.

"Extended French prussic" - Google it. It allows you to descend a loaded rope so you can get to your fallen buddy and either tend to him or cut his body free

You could attach your Cinch, and then rap one of the ropes. The Cinch is one of the only devices I know of that can be loaded on a weighted rope. Although this requires your buddy not coming off the ropes until you reach him, because you are only weighting one of the ropes. You need his "dead weight" so to say.

I've actually had to do this once to rescue a partner who had somehow gotten the rappel rope jammed in their ATC. They were fully conscious but dangling in space and didn't know how to set up any kind of friction knot. (Serves me right for assuming that someone who can climb circles around me in the gym is minimally competent outdoors.)

I don't think there are any really good options. I suspect that most of the rappelling options simply won't work in many situations and may be dangerous in others. In my opinion, down prussiking is really the only option and that's what I did. There can be problems with this, and I can envision circumstances when it wouldn't be possible.

The main difficulty arises when the weighted rope is held against a protuberance of the cliff, a situation that is quite likely. It may be extremely hard to get the rope away from the cliff so that knots can be slid down (a rappel device would be more problematic). If the obstruction is short, knots can be removed and reinstalled below the blocked point. If the rope is held against a slab (think of a slab above an overhang), it might prove impossible or at least extremely difficult to prussic or rappel down.

Sling Angle

When top roping, or placing protection, you want the rope/sling angle to the carabineer to be as small as possible. In all three cases below a 1000 kg weight is used. In the first example, the sling is set at 60 degrees and the combined forces are each less than 1000 kg. The second example is similar but for 90 degrees:

In the third example the angle is such that the sling actually is subjected to more force than the carabineer at 1200 kg. Keep the angle low. Consider carrying several double length slings to handle these situations.

Same principle as above:

Rappelling

Here is a method for using a sling while rappelling. The sling moves the rappel device higher up away from your belay loop allowing for a backup knot such as a prussic or mechanical device. A personal anchor system could be substituted for a sling; the point is to stay tied into an anchor until you have complete faith in your rappel system and can commit to it.

A sling is shown for demonstration:

The backup knot (or shunt) allows stopping mid rappel to use both your hands to clear snagged ropes, for example. Without a backup, you are not protected against a catastrophic fall. Note the top of the sling remains secured to the anchor. The sling is tied mid-point with an overhand knot.

After the setup is fully checked, the climber finally unclips the sling (or other extension) from the anchor and is now belayed by the rappel device and backup. The climber slides the backup upwards to descend.

Tying in Short

It is sometimes necessary to shorten the climbing rope. Here is a method for doing so. One end is still tied to your harness and the other to your partner; do not untie. Coil the extra rope around your shoulder until the desired length is reached. Take a bight of the rope leading to your partner and pass the bight through your belay loop and also the coil of rope to keep it secure.

Next a fisherman’s know is tied around the rope leading to your partner:

A carabineer can be clipped through the resulting bight:

In this arrangement, when your partner pulls the force is transferred to your harness and not the loop of coils.

Rope Drag

Rope drag is caused by friction on quick draws and the rock and can therefore be reduced by using longer quick draws. However, the performance climber should know that the rope itself has qualities that will affect. Hence, choosing the right rope for a hard press on a route with much rope-drag could mean the difference between success and failure when clipping the last bolt at 30 meters height;

The surface of the rope; how well it slides across surfaces due to rope surface treatment and wear (i.e. rugged surface)

The thickness of the rope; a thinner rope means less friction

The weight of the rope

Over the years the ropes have become thinner, lighter and often water protected (which actually makes them more slippery). The weight difference (15 grams per meter) is less important for the drag but it is clearly that an 8.9 surface treated rope will cause less friction than an ordinary 10.5 mm. Friction is, however, mostly affected by the state of the rope, that is if the rope is old, worn and/or rugged or if it's brand new. Below we show an example on how the three factors mentioned above could affect the 'rope drag load' (i.e. how heavy it is to pull the rope) while pulling the rope at 30 meters.

Rope drag factors	New & treated 8.9 mm	Used & rugged 10.5 mm
Surface texture	1 kg	3 kg
Thickness	0.5 kg	1 kg
Weight	1.5 kg	2 kg
Load to pull rope	3 kg	6 kg

Rope manufactures often warn that a new, thin and treated rope could cause such a low friction that the braking effect of the belaying device is dangerously reduced. For example, everyone knows that it is very dangerous to use a new and thin rope in a GriGri but that regular usage with other devices will increase its friction and enable GriGri use. However, the trade-off is that at the same time the rope will become harder to pull through the quickdraws.

Some additional pointers

Dynos in a steep overhangs will create a swing that is easier to control for the belayer with a high friction rope.

Single ropes are certified based on 80 kg tests. Half ropes, which are as thin as 8 mm, could pass as a single rope for children.

SUM is a new belay device covering ropes down to 9.1 mm. (Optional depending on Banner deal)

Three Point Anchor

The following illustration shows a three point anchor which usually requires at least a 20’ length of 7mm climbing rope tied end to end. Three point anchors are often a minimum, unless there are bolts, in which case two is considered acceptable. The three point redundancy lowers complete failure risk.

The rope is passed through each piece of protection and then loops are pulled down equally. An overhand knot is tied (or figure eight if enough rope) and a locking carabineer clipped through the three strands. The system can withstand two pieces failing. Not shown is a fourth piece, connected to the carabineer, preventing an upward pull thereby keeping the belayer in place. It may be necessary to extend individual anchor points to accommodate features.

Destinations

Iceland – Tom Grossman

Here are some links to those interested in Icelandic climbing:

Icelandic Alpine Club:

http://www.isalp.is/english.php

An Icelandic mountaineering guide:

http://www.outdoors.is/mountaineering

Information about Hnappavellir:

http://www.outdoors.is/rock-climbing-areas

The Hnappavellir general area includes Europe's largest glacier and Iceland's highest mountain; so well worth visiting independent of rock climbing.

Incidents

“It is better to be careful 100 times than to get killed once.” Mark Twain

Everest, NPL – Frank Ziebarth – May 21, 2009

Frank Ziebarth, a 29-year-old Calgary climber, reached the peak of Mt. Everest and was on his way down the mountain. Mr. Ziebarth, was found at 8,700 metres on May 21.

He had ascended the 8,848 metres of Everest's Tibetan side without supplementary oxygen, a plan he'd been working on for three years. Mr. Ziebarth was found exhausted and confused just below the peak, his hat and mitts tossed aside, clues that he was suffering from hypothermia and a lack of oxygen.

Manuel Pizarro sat in the snow with the dying man for about two hours, trying to convince him to get up and complete the descent. He couldn't carry him.

Mr. Ziebarth's body will stay on the mountain, along with the remains of more than 200 climbers who died on Everest over the years. Frank believed that if you climb a mountain you need to do it without technology: No satellite phone, no computer and no oxygen.

Lhotse, NPL - Sergey Samoilov – May 27, 2009

Sergei Samoilov, who was part of a Kazakhstani expedition attempting to negotiate the Lhotse-Everest traverse in the Himalayas, has died.

A group of Sherpas were going to carry Sergey Samoilov’s body to Camp 2 for temporary burial and in the fall, after the monsoon season, an attempt will be made to retrieve the body.

Makalu, NPL – Matt Johnston – June 4, 2009

A TOP mountaineer from Melbourne has died after scaling the world's fifth highest peak without oxygen.

Mick Parker, 36, reached the summit of the 8462m Makalu in Nepal on May 21 before fighting his way back to Kathmandu suffering oedema - a build-up of fluid under the skin.

After blacking out several times during the journey, Mr Parker was found dead by his landlord in Kathmandu last Thursday. He had summited Makalu together with British Roland Hunter on May 21st. “The results of the post-mortem indicate his death was a combination of exhaustion, some lingering effects of HAPE and alcohol,” Mick’s climbing mate Roland Hunter told ExplorersWeb.

Described by friends and family as a free-spirited and lovable man, Mr Parker scaled five peaks above 8000m - all without oxygen or Sherpas.

A graphic designer from Warrandyte, he led Australian Army Alpine Association climbers to negotiate some of the world's most treacherous mountains.

He tried to conquer another eight mountains above 8000m, including Mt Everest, where he was forced back from the dangerous North Face because of bad weather.

Bruce Parker said his son was a dedicated climber who looked out for others in his team and was always testing his limits.

"He was the only Australian I know still climbing who has never used oxygen over 8000m," Mr Parker said. "He just loved climbing. He used to shun the limelight but . . . he should be recognized even if it's after his life. He was a very proud Australian."

Bruce Parker recounted the time his son climbed Gasherbrum in Pakistan with the Army Alpine Association.

Bad weather stopped the group high on the mountain, but Mr Parker pushed on alone before losing his ice pick over the edge. He returned to the group, borrowed a pick and eventually reached the top.

Friend Zac Zaharias said he was a very popular climber. "He was a very strong climber and he was a very kind and generous person," he said. He said Mr Parker had emailed to say he had conquered Makalu and spoke of tackling Mt Everest again.

Snowdon, GBP – Saved by Lighter – February, 2009

A climber trapped on a mountain was saved after the flame from his cigarette lighter was spotted by a helicopter eight miles away. The rescue crew used night vision goggles to spot the flicker after the man had plunged 370ft in the snow. He was picked up and and flown to hospital for treatment, miraculously escaping with just cuts and bruises.

Clogwyn Coch in North Wales above, where the climber plunged 370ft but managed to cling to an icy ledge

The 25-year-old managed to use his mobile phone to phone friends to say he was still alive - but clinging to an icy mountain ledge. A crew member said: 'He had flicked the lighter so that he might be spotted, and the flame was just enough to be seen through our night vision goggles.'

The alarm had been raised on Saturday night when two men and two women were reported to have plunged from Clogwyn Coch in North Wales. One of them fell 1,000ft but remarkably was found alive, lying in the snow.

When members of Llanberis mountain rescue team got to the scene they discovered he was only 30 yards from a dead walker, the victim of an entirely separate and unknown accident.

Police said the man who died was 27, from Shrewsbury, and had been on a lone weekend walking expedition.

The seriously injured man, 25, was checked by the helicopter winch man and paramedic then flown to hospital at Bangor. Later he was transferred to Broad Green Hospital, Liverpool.

He and the dead walker were lying close to where two brothers from the West Country had died a week earlier after falling from Clogwyn Coch, a pathway near the frozen railway track which has claimed many lives in the past.

The helicopter was involved in a four and a half hour operation, hovering only 20ft from the cliff face enveloped in snow cloud, where it ferried 18 members of the rescue team and three ice climbers, who had helped a total of 25 in all, off the 3,560ft peak.

Ian Henderson of Llanberis mountain rescue team said it was 'sad and frustrating' that people had not heeded warnings. There are layers of snow and ice on the peak, making conditions deadly for the unwary and ill-equipped. Mr Henderson said : 'No one should be on the mountain without crampons and an ice axe, and unless they know what they are doing.'

At the same time a few miles away members of the Ogwen mountain rescue team helped to safety a man of 53 from Windsor who had fallen 200ft down a snow gully at Bristley Ridge, in the Glyder range. He was with a party of three men. 'They were not equipped for winter mountaineering,' said team spokesman Chris Lloyd.

A young woman had to be helped off Cwm Idwal peak with a suspected broken ankle.

Snowdon, GBP – Chris & James McCallion – Feb. 2009

Two brothers died when they fell 660ft from a mountain in ferocious weather conditions, an inquest heard today.

Experienced walkers Christopher McCallion, 29, and his brother James, 35, had failed to pack the correct equipment when they climbed Mount Snowdon last February, a coroner was told.

The brothers, who scaled the mountain on several occasions before their fatal accident, are thought to have slipped or been blown over by winds of up to 100mph.

They slid for 330ft down an ice sheet before tumbling the same distance again from a cliff edge, a mountain rescue volunteer said.

Christopher, an operations manager from Severn Beach, Bristol, and James, a self employed builder from Weston-super-Mare, Somerset, both suffered multiple injuries and died instantly.

North West Wales deputy coroner Nicola Jones was told the brothers left their homes on Saturday, February 1, for a weekend of walking and camping. When they failed to return home or answer their mobile phones on the evening of the following day, worried relatives reported them missing.

The Llanberis and Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue Teams (MRT) joined forces with North Wales Police and RAF Squadron 22 to mount a major search operation on the Monday morning.

Giving evidence to the inquest in Caernarfon, Elfyn Jones, chairman of Llanberis MRT described the weather as “atrocious”. He said visibility was so poor and wind speed was so high the RAF helicopter search had to be abandoned after around one hour.

The hunt for the men continued on the ground which was covered in thick snow and large patches of ice. Mr Jones added: “Weather conditions were extremely ferocious. Temperatures did not rise above minus five degrees centigrade and average wind speed was between 50 and 60mph. “Some gusts were in excess of 100mph.”

Mr Jones said the brothers’ bodies were found at the foot of Clogwyn Coch, a notorious danger point on the treacherous mountain.

He described their footwear as “walking boots, not mountaineering boots”. He added there was no evidence of ice axes or climbing crampons being used.

Mr Jones said: “This was a well known and potentially dangerous location.

“It is difficult to establish exactly what led to this tragedy. “I have speculated that they were traversing the slope when they were carried over by a severe gust of wind or slipped and fell 100 metres down the slope.

“They would have been unable to arrest the slide and then tumbled 100 metres over the edge. “Had they had ice axes or crampons they may never have slipped, or they may have been able to arrest the fall.”

Pathologist Doctor Tony Caslia, of Bangor Hospital, said the men suffered extensive injuries. He told the coroner the cause of death for both brothers was a fractured skull.

Ms Jones recorded an accidental death verdict for both men and said: “They were physically fit and experienced walkers who went up the mountain on that Saturday morning in heavy snow and ice, with very strong winds and in cold temperatures.

“It is most likely the brothers were descending the mountain when the accident occurred. “I have heard that they did not have ice axes or crampons. This equipment could have saved their lives but we will never know.”

After the hearing James and Christopher’s brother, Tom McCallion, said their deaths had been “absolutely devastating” for the family. Mr McCallion, 29, a corporal in the Royal Engineers, paid tribute to the efforts of the mountain rescue team. He said: “All the family want to thank the Mountain Rescue Teams for everything they did.

“James and Christopher were just keen walkers who went away for a camping weekend.

“They had been up Snowdon many times before. Normally, I would have been with them but I had to work that weekend.”

Mr McCallion said he and four army colleagues are planning to raise money for the MRT by embarking on the Three Peaks Challenge next month. The effort will see him climb Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon in 24 hours.

Stanley, GBP – Debated Using Helmet – May 28, 2009

Peter Holder fell 60ft headfirst. Friends watched him lose his footing.

The 18-year-old climber survived the fall. After spending three days in hospital recovering from mild amnesia and a concussion, he spoke of his survival.

'The first thing I remember the doctor saying to me was 'You should be dead mate'.

Peter remembers very little about the accident. He was climbing near Causey Arch in Stanley, County Durham. After stopping on a ledge he reached up to climb further up the rock face. 'He tried reaching up twice and failed,' said his friend Adam Rawlings, 22, an outdoor instructor, who was on crutches and was watching from the top. 'The third time he really went for it and grabbed onto the rock but his right foot slipped. 'He started falling and would normally have stopped when the rope tensed and held him up.

'But the metal clasp in the rock that was holding the rope gave way. I heard an unmistakable 'ping' sound as it popped out of the rock.

'Peter looked up at me. He had known the risk and he knew what the consequences would likely be if he fell. 'I will never forget the sound he made when he hit the ground. The was a deathly thud and then silence. 'I have seen people fall before but because this was my friend it was the worst thing I have ever seen in climbing.' Peter survived unscathed after falling 60ft onto rocks and landing on his head

He shouted down to a climber at the bottom of the rock face to call 999 [GBR].

'I had to crawl to the bottom of the cliff because of my injury,' added Mr Rawlings. 'As I was going down I was sure that he would be dead. 'Unbelievably when I got to the bottom he was already awake. He didn't know where he was or what he had been doing.

'I couldn't believe he was alive let alone awake. Its a miracle he survived.'

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Peter, who was wearing a helmet when he fell, was airlifted to Newcastle General Hospital where he spent the next three days recovering. He had been told to spend the next few weeks resting but has not suffered any lasting damage.

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'I feel so lucky that I survived unscathed,' he said. 'I can't explain it. I was out of hospital in three days and I'm fine now. 'I don't actually remember much about the fall. I remember being at the top of the cliff and my next memory is being in the helicopter going to hospital. 'I suffered some mild amnesia afterwards and could be told something and would have forgotten all about it a few minutes later.'

Peter, from Washington, Tyne and Wear, said he had been climbing for eight years and had been debating using a helmet on the day he fell.

Peter and a friend will raise money for the Great North Ambulance by taking part in the Coast to Coast ride on a unicycle from Whitehaven to Sunderland.

Chamonix, FRA – Karine Ruby – May 29, 2009

Karine Ruby, an Olympic snowboarding champion, died Friday in a climbing accident on France's Mont Blanc. She was 31.

Ruby was roped to other climbers when she and some members of the group fell into a deep crack in the glacier on the way down the mountain, Chamonix police official Laurent Sayssac said.

A 38-year-old man from the Paris region died in the fall, and a 27-year-old man was evacuated by helicopter with serious injuries and hospitalized, Sayssac added.

Ruby won a gold medal in the giant slalom at the 1998 Nagano Olympics and a silver in the parallel giant slalom at the 2002 Salt Lake City Games. She was a six-time world champion with 65 snowboard World Cup victories.

Karine had been training to become a mountain guide

Denali, AK – John Mislow & Andrew Swanson- June 11, 2009

Dr. John Mislow, age 39, was roped to Dr. Andrew Swanson, age 36, when they fell. Both were killed. A helicopter recovered their bodies.

They fell in the Messner Couloir from approximately 16,500’ to 14,500’.

Both victims were skilled mountaineers; In 2000, these doctors received the Denali Pro Award, for self-sufficiency and assisting fellow climbers.

From the NPS 2000 Denali Mountaineering Summary:

The Denali Pro lapel pin was presented this season to over 70 individuals. The Pro Pin recognizes climbers, mountain guides, pilots, and volunteers who selflessly assisted our mountain operations whether on the mountain or in Talkeetna. The mountaineering rangers nominate a climber or an expedition out of these pin recipients to be given the annual Denali Pro Award. This award reflects the highest standards in the sport for safety, self-sufficiency, assisting other mountaineers, and “no impact” expeditions.

For three years, the National Park Service and its partner, Pigeon Mountain Industries (PMI), a climbing equipment manufacturer, have presented this award and the lapel pins. The recipients of the 2000-year Pro Pin award are John Mislow and Andrew Swanson of the Chicago West Rib expedition.

Mislow and Swanson assisted several expeditions which were having difficulties. They built camps and retrieved caches for these expeditions. In addition, they assisted the National Park Service with several jobs that resulted in better visitor protection. Mislow and Swanson wanded a route up the West Rib cutoff route. Wanding the trail is an important mission because the trail aids climbers in finding their way from the West Rib route to the 14,200-foot basin during poor weather.

During the 14,200-foot camp insertion in April, a cargo net was accidentally dropped from 50 feet in the air. This accident posed a problem for the mountaineering rangers regarding storage of supplies, and more pressingly, the ability to get the damaged equipment functioning. Mislow and Swanson spent a day building an igloo that was used to store the supplies.

They also assisted the NPS in wiring the electrical system for the 14,200- foot ranger camp that is used to provide communications. While Mislow and Swanson were climbing they made an excellent attempt on the West Rib route reaching the high camp. They waited patiently for improved weather but were eventually forced to abandon the summit. They demonstrated good judgment and risk assessment.

Although Mislow and Swanson did not participate in any rescues, their good humor, selfless behavior and respect for the mountain earned them this award.

Denali, AK - Tatsuro Yamada, Yuto Inoue – May 25, 2009

Searchers have found the bodies of two Japanese climbers a year after they disappeared on Alaska's Mount McKinley, thanks to high-resolution images captured during a recent search for another missing climber, park officials said Friday.

The frozen bodies of 27-year-old Tatsuro Yamada of Saitama-Ken, Japan, and 24-year-old Yuto Inoue of Tokyo were found on May 25. They were connected by a rope at the 19,800-foot level of the 20,320-foot mountain, which is North America's tallest peak. National Park spokeswoman Kris Fister said the bodies will not be recovered because of the risk involved in the extremely steep and rocky location.

The men vanished May 22, 2008, during an attempt to climb to the summit by way of the Cassin Ridge of the mountain, which is located in Denali National Park and Preserve.

National Park officials said the photographs were taken during the search last month for 41-year-old Gerald Myers, a chiropractor from Centennial, Colo. Myers was last seen May 19 after he left his climbing partners at 14,200 feet to make a solo attempt to summit the mountain. His body has not been found.

In last year's search for the Japanese men, crews took more than 3,000 photos, which helped find tracks and other markings, but not the climbers. In the search for Myers, a more advanced camera with a higher powered lens was used. Photographs analyzed May 24 showed what appeared to be two partially buried figures.

Searchers the next day hovered near the area by helicopter. Park spokeswoman Kris Fister said the bodies were identified by the clothing, equipment and area. "There have been no other missing climbers in that part of the terrain.”

Half Dome, CA – Manoj Kumar - June 13, 2009

Manoj Kumar, 40, fell and died on Half Dome. He fell to the shoulder of the dome from an approximate height of 100’. He leaves behind a wife and 10-year-old son.

Manoj was using the cables. The weather was overcast, cold, and there were periods of hail, making for slippery conditions. The death was witnessed by as many as thirty others on the route. Rangers spent Saturday evening evacuating over forty hikers from the summit. Many did not reach the valley until 2:00 am Sunday.

Half Dome, CA – June 6, 2009

A Half Dome hiker fell from the summit cables during inclement weather and sustained critical injuries. A coordinated air and ground rescue response succeeded in evacuating the patient to definitive care in time to save her life. The Half Dome Cables are extremely slick and dangerous during wet weather. The cables are also highly prone to lightening strikes. Do not attempt the Half Dome Cables when wet or stormy.

069_DownTheCables

Estes Park, CO – Four Rescued – June 10, 2009

Four people roped together as they descended a steep snow slope were injured in Rocky Mountain National Park on Tuesday, park spokeswoman Kyle Patterson said.

The accident, which involved three members of a family — a father, his daughter and son — and a guide from the Colorado Mountain School, occurred about 2½ miles from the Bear Lake Trailhead.

The first person in the group lost his footing, causing the rest of the group to tumble about 300 to 400 feet. They were unable to stop their fall until they hit the rocks at the bottom of a deep gully, Patterson said. Rangers were notified by cellphone of the fall around 2:15 p.m. Tuesday. The first rescuers reached the climbers at about 4 p.m.

The most seriously injured were carried out on litters. Steve Johnson, 40, the Colorado Mountain School guide from Boulder, suffered a broken leg, and a 15-year-old juvenile from Greenwood Village suffered deep bruises to the neck.

The other two climbers suffered bumps, bruises and strains, said Patterson. The 15-year-old was taken by ambulance to Estes Park Medical Center and released Wednesday morning. Friends took Johnson to the medical center, where he was treated and released late Tuesday night. Patterson said the rescue involved 30 park staff and Larimer County Search and Rescue personnel.

Bridgewater, NJ – Broken Femur – May 30, 2009

A climber who fell off a cliff at White Rock Park and suffered a broken upper leg bone was listed in good condition Monday, thanks to a friend who fashioned a makeshift splint and a half-dozen rescue personnel who pulled him to safety.

John Retsis, 20, of Raritan Borough sustained multiple fractures to his left femur when he fell some 20 feet and landed feet first on a sloped wooded area at approximately 7:15 p.m. Sunday.

His fellow climber, 21-year-old township resident David Smalley, who was climbing alongside Retsis, hurried down the cliff and jumped off to help his friend, who was going into shock and turning pale.

Smalley, who participated in Boy Scouts and wants to practice physical therapy, said he fashioned a splint for Retsis with sticks, a belt, string from a chalk bag and a T-shirt, securing the brace in three places.

He also was able to get a woman to call 911 and report the incident, which occurred in the section of the park that overlooks the Stavola quarry, according to police.

As township police officers Joseph Dolinski and Randy Pelley were being led to the scene, members of the Martinsville and Green Knoll rescue squads began arriving, as well as the Martinsville Volunteer Fire Department and Somerset Medical Center's Mobile Intensive Care Unit.

Dolinski, the reporting officer, said Pelley, rescue personnel and a park ranger stayed with Retsis as Martinsville Rescue Squad Capt. Peter Mone, while en route, arranged for Somerville's Technical Rescue Team to respond.

"Access to the victim's position could only be gained by traversing a very steep and precarious path and a conventional rescue would have been impossible," Dolinski wrote in a police report.

Somerville Rescue Squad Chief Steve Weinman said the high-angle rescue effort included the deployment of three rope rescue technicians who rappelled some 30 feet from an observation deck until they hit some somewhat solid ground and could get over to the angled area on which Retsis landed.

In all, six rescuers were attending to Retsis, who eventually was secured onto a stretcher known as a Stokes basket that was lifted up the rock face to the observation area, where a dozen rescue personnel were overseeing the ropes and pulleys, Weinman said. Police said Retsis was pulled to safety at about 10 p.m.

Retsis was taken by ambulance to Robert Wood Johnson University Hospital in New Brunswick, where he underwent surgery, Smalley said. A hospital spokeswoman said Retsis was listed in good condition Monday afternoon.

"I think the efforts between all of the teams that came together kind of really made for a really seamless, very safe rescue of this guy," Weinman said.

Smalley said he and Retsis were near the beginning of their free climb — using only chalk and climbing shoes — when Retsis fell. Smalley, who has been climbing for about three months, said Retsis is even less experienced but is "really into that type of climbing," at least in part due to the adrenaline rush.

Smalley said the incident can serve as a "reminder to make sure you're being safe." "Just don't do something like that on your own," he said.

By BRANDON LAUSCH • GANNETT NEW JERSEY • June 1, 2009

Santa Fe, NM – Andy Tingwall, Megumi Yamamoto - June, 2009

SANTA FE, N.M. - The pilot of a state police helicopter and the student hiker he was rescuing were killed when the aircraft crashed on a snowy mountain near Santa Fe, officials said Thursday.

Sgt. Andy Tingwall perished after retrieving lost hiker Megumi Yamamoto when the chopper struck the side of a mountain Tuesday night in rough weather, state Police Chief Faron Segotta said.

Yamamoto, a University of New Mexico physics graduate student from Tokyo, was also confirmed dead earlier Thursday after rescuers reached the bodies, both of which were found about 30 yards from the downed copter's fuselage.

The only other person aboard, state police officer Wesley Cox, sustained serious leg injuries but managed to reach safety Wednesday. Segotta said he'd flown many times with Tingwall, an experienced pilot who was effusive about his love for the job. Tingwall would sometimes reach over and clasp the chief's arm when the two men flew together.

"He'd say .... 'I've got the best job in the world,'" Segotta recalled.

Yamamoto, a native of Japan, has been in the United States since 2003, but had been at the university only since January, according to Ivan Deutsch, one of her professors. He described her as a quiet student who was just beginning her graduate work.

"It's a horrific story, so we're all extremely saddened here in the department," he said.

Rescue efforts had been hampered by snow, low clouds and wind Wednesday. But the weather broke Thursday, allowing Black Hawk helicopters to airlift searchers as close as they could to the wreckage to look for Yamamoto and Tingwall.

Just before smashing into the mountain Tuesday night, the sleek police copter, designed for just such high-altitude rescue missions, picked up Yamamoto after she become stranded while hiking.

Tingwall did a tremendous job piloting the craft in the Tuesday night squall that blew in during the rescue mission in 12,000-foot mountains, State Police Chief Faron Segotta said. With the understanding that they had no time to waste, Tingwall and Officer Wesley Cox landed, carried the exhausted Yamamoto to the craft, then took off, Segotta said at a Thursday afternoon news conference.

But as they lifted off the ground, the chopper's tail rotor apparently clipped a tree, causing it to crash and tumble down the slope, he said. "Everything went to hell within literally seconds," Department of Public Safety Secretary John Denko said.

Tingwall and Yamamoto were ejected from the helicopter while Cox remained strapped in the fuselage as it rolled. Cox survived probably because he wasn't ejected, Denko said. It was unclear why the other two were thrown from the craft, since they were belted in.

Cox's right leg was crushed, his back injured. Soon, hypothermia set in. He hunkered down for the night inside the downed chopper with his pilot within earshot. Through the night, Tingwall and Cox alternately called out to each other.

Cox spent Tuesday night in the fuselage of the helicopter and managed to walk about a mile with a fractured ankle and back and leg injuries, before he encountered rescuers on Wednesday. Segotta credited Cox's youth - he's 29 - and his will to survive.

Authorities spent the rest of Wednesday searching the mountains near the crash for signs of the pilot and Yamamoto, who had been camping with a boyfriend, also a student at the university.

Late Wednesday, two crews located the helicopter's fuselage and other debris that had been scattered down the mountainside. The chief said the debris field stretched about 800 feet in steep terrain.

The crash occurred northeast of Baldy peak in the Santa Fe Mountains, at about 12,000 feet, officials said. A crew of 18 people hiked through the night in an effort to reach the lower end of the debris field.

Segotta said information about the crash and details of the frightening night on the mountain came from Cox, 29, who remained hospitalized with a back injury, possibly a fracture, and a "seriously crushed" right leg, according to the chief. He also said Cox has some internal bleeding.

Tingwall, of Santa Fe, had radioed in his last radio transmission Tuesday night that he had hit the mountain. Tingwall's wife, Leighann, is a dispatcher for the state police and was working during the hiker rescue operation, Segotta said. When it became clear the chopper was in trouble, another dispatcher took over, officials said. The couple has two young daughters.

Segotta said three campers near Lake Stewart saw the helicopter take off and fly around the north side of the mountain, then heard its rotors rev to a high pitch. They then saw a flash of light and heard the crash, he said. The helicopter may have crashed into the mountainside after the tail rotor hit something and subsequently failed to gain enough altitude to negotiate a safe landing, he said.

Mount Gongga, CHN – Three Missing -May 20, 2009

Wade Johnson and two mountain climbers from Colorado haven't been heard from since May 20. His parents are trying to arrange a search.

A filmmaker from the Twin Cities and two other mountain climbers in China haven't been heard from for at least two weeks, and his parents are trying to stage a private helicopter search into the nation's rugged central interior in hopes of finding the three.

Wade Johnson, 24 and a 2007 Carleton College graduate who is from Arden Hills, went to Mount Edgar in China's Sichuan Province as part of an expedition, Johnson's parents said in an e-mail to friends that details their son's plight at the 21,712-foot mountain.

"Our son and the two climbers are three days overdue, and there is no information about their whereabouts," father Bruce Johnson said in a telephone interview Thursday afternoon. The couple have since declined to answer further questions.

The Johnsons on Thursday also requested that Carleton use its overseas connections to help locate their son, a school spokesman said.

Sender Films' Nick Rosen said Thursday that Wade Johnson and climbers Micah Dash and Jonny Copp, both from Boulder, Colo., were last heard from on May 20. They were to board a plane in China on Tuesday and return home Wednesday, Rosen said. The three did not make their flight, he said.

The body of an American mountain climber has been found after an avalanche in an isolated part of southwestern China, the official Xinhua News Agency said Saturday. The report did not identify whose body had been found.

Rescue workers were still searching for two other American members of the group who went missing on Mount Gongga in Sichuan province, Li Zhixin, an official with the Chinese Mountaineering Association, told Xinhua.

Dear friends, 6/5/09 As you all know by now, Jonny Copp, Micah Dash and Wade Johnson are missing on Mt Edgar in China and we are working on a multi-pronged search and rescue operation. The support for this operation has been unbelievable, and I can’t thank those of you enough who have contributed by offering connections, resources, emotional support and, most importantly, financial support. These three guys have given so much to the climbing community in so many ways: their dedication to pushing the barriers of the sport on rock and in alpine terrain; their extensive community outreach through slide presentations and film festivals; their work with clothing and gear companies in designing and promoting cutting-edge equipment; and their dedication to capturing the most inspiring photos and footage from the most extreme places on earth.

Their lives have been dedicated to one thing: a celebration of climbing. And when you give as much to the climbing community as they have, I now see that the community gives back. In spades. I wanted to share with you a few small examples of gestures performed in the last day alone: • At midnight last night, a notoriously impoverished local climber – and good friend of the team – showed up at search headquarters, threw his passport on the table and said that for the first time in his life he has two thousand dollars to his name, and he wants to spend it on a flight to Chengdu to be one of the first Americans on the ground to help out with the search. • This morning at 9 AM, a guiding client of Micah’s wired $25,000 to search headquarters to make sure the search did not slow down due to a financial bog-down. • Companies who compete with the sponsors of these athletes are paying for their own athletes with Chinese visas to get to get to China as quickly as possible. • People have offered up the 65,000 frequent flyer miles needed on United to get to China. • Senators have pressured the Chinese embassy to expedite visas for American search volunteers. The list goes on.

This is an expensive operation that will cost well into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. But there is every reason to believe that these guys are alive and trapped only a few hours from base camp. While there is hope, there is life. We need to do all we can to get people on the ground quickly, to get a helicopter in the air, and to keep communication flowing. If these guys ever gave anything to your life, or ever inspired you in any way, now would be the time to give them something back. As climbers, we are one big family and it is amazing to see how we look out for each other.

TO DONATE PLEASE GO TO: http://www.adventurefilm.org/blogs/adventure_blog.aspx

June 7, 2009, Boulder, CO—The body found in avalanche debris at 4000 meters on Mount Edgar (6818 meters/22,368 feet), China, has been positively identified as Jonathan “Jonny” Copp, age 35 of Boulder, CO.

Jonny was one of three American climbers on the expedition. The search continues for the other two, Micah Dash (age 32), and Wade Johnson (age 24).

The first team of American climbers, Eric Decaria and Nick Martino, have landed in China and should arrive in base camp Monday to coordinate search efforts with the Chinese team already in place. A second team of American climbers, Peter Takeda and Steven Su, are en route to China.

“We are deeply grateful to the Chinese climbers and rescue workers who have been doing everything possible on the ground to carry out the search,” says Shurr.

A blog with up-to-date information and a fund to help assist in search and rescue efforts have been set up at http://adventurefilm.org/

Mount Gongga, CHN – Jonny Copp – May 20, 2009

Jonny Copp was born into a life of adventure to Phyllis and John Copp in Singapore in 1974. When Jonny was an infant, the family traveled the world together in a truck with a pop-up camper. After the family settled in Fullerton, CA, Jonny could often be found with friends exploring the desert around Joshua Tree National Park.

It was there that he first discovered the joy of rock climbing and spending time with friends outdoors – climbing at first with an electrician’s harness and a nylon towrope from his dad’s garage. Over the years he sharpened his skills as a climber and became one of the best in the world. He was a sponsored climber for many well respected companies and in 2008, he was chosen as an ambassador for Patagonia (the company). He excelled in all types of climbing and was known worldwide for his cutting edge first ascents the steepest walls and mountains around the world, including an unheard of trifecta in Pakistan’s Trango Valley with Mike Pennings and a first ascent on Patagonia’s Poincenot with Dylan Taylor. Jonny inspired people in so many ways beyond his climbing. His award-winning photography, writing and film footage have been featured in magazines, books and movies -- leaving the rest of us with rare impressions of life on alpine walls.

In 2005, Jonny founded the internationally acclaimed Adventure Film Festival, based in Boulder CO, where he and long time friend Mark Reiner created a global platform of exposure for adventure filmmakers, with shows in Boulder, across the U.S. and on three other continents. Jonny graduated in 1997 with a B.S. in Geography from the University of Colorado.

Jonny believed that the summit meant something, but that ascent style was everything. He’s been the recipient of many grants to fund explorations and pursued climbing in the same manner that he lived the rest of his life—with vigor and passion. He was a hero and a cornerstone in the climbing community, inspiring people daily. Jonny was known for engaging with everyone he encountered—greeting all he knew with a ready smile and a hug. He was the embodiment of the Golden Rule, a larger-than-life legend and will be deeply missed.

AWARDS RECEIVED

Mugs Stump Award for Kangro Karpi's Dojitsenga, Tibet (2008)

Shipton Tilman Grant for Shaffat Valley Expedition, Kashmir (2007)

Polartec Challenge Award for project in Indian Himalaya (2003)

Shipton Tilman Grant for Project in Indian Himalaya (2003)

Mugs Stump Grant for Argentine Patagonia (2002)

American Alpine Club Award for Climbing Achievement (2000)

Lyman Spitzer Award/Grant for projects in Pakistan (2000)

American Youth Climbing Grant for projects in Pakistan (1999)

A FEW NOTABLE ASCENTS

First Ascent of the Shafat Fortress, Kashmir India

First Ascent of SE. Face of Cerro Mascara, Torres Del Paine, Chilean Patagonia

First Free Ascent (and one day) of the Original Route on Mt. Proboscis, Canada

First Alpine Style ascent of grade VII, Shipton Spire, Karakoram, Pakistan

52 Hour Three Tower Link-up: Exupery – Inominata – Poincenot, Patagonia

First Ascent of Southern Cross, Poincenot, Argentine Patagonia

First Ascent of Mt. Andrews (Going Monk), Alaska Range, AK

First Ascent of Armageddon on W. Face of the N. Howser Tower, Bugaboos, CNDA

First Free Ascent of the Austrian Route, St. Exupery, Patagonia

First Ascent of the Cat’s Ear Spire, Karakoram, Pakistan

First Ascent of Pecking Order, Parrot Beak Peak, Cirque of the Unclimbables, Canada

Winter Speed Record Diamond, Longs Peak, Colorado

Fitzroy, Argentina, Patagonia

Eiger North Face, Switzerland

Mount Gongga, CHN – Micah Dash, May 20, 2009

Micah Dash, 32, was born to Anita and Eric Dash of Lancaster, California. His passion for the outdoors began with his involvement as a competitive ski racer and he cut his teeth in the mountains backpacking with his father in the Sierras of California. After high school Micah moved to Leadville, Colorado where he started technical climbing and courses in guiding skills at Colorado Mountain College’s Outdoor Leadership Program.

This led to a job instructing for Pacific Crest Outward Bound of the Sierras and then to a position with the prestigious Yosemite Search and Rescue team, during which time he developed world class climbing skills. He took these skills abroad to the great mountain ranges of the world, where he completed major expeditions, all while finishing a B.A. in History at University of Colorado at Boulder, CO.

As a professional athlete for Mountain Hardwear, his cutting edge ascents around the world include: Pakistan’s Cat’s Ear Spire with Eric Decaria; the first ascent of the Shaffat Fortress in Kashmir, India with Jonny Copp; a free ascent of El Cap with Matt Segal, and the first free ascent of Nalumasortoq in Greenland with Thad Friday.

Micah’s uncompromising passion for his family and friends is matched only by his love for climbing. His indomitable spirit for adventure and amazing perseverance have molded his careers as a professional climber and inspirational speaker. Micah is born showman -- equally comfortable holding court in front of thousands at mountain festivals as he is with a few friends around a campfire.

His renowned self-deprecating sense of humor and constant comic relief are well known, even in the face of life threatening situations. He has referred to himself as the Woody Allen of alpine climbing, and once said of an uncomfortable bivouac on a wall, “I’ve worn yarmakas bigger than this bivy ledge.” Micah would gladly give the shirt off his back to his friends and family, as well as eat all the carrots in their fridge without asking. He is deeply loved and his powerful personality is an inspiration to so many around the world.

Mount Gongga, CHN – Wade Bruce Johnson – May 20, 2009

Wade Johnson, 24, of Arden Hills, Minnesota, son of Susan and Bruce Johnson attended St. Paul Academy where he nurtured his intellect and sense of adventure. He participated in the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) and the American Alpine Institute during his years at Carleton College. He spent a semester abroad in Australia, and six weeks exploring the South Island of New Zealand.

His enthusiasm for hiking, rock climbing, mountaineering, and snowboarding is unbounded. At Carleton, he honed his skills and produced his first rock climbing video, earning a minor in film studies. While waiting to start graduate school, Wade applied for a filmmaking internship with Sender Films, in Boulder, CO. In February 2008, he was made Associate Producer and became an invaluable part of the crew, filming and editing day and night. With Sender Films, Wade accompanied Jonny Copp on filming expeditions to the Black Canyon of Colorado, the peaks of Rocky Mountain National Park, Mt. Alberta in the Canadian Rockies, and, most recently, to Western China.

Beyond his passion for the mountains, Wade flourishes in many realms. He is an accomplished classical and jazz pianist and talented ceramic artist. He graduated Phi Beta Kappa from Carleton in 2007 and is scheduled to begin a Ph.D. chemistry program at the University of Washington this fall. In November, he helped supervise a film project about the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. Wade was very moved by the plight of people living in New Orleans, and hopes to use his knowledge of film and chemistry to make a positive impact. Most importantly, Wade has a great sense of humor, a profound compassion for others, cares deeply for his friends, and has made a lasting impression on all of those fortunate enough to know him. His two best friends are Erin Addison, the woman he cherishes, and Greg Larsen, his life-long friend.

Causes

Yosemite Awakening

Stay at Han’s house which is located in the heart of Yosemite National park; thirteen miles to El Capitan Meadow. Link: http://www.hansbasecamp.com/

Rehabilitation

Tahoe Turning Point (non-profit group homes for boys) is sponsoring a peak hiking contest. Send them the short registration form and a $40 donation and then hike (or climb) peaks. Submit a photo to TTP of you on the top and log your climb/hike on the Peak Record. The peaks can be anywhere, not just around here.

Prizes are awarded in November. There are prizes for: Most peaks hiked (total), highest peak, Farthest Peak from South Lake Tahoe, Most Peaks over 10,000, and Best Summit Photo. The prizes last year were substantial and useful (you very well might come out ahead). The donation directly funds gear for outside activities such as climbing gear.

For more information: Danielle: (530) 307-8207, roxnsnow@yahoo.com

Web site: http://www.tahoeturningpoint.org/

Journal Information

To Accumulate and Spread Mountaineering Knowledge

Published by the “California Mountaineering Group”

Library of Congress: “Journal of Mountaineering”

ISSN: 1948-9110 (print) 1948-9129 (online)

Subscriptions, submissions: cmg-owner@yahoogroups.com

Back Issues http://groups.google.com/group/CMGgoogle/web/links

Peer Reviews:

There seems to be no study too fragmented, no hypothesis too trivial, no literature too biased or too egotistical, no design too warped, no methodology too bungled, no presentation of results too inaccurate, too obscure, and too contradictory, no analysis too self-serving, no argument too circular, no conclusions too trifling or too unjustified, and no grammar and syntax too offensive for a paper to end up in print. Mr. Rennie, JAMA

Partial References:

Jensen http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=818390

Pratt

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=861139

Everest fatality

http://www.nationalpost.com/news/story.html?id=1635438

Karen Ruby

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20090529/ap_on_sp_ol/sbd_obit_ruby

Bridgewater – Femur

http://www.app.com/article/20090601/NEWS/90601134/High+drama++Cliff+climber+rescued+after+fall+in+Bridgewater

News

Roberts